Adamw

We are considering how to enable direct entry of decimal numbers into a table without having to type in a leading zero (currently to enter say 0.87 lambda in the lambda target table you have to type in "0.87", rather than just ".87"). However for many years in Link software the "." and "," keys have been used as keyboard shortcuts to show/hide & pause/resume the snake trails so this use conflicts with being able to use these keys for direct text entry. None of us at Link use the snake trail feature much, but we realise others may. This poll is to try to get a feeling of how widely it is used and if changing the short cut keys would effect many users.

The triggerscope appears to show the ECU is all happy with the trigger signal. Can you give us a short PC log of it cranking. How are you checking for spark - did you actually pull a sparkplug out and watch it or are you relying on a timing light?

You would need 6 aux outputs to do that, do you have 6 spare?

I dont have any experience with that particular bike so cant offer much. My only other suggestion is to try a few different duty cycles on the tacho signal as some tacho's need a specific DC. I too would have expected a bike from that era if it had efi to have a conventional low level tacho signal.

I cant think of a good way to do that, you would need a counter function coupled with a timer to trigger something like you propose. If you want to do something that complex you will really need something like an external microcontroller to handle the logic. You maybe better using some other parameter to indicate high load has been used for a period such as high IAT.

It appears some wiring problem, maybe a bad ground or weak power supply. Your logged battery voltage drops to 5.50V during cranking and before the ecu shuts off.

T is for "show tables only" and this is a fairly commonly used hot key when tuning from what I have seen. I think the more important point is for this change the snake trail controls will have to change to something that is maybe less intuitive and we dont know how widely it is used or how many users it will upset. I personally rarely use it and I suspect most others that tune on a steady state dyno dont use it either but I can imagine that maybe road tuners or inertia dyno tuners may use it more. @Vaughan I see F6 is snake trail pause resume but for all tables - Im not sure if the full stop one would be needed if you can just use this to achieve something similar? I still cant think of a good intuitive way to free up the comma key though.

The fuel gauge is pretty odd in these, when you initially fill (and possibly after some re-starts or other trigger conditions) they display "fuel level", however when driving they receive fuel consumption data from the ecu and the gauge takes that into account and displays some different metric - I assume something like "distance to empty" or maybe a combination of DTE and the fuel level. So when they are jumping around in 1/4 tank increments like you describe it usually means the reported fuel consumption from the ecu didnt match the change in fuel level that the gauge measured.

Aux outputs are fully protected both in LS and HS mode. Current limitation, over voltage, under voltage & thermal shut down. No extra fusing needed.

It looks like you may have a bad connection somewhere, the Lambda controller is reporting only 5.7-5.8V on the supply side. I would start by pulling the orange wedge out of the DTM plug and check that the terminals are pushed all the way forward and are locked in by the barb, I have seen many users that are new to those get caught out when the terminal isnt fully home and pushes back out when you connect the plugs together. If that all looks ok then you really want to test the voltage while the circuit is loaded (Lambda still plugged in). Look up "how to back probe" on youtube or whatever to learn how to do that.

In the attached map I have added a custom CAN stream with more diagnostic variables set up. Can you load this map and do us another 30 second log. You do not need to start the engine for this test as the CAN message in this map will force the lambda to start up without RPM. afterlambdainstall - Lambda test.pclr

ABS will still function with an aftermarket standalone, but OEM TCS wont.

I can confirm after some testing that the sync with this cam trigger is taking one revolution longer than it did in G4+. Note for anyone else reading, this comment only applies to this rather unusual missing tooth on cam system with no trigger 2, no other trigger types are affected. The engineers are working on a fix to improve it. Mike, you will have to deal with the longer startup for a bit longer, I will give you a fix to try when they have something ready.

If your factory ecu has the 64 pin blue plug ecu then our S15 plug-in ECU will work: https://dealers.linkecu.com/NS15X_2 If your ECU has the 76 pin plug then the S13 plug-in will work: https://dealers.linkecu.com/NS13X_2

Polarity is only relevant for reluctor/VR sensors. Most hall effect sensors will work equally well rising or falling. A general rule for hall sensors is to choose the edges on trig1/2 that are not close to each other. Some specific hall effect sensors have one edge that will be slightly more accurate, but it is usually minimal.

You can only do on/off type functions, not PWM via CAN with G4+. If you need PWM you could possibly move something simple like fuel pump or fan from the ecu output to the CAN device to free up PWM outputs on the ecu.

You can also get COP test leads for relatively cheap, or just use an old spark plug wire between the coil and plug. Couple of examples Old plug lead: Hantek HT308:

Please start your own thread and post some logs, the engine in this thread has a missing tooth cam trigger only so sync is always going to take at least twice as long as your subaru which has multiple sync points per cam rev. @mike2016 I see a couple of problems in your logs. Ill coveasy one first. The start then stall is caused by fuel settings. In the log with the stall in it you have 32% crank enrichment, but only 2% post start enrichment. When the RPM reaches 500RPM it swaps from crank enrichment to post start. It stall when this 30% extra fuel is removed, you can see lambda go to 1.3 before it stalls. Typically the crank enrichment and post start enrichment should be near the same so it is seemless when you transition from one to the other. The long start up problem is mostly due to the sync, you can see in all these logs the RPM rises quickly as soon as there is dwell, but in some cases it takes a long time before there is dwell. Testing on the bench I think it may be code related as it looks like it takes one revolution longer than I expected it should need to sync. I have passed some questions on to engineering to see what they come back with.

The car I done worked out similar to Vaughan's example but I dont have a copy of the final map saved. I did it similar to his - it was a stock cluster gauge with no numbers so I just set it up so 90 deg gave me somewhere around the middle of the gauge and 100°C was 3/4 scale and at 105 the gauge was pegged.

So now at least you can rule out fuel as the issue. I would next put a timing light on it to confirm there is a spark when cranking and that the spark timing is somewhere close to the mark.

No that is fine. "Off" means the Ign switch DI is unassigned. If it said "Inactive" then that would would give you a cut, but off is fine. You can see in the log there is PW and dwell and no cuts.

Everything looks ok in that log as far as the ECU is concerned. You now have RPM, trigger status is happy, roughly correct looking inj PW and dwell. So it should have all it needs to go. TPS looks a little odd bouncing around a lot but that shouldnt prevent it from running. I would try a squirt of starter fluid in the intake when cranking as that is a good way to eliminate any fuel related issue. If you get signs of life with starter fluid then you need to investigate the fuel system. If you still get no signs of life with starter fluid then you need to confirm there is spark and timing is correct.

The only "trigger test" you can do is the triggerscope. Can you please attach the file you saved when you done the triggerscope.

Basically the straightest most vertical edge should fall through zero. Sometimes it is not easy to spot on multitooth wheels with very closely spaced teeth but it is definitely clear in the pictures above. Wiring info from the help file below showing example of correct and incorrect polarity.

You need to get the MAP working first. But then to adjust overall fueling to suit your injectors just adjust your master fuel value up or down until it runs best.