Adamw

Your wiring in the .xlsx file appear to be mostly correct, But I think there are potentially 2 small mistakes:As Pin A19 - I think this is just a signal from the igniton switch to tell the ecu that the engine is cranking. This should be connected to a digital input, not an aux output. Pin A7 & A8 (Aux 4) - I think this is actually to control the fuel pump relay, not the main relay. As for the crank and cam sensor not working, my only thought is from the wiring diagram it is not clear which pins are ground and which pins are signal. So it maybe worth trying to swap D5 with D6 and swap D10 with D9 as sometimes you will find the sensor, wiring or factory ecu connects one of those pins to ground.

Yes that is pretty normal, it is due to the the fuel film evaporating from the port walls. Basically the opposite effect causes the lean patch when you open the throttle (if no accel enrichment was implemented). Some ECU's have a wall wetting model or a "decel enleanment" feature to improve it but we dont at this time. I like Shane T's demonstation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTXPF-6M1D0

Injector timing really only has a noticable effect (even then sometimes barely measurable) at injector duty cycles less than about 40%. So for most users with a single injecor per cylinder, injector timing becomes irrelevant above medium load/RPM conditions. In a high output NA engine where you are trying to find every last bit you typically use staged injection to keep DC below 40% at redline. The injector timing will generally trend earlier with increasing RPM (bigger value).

Im not sure how much help I can offer since it is a japan only vehicle we have no info here or wiring diagrams etc. I assume all factory data will be japanese only which may not be very useful to me. If you have a link to a factory wiring diagram please share it and I will take a look to see if I can help. Your attachement "JA4 wiring" isnt available. I will also ask user @Mach if he can maybe offer any help, I know he has a E07Z engine with a Link ECU so maybe he has some advice or knowledge.

Depends what trigger mode and what sync mode you are using. You have given no info. In multittooh mode you will need the cam sesnor as that tells the ECU which tooth on the crank to work from. In missing tooth mode with "cam pulse 1X" sync mode the ecu just checks if a cam pulse occured in the last revolution or not. With nearly any of the modes you can unplug the cam sensor when the engine is running and the ecu can keep track of engine position, it is only when you have a bad signal on the crank as well that it needs the cam again to re sync.

Unfortunately the V series ECU is not really capable of generating the Generic Dash 2 stream, this was something that was only introduced later in G4+. The V series can only send data in a fixed format of 16bit values and has no options to rescale the data that is transmitted. The Generic Dash 2 stream has a mix of 8 bit and 16bit data sent as well as some odd scaling applied to some of the channels. You can try the attached file, I've tried to reproduce the channels that do fit into the V series format so some of the basics should work. RPM, MGP, ECT, Lambda, Gear and a couple of others that probably arent very useful. Cant do IAT, oil temp, oil or fuel press. I think we could make fuel press work but it will read 1/10 of actual. ClioF4R CAN test.pcl

Even though this trim is in the "idle load trims" menu, if you read the help file it says it is actually active all the time the AC clutch is engaged, so your idle conditions shouldnt matter. My feeling is since there is some randomness there is possibly a bug related to the use of the virtual aux for the AC function. As a test can you turn of Virtual aux 1 and try aux 3 assigned directly to AC clutch to see if it is more reliable when set up that way.

Try this one. 1846791508_G4BusaMethanol4Listtyahdonohjaus CAN change.pclr

The trigger mode was designed to have the LH intake cam connected to trig 2, so I would stick with that. It is only a matter of changing those two settings in PC link to match your wiring. It may work the other way but without asking the firmware guys how the sync test is performed in this mode I wouldnt risk it.

You need stable and predictable differential fuel pressure. If you know the regulator is under sized then you need to fix that, you are not going to be able to get a a good tune when the fuel pressure is so poorly controlled. Injector flow is correctly modelled using Bernoulli's equation. Flow change is roughly proportional to the sqaure root of the pressure change. Injector timing isnt really relevant at this stage, but just FYI, at idle and cruise with normal injectors close to the valves, the ideal EOI will usually be around 360-400BTDC. You want the fuel to sit on the back of the hot intake valve for as long as possible to be best vapor in the port.

