Adamw

There is a pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration built in, it is expecting about 6600ohm @ 20deg C so that sounds like it is close. Did you try that?

If your tune is password protected then you will have to get the tuner to sort the problem out, if we cant few any settings then we cant help.

Do a short log as well if you can and give us a copy of that. It almost looks like the 5V rail might be overloaded or something.

The ECU has many options for controlling the pump depending on what hardware you go for. Your car should already have a two speed fuel pump control in it from factory. So provided it is not causing you large voltage drop at high pressures I wouldn't bother changing. The reason for varying pump speed is generally to reduce noise at idle/cruise and give full pump speed at higher load. The low/high switch point is user adjustable. There are other options in the software such as 3 speed PWM and fully configurable open loop PWM as well. To do variable speed PWM control you will need a solidstate relay, a pump controller, or a fan controller like your mate. The problem with the fan controllers is they are designed to fail "active" (ie fan on all the time) rather than fail off for safety which the fuel pump controllers are generally designed to so I would consider that before going that way. The Evo fan controllers are well known for failing. There is a ford fuel pump controller that some use but it is only good for about 20A from memory. But be aware you wont really gain much compared to your existing system - maybe a slightly more smooth pressure transition from low speed to high speed but thats about all. The "pump heating the fuel" is really just an old myth if thats what you are thinking, there may be a little heating with extreme fuel systems with 3 high pressure pumps or something, but I certainly see no fuel heating in my car with a walbro 450 in it. From memory I got a couple of degress after an hour or so of pump running. The fuel heating actually mostly comes from the metal fuel rail that is attached to the hot cylinder head and slowing the pump down doesnt change that one bit. Even my injector flow bench which only holds 5L of fuel only gets luke warm after a few hours of testing.

TPS low lock out is active. I suggest set this to 0%.

Nah it doesnt jump out at me as noticably bad, im not saying it couldnt be improved, but it actually looks like it is controlling quite nice. PID control loop tuning is always a balance between response speed, overshoot and control stability. In your last log on the most sudden last pedal press you can see the motor DC was clampoed at the 90% max for about half the movement so that means the ecu it putting full voltage to the motor - it pyhsically cant move any faster. I think more normal battery voltage (~14V) will help a little. You could pull a bit of D out so the "brakes" arent applied as much as it gets close to target - that will tend to increase overshoot, but a little is fine (do your testing from say 5% to 95% TP target otherwise with the blade crashing into the stops at each end you wont actually see the overshoot). You could possibly increase P and I a little which will give more motor DC for longer but it will eventually start to get less stable and you will see too many oscillations before settling on target.

That would be fine.

@Brad Foreman Try your dash config attached. Everything looks correct in the last setup as far as I can see. In this one I have changed the Gear position to use an encoded value rather than just the raw number, lets see if that works. @Sterling Attached below is a .xc1 file. Go to the CAN Protocols builder in RS3 (<>+ icon at top left of RS3), in that screen click import and navigate to this .xc1 file. Once imported close that screen and open your dash config file for editing. Go to the ecu stream tab and click on changhe ecu, in the Link folder you will now have an ecu named "Generic New", select that. When a screen pops up asking to rename channels or whatever uncheck the box that says "use previous names" or similar and click ignore at the bottom. Fix any errors on your display pages and alarms. Save and send the config to the dash. Brad Foreman V2.zconfig LINK_Generic New_@20210104_075506_008240.xc1

Will it let you save a map and take a log?

In G4 most of the operators are shown on the pop up where you enter the value. So to add 15% you just type "+15%". To select more than one cell you shift>arrow. In G4+ selection of multiple cells is a bit easier, you can shift>arrow or click and drag or for the whole table click the top left corner. All the same operators work.

Oh, I just found a trick I missed. You need to set the polarity to low on aux 7 before turning it off - then it should run at 100% all the time.

I think you have a decimal point out, it looks more like 0.05s to me... That is normal. It will get a little faster when battery is charging but it looks pretty ok to me.

