Adamw

Attach a log of it cranking, a trigger scope, and a copy of your tune. But from what you have written above I would say it is a wiring issue. It should crank somewhere closer to 200RPM and batt voltage dropping to 9V ties in with the low cranking RPM. Assuming the battery and starter are in good condition, then maybe try some jumper leads dirrect from battery to starter to confirm there is a good electrical path to the starter.

You will have to get someone with an oscilloscope to check if there is a signal present at the correct DI pin and that it rises abouve 1.5V and falls beloow 1.0V. What specific ECU do you have and which pin are you connected to?

Geez, trust the french to dream up something so odd. 360deg/44 = 8.18181818 degrees per tooth! Also, that odd long tooth will produce a zero crossing so it is not actually missing two teeth - you will get a single missing tooth, then a zero crossing, then a seconod missing tooth. So it would actually more correctly be described more like 42-1-1-1-1. Oscilloscope capture from google below. This pattern is not currently supported, but I will ask the firmware guys next week if it would be possible.

You can definately set up a custom CAN stream to send an alternaitve parameter in place of one you dont need, but I dont know how much flexability the gauge has in terms of renaming channels and changing units etc. For example there are not really any other channels that use % units that you could use for Secondary DC. Is there a list of channels the banks gauge supports for other ECU's? It may be possible to get what you want by duplicating Haltech/AEM etc. Have you considered the Plex USDM?

I will have to confirm sample rate with engineering as I dont know off the top of my head. There is significant hardware filtering on the analog inputs and the software filtering varies depending on the function selected.

The logged dwell is the actual dwell that was finally applied, not the value that was commanded from the dwell table. If ignition timing or crank speed changes after the ecu has already started charging the coil - then the ecu needs to shorten or stretch dwell to make sure the spark still occurs at the right place. Obviously correct spark angle is far more critical than correct dwell time. In your case it appears to be caused by over aggressive idle ignition timing. So you are constanting changing ignition timing after the dwell event has started. The dwell will probably be bouncing around a lot more than the log shows but at 40Hz you only pick up the occasional occurance. Notice in pic below the dwell spikes are only when the idle ignition is bouncing around. It is totally fine to leave it like this if it idles well, however, I suspect you will possibly get a smoother idle by making the idle ign control less agressive.

Your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, swap the +/- wires on the crank sensor and it should then work.

I dont really know then, a bit hard to guess with no lambda connected. I would definately expect master should normally be bigger for stock injectors so it seems you are getting more fuel than the ecu thinks - maybe the fuel press is higher than normal or the injectors are modified/higher flow? RPM trace is a bit wobbly, is it running on all cylinders?

A master of 15-20ms is about normal for a 500cc injector on an engine with a 500cc cylinder. 9ms would be more typical for a 800-1000cc injector. You only have 2.5ms dwell at cranking now, I suspect that may be too low due to your low battery voltage. Try something more like this so it gets more dwell at cranking speed/voltage:

Yeah I think the stock VSS would be the easiest way out. Any other option is going to need significant fabrication.

Is it still stock injectors? If so I would start by doubling that master fuel number. Ignition dwell time wants to be about half its current settings for running (fine to have more at start up RPM/voltage, but it has way too much when running).

Can you do a short log of it cranking or running if it will. Your battery voltage was only 6.5V with engine running when you saved that map? Maybe start by investigating the missing power supply.

Yes set up instructions are in the help file on the page "Device Specific CAN Information". There is a stream template included in PC Link for it.

A AN volt input is designed for reading a voltage from some device that outputs a voltage. A temp sensor doesnot output a voltage, it is just a variable resistance. So to convert that variable resistance into a variable voltage you need to create a voltage divider circuit. In the automotive world most of us refer to this circuit as a "pull-up resistor" even though that is probably not technically correct. So the difference between AN volt inputs and AN Temp inputs is the AN temps have a pull-up resistors on them (AN T1 &2 have software configurable pull-ups, AN T3 & 4 are fixed 1K pull-ups). To connect a temp sensor to a volt input you will need to add an external 1K pull-up resistor.

Attach a log. Edit: Actually after a quick look, your settings are so far out there is no point doing a log. Please put all your accel settings back to our base map values and then do a log after that. In the pic below the base map values are all in yellow. The other colours are your current settings.

You should have just done it how I told you to do it since there were less wires moved and less chance of mistakes. All of the changes you have made didnt need to be done as I said earlier they only needed the function changed in the software and in the spreadsheet I already listed what to assign the auxes to. The changes you have made should still work, just my aux assignment list will now be wrong.

It sounds like you have probably used up all the tables. There are 45 GP tables available. You can check how many you have used and what they are used for using the table allocation tool at the bottom of the ecu settings tree.

Dont the R33 gear boxes already have an electronic speedo sensor on them?

What trigger mode are you using? Some variations of the 58X engines can have the cam sensor in rotated about 90 deg. The Chev LS2/LS7 (90 offset) mode should work for yours.

What gearbox do you have? There are a few aftermarket electronic pickups that screw onto a speedo cable drive if you have one. Otherwise, a hall sensor picking up of the back of the wheel studs or bolts on the driveshaft flange (diff pinion) is often an easy option.

Trigger looks ok. My instruction is correct as far as I can see. We want to move the sensor ground wire from position 23 and connect it to sensor ground pin which is pin 39. We then want to move the fp speed wire from position 39 to aux 7 which is pin 23. BAP should be set to "Internal". MAP is most likely on pin 42/AN Volt 3. If that doesnt work it could be pin 37/AN Volt 4.

Ok, I think it will have to come back to NZ for repair in that case, it sounds like something must be damaged. Contact [email protected] to arrange.

I have absolutely no experience with Mac but I do know of others using parallels or bootcamp with G4+ ok. Can you give us a screenshot of the hardware ID's like below. To get to this right click on the Link device in device manager, then go to properties>details>hardware ID's.

Im not too sure what you mean by "but the ECU won start". So the Blue LED lights up but do you mean the laptop wont connect to the ECU now? Or just the engine wont start?

I just updated the excel file above to correct that mistake and a couple of others I noticed.