Also since you mentioned "50/60Hz AC", you need to check your part number is for the solenoid that is designed for 12DC. That spec shows 4 options, 200VAC, 100VAC, 24V DC, 12VDC. Only the 12V DC option will work, the part number should end with *-4.

I can reproduce this by testing on the bench, I suspect there is an un-discovered bug (or one that has long since been forgotten) with the purge function in G4. It wont be fixed since it has been obsolete since 2013. You can acheive the same functionality using a GP output function instead.

It is a V series ECU, I cant tell you if it is a V44 or V88 as that sticker you show is only for the adapter board, not the ecu on top. I dont have easy access to the serial number database for these old ones. But the software you need is VTS, it works with all V series ecus, download from here: https://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784 Once connected you can go to Help>ecu information to see what model ecu you have and confirm it is running the latest firmware etc (V4.10.2 is the last).

Can you attach your tune. The screenshot you attached is for a G4+. The V44 doesnt even have the Generic dash 2 template does it?

You have logged very few channels so cant be sure from that log, but generally if you have an unstable oscilation when the target is stable then the PID is not correct. Most likely needs less P or more D, but you really need to adjust it live while doing step tests to find the right balance between response and stability.

Yeah sorry, I just noticed this is a early Monsoon which didnt have the analog trigger scope, so the data I was looking for was not present. It is going to be hard to diagnose a high RPM trigger error, you really need a standalone scope and some way to do a scope capture at high RPM when the problem occurs. Wasted spark ignition can generate lots of electrical noise, so that would be my first thought where the issue is coming from. Make sure coils are grounded to the cylinder head, make sure spark plugs are resistive type, make sure coils are a genuine OEM and not a cheap clone, make sure coils have the OEM suppressor on the power supply.

Ok, so it sounds like there are some signs of life in that video and it is not too far off running. It looks like you get most action when throttle is wide open? So it could be fouled plugs or too much fuel. I guess it could also be too little fuel and the extra dose of accel fuel when you open the throttle helps. So I agree, try some fresh plugs, and then try adjusting the master fuel up and down by a relatively big chunk to see if it runs longer with more or less fuel.

I can see the effect you are claiming in your log but cant see a reason for it. When I test on the bench the trim always seems to re-activate correctly after the blip has finished. Does it do it for you every time you blip the throttle beyond 45% or does it only happen sometimes? Using the virtual aux for AC clutch is a little odd but it seems to work correctly when I test.

Sounds pretty dead. If you pull a plug do you actually have a spark when cranking? It would also be worth trying a squirt of starter fliud as this can quickly eliminate a fuel issue off the list of possibilities.

The triggerscope shows nothing, it looks like the engine wasnt running when you done that? Can you try again, click the capture button while the engine is idling. One at higher rpm would be useful too. There is no limiter active at all in the log. But your comment "it is sluggish off the limiter" will likely be the decay time, it is quite slow in our default settings. Turn advanced mode on in the limiter settings and try reducing both the decay times to about 100ms.

Please attach your map. You have nothing set up on stream one in your pic above.

Yeah you still only have a cranking RPM of about 90 and batt voltage drops to 8.5V, so still something is not happy there. Does the engine sound very slow cranking? Is it tight to turn over by hand? Otherwise most of the basic nescessities of life appear to be present. But you didnt attach the triggerscope or map.

Please do a trigger scope at idle and attach that along with a copy of your tune here.

You could do something like this: https://www.micropdm.com/ It is a small CAN based controller which can interpret and add all the logic functionality to the standard blink marine keypads. The "PDM" has 7 low current outputs that can be connected to the ECU or directly to switch relays etc, it can send CAN messages to the ecu to turn things on/off without wiring and the buttons can be configured for various functions such as toggle/latch/flash etc. LED colours and functions can be configered too. Another option is the Toucan from JT Innovations. This is a small digital dash that has a virtual keypad on one screen as well as a couple of functions to chage "maps" etc. Another option is the Realdash on an Android head unit or similar, you can have "buttons" on the touch screen to switch things on/off in the ecu. The only CAN keypad I know of that could be used directly with the ecu is the HP Electronik one.

Right click on your existing fuel/ign table in PC Link, the >Import/Export>Import from file.