You still have errors on CAN 1

The factory ecu uses a 5V pull-up. So the signal should vary between 0-5V with a factory ecu. The Link ECU has a 12V pull-up so I would expect something more like 0-12V when connected to the Link ecu.

I had a quick look over your log. I agree it definately looks like there is some mild knock in the 5000-6000rpm region on at least a couple of cylinders. The easiest test is generally to pull 5deg out of the cells around that area and if the noise levels flatten out then it is a strong suggestion it is knock. The delta threshold is getting tripped more often than it should be and in some places it looks like it is not getting tripped when it needs to be so I think the deltas still need a bit of work. Add these channels to you log will help see what is going on. I will attach some example settings from our 2.0 JDM V11 STI. Im not sure how relevent they will be but it might give you a feel for the trends. There are definately some of these settings I havent experimented with much and probably need more optimising one day but the knock control in this car works well and can be relied on as is. It is a bit erractic at around 2000RPM no matter what I do which is why I have it disabled below 2500. I only use ign trim as fuel doesnt seem to do much to supress knock in piston engines, it works well in rotaries though which is the main reason it is there as an option.

Doesnt the L15B Vtec solenoid have two wires? If it has 2 wires then you can just connect one wire to 12V and the other to the ecu aux and use lowside drive. The ECU then only needs to do lowside drive and it can handle 2A. If it only has one wire like the B18C that this post was about then you will need a relay to highside drive it.

The G4+ just uses a CP210X VCP, I would expect you can find a CP210x arm driver on the silabs site. I have no idea what parallels needs to work however. There are no plans to support Mac hardware at this time.

It would appear your pump is not happy at 33% (note that is only the DC that the FPC gets, Im not sure if it actually outputs the same 33% DC to the pump or if the relationship is not 1:1). You could try something like below so it switches to higher DC earlier (I still think idle will be less than 3% inj DC though so this may not help), or you can just set Aux 7 to off and the pump will run full speed all the time. Another option would be to use the openloop pump control option and just switch between 66% at idle and 100% a bit higher up if you wanted more flexability.

No, offset makes no difference to start up delay. The engine can start as soon as the ecu has seen the cam tooth.

Your updated config attached. Make sure your ECU is on the latest 5.6.8 firmware. Brad Foreman.zconfig

You have many bus errors on CAN1, you need to solve these for the E-throttle to be happy. The transmit and acknowledge error suggest possibly one device you are sending data to is not acknowledging.

The 300Z plug-in ecu doesnt have the Aux 9/10 pins available for direct E-throttle connection. You can use the external module or if you havent purchased the ecu yet your dealer could place a special order with Link for one to be hand modified with some flying leads added to make aux 9/10 available.

With mulittooth mode, the trigger offset is measured from the tooth on the crank that imediatly follows the cam edge back to TDC #1. So with an offset of zero that would suggest the edge of the cam window that you are using is somewhere very close to TDC. Looking at the stock evo 1-3 cas (it may be the same as 1g but might not be too), they have one of the "cam" falling edges at about 50ATDC and the other at about 340ATDC. So if the 1G cas is similar I would expect to trigger offset to be somewhere around one of these values, say +/-30deg. Its hard to imagine a reason why it would run on any cylinders at all if the ofset was wrong as it would be wrong by the same amount on all cylinders. As a reality check I would probably turn the engine over by hand to TDC#1 then pull the lid of the cas and see where the window is in ralation to the sensor. If one edge is right under the sensor then your offset of 0 is correct. Correct. Can you also confirm, when you do the ignition test, does cyl 1 spark when you test ign 1, cyl 2 when testing ign 2 etc...?

I dont think CAN errors on CAN 2 should be a problem since your APS is only on CAN 1 now. But I would suggest as a test you could try just turning off CAN 2 (set mode to off) since CAN bus APS is not very common I dont have enough experience to say for sure CAN 2 isnt the problem. Can you do a short log for me as follows: Start with E-throttle in set up mode and working, start the log recordeing, then switch to ON mode, keep recording until the fault occurs/throttle stops working (this may be immediately), save the log and attach here.