Adamw

There is autotune functionality for fuel but it is really designed for the dyno where you can hold it steady state in a specific cell. No ecu can self tune ignition as you would need some way of measuring torque as feedback. But as I said earlier there is a whole lot of weird stuff set up in your map that is not going to make it easy to tune, it really needs an experienced tuner to put it back to basics. There is a 5D ignition table set up pulling 50 deg timing out under some conditions, controlled by AN volt 2, but who knows what that is connected to.

What throttle body do you have? For the pedal pinout you will have to find an EvoX wiring diagram.

Fixed up your post and moved it to the G4X section. Yes you have a trigger issue, it looks like it is losing sync quite regularly. Can you do a triggerscope at idle, attach that and a copy of your map here. How to do a triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=CbfHgX

If you change firmware back to 6.19 does it then power up reliably again? I have been running 6.20 in one of our test cars for the last 4 weeks or so and it starts reliably (also push button start). Also I have not seen any trouble with power off/on on the test bench over the last few weeks. Several other users outside of Link have also been using 6.20 for several weeks with no reports of this kind of problem. So does it only happen for you if you make a setting change but dont store before powering off?

Although a terminating resistor on both ends of the bus is best practice, I would expect it to work even without one. I just had another look at your dash config and noticed the rate is set a bit odd, can you change that to 1M. I dont know what "default" means and have never seen that option in Motec before. Another good test you can do to confirm data is making it to the dash is a voltmeter test. Unplug the dash and PDM (if you need PDM for power then just pull the CAN H/L wires out of it). With ECU on so it is broadcasting data, measure voltage between ground and CAN H and then ground and CAN L. If they are connected to ecu and there is data coming through and they are correct polarity, you will have a bit above 2.5V on CAN H (typically around 3v) and a bit below 2.5V on CAN L (typically around 2V).

Thats a triggerscope. I want a PC log. >logging>record>. crank engine. >logging>stop. >logging>save log file as.

What do you mean by "the Link Ecu will not start"? Do you mean the engine wont start or the Laptop wont connect? What is the log showing? Is it a power down log or power up log?

Can you do a pc log of it cranking.

Yes it will be converted to suit the hardware you have when you load the map into the ecu. You will still need to go through all the inputs and output setup tho to make sure they are set up to match how your car has been wired.

In that map E-throttle 2 is turned off. Can you turn it on with the same settings as E-throttle 1 and do a short PC log showing the problem. Also, In the runtimes screen, it shows the E-throttle relay on Aux 15 is open circuit (this may not be accurate but worth checking) and it shows 0V on Aux 17/20 supply.

So if you just unplug the CAN 1 plug from the ecu wouldn’t that then mean the dash and pdm are only connected to CAN2? If so, just turn off CAN 1 in the Link software and set up CAN 2 for Transmit generic dash.

Both your dash and ecu CAN set up match so it should work as is. Is the dash wired to CAN2 on the ECU B plug or CAN 1 on the round 6 pin plug? For the stuck injectors, try 12V straight from a battery with a couple of small jumper leads and give them a couple of good taps at the same time.

You can try reducing fuel by reducing your master fuel setting, Although in the map you attached it doesnt look too far off what I would expect for stock injectors. It is worth a try though.

Yes, you will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug to access the CAN bus. The CANPCB cable plugs into the CAN1/RS232 socket inside the case. It will need a groove filed in the case for the cable to pass through.

Tha MAP sensor looks wrong to me, it drops to 9kpa in some areas which I would say is almost impossible for a 30year old engine. Are you sure it is a Link 5 bar map sensor fitted as per your settings? Warm-up enrichment isnt even active in your log so that is irrelevant, although I agreee with essb00, it is a bit odd to have it based on MAP.

I would do the cal table a bit different, see below. The cal table converts the 0.5-4.5V input into "switch positions 1-6". The boost ratio table gives us 0% table 2 in position 1 increasing to 100% table 2 in position 6.

For a dash 2 you will also need the race technology CAN interface. That interface has two CAN wires which connect to the two CAN pins on the ecu connector

I just noticed there is a typo in my text above that you quoted. It should have said Q3 is divide by 8. Each Q divided the previous output in half, so something like this: Q1 = 1/2 Q2 = 1/4 Q3 = 1/8 Q4 = 1/16 Assuming your ECU is a G4+ then the Q3 would do.

G4X is a bit different than G4+ as it doesnt need a power cycle during the update. So the above doesnt realy apply to G4X. I would try removing the ecu from the car and powering the ecu up on the bench and doing the update there. This will eliminate any wiring related noise. To power it up on the bench, the easiest way is to clip 12V on to the stripped end of the big arrel shaped TVS diode and clip gnd onto the other end.

Give us a log of it cranking and attach your map as well. ECU hold power will kill fuel and spark, but it wont stop the triggerscope from showing the signal.

You look like you have everything you need to make it run now. It looks like possibly too much fuel as the start attempt where you had the throttle WOT the RPM picked up like it almost started. What size injectors does it have?

You can also log the parameter “ecu temp”, to get a better feel for what it does in normal use. The max temp in statistics may be heavily influenced by a 1off hot day/event/situation. We test them at 70degC so probably if temp was regularly above that for significant periods in normal use I would start to worry.

Yes, you will need all factory sensors for it to work.

You will need 2 analog inputs for the pedal, 2 analog inputs per throttle body and 2-3 aux outputs per throttle body.

When the engineers are designing a trigger decoder there are many considerations such as factory wiring, difficultly in interpreting the signal, possibilities of errors as cams move due to future machining, chain stretch etc... The HR trigger decoder uses two cams to compliment the crank information for both phase and position to achieve a very quick sync. I believe the crank only needs to rotate a max of 120degs before the ecu has determined engine positon and can fire the correct cylinder. The old VQ35 mode only used one cam and needed up to 360deg to sync.