Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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In the attached map I have added a custom CAN stream with more diagnostic variables set up. Can you load this map and do us another 30 second log. You do not need to start the engine for this test as the CAN message in this map will force the lambda to start up without RPM.
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ABS will still function with an aftermarket standalone, but OEM TCS wont.
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I can confirm after some testing that the sync with this cam trigger is taking one revolution longer than it did in G4+. Note for anyone else reading, this comment only applies to this rather unusual missing tooth on cam system with no trigger 2, no other trigger types are affected. The engineers are working on a fix to improve it. Mike, you will have to deal with the longer startup for a bit longer, I will give you a fix to try when they have something ready.
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If your factory ecu has the 64 pin blue plug ecu then our S15 plug-in ECU will work: https://dealers.linkecu.com/NS15X_2
If your ECU has the 76 pin plug then the S13 plug-in will work: https://dealers.linkecu.com/NS13X_2
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Polarity is only relevant for reluctor/VR sensors. Most hall effect sensors will work equally well rising or falling. A general rule for hall sensors is to choose the edges on trig1/2 that are not close to each other.
Some specific hall effect sensors have one edge that will be slightly more accurate, but it is usually minimal.
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You can only do on/off type functions, not PWM via CAN with G4+.
If you need PWM you could possibly move something simple like fuel pump or fan from the ecu output to the CAN device to free up PWM outputs on the ecu.
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You can also get COP test leads for relatively cheap, or just use an old spark plug wire between the coil and plug. Couple of examples
Old plug lead:
Hantek HT308:
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11 hours ago, dx4picco said:
I have faced the same Problem on a Subaru. Fiddling with the fuel table at low rpm did somewhat help but I wasn't able to get the instant start and reliable start of the g4+
Please start your own thread and post some logs, the engine in this thread has a missing tooth cam trigger only so sync is always going to take at least twice as long as your subaru which has multiple sync points per cam rev.
@mike2016 I see a couple of problems in your logs. Ill coveasy one first.
The start then stall is caused by fuel settings. In the log with the stall in it you have 32% crank enrichment, but only 2% post start enrichment. When the RPM reaches 500RPM it swaps from crank enrichment to post start. It stall when this 30% extra fuel is removed, you can see lambda go to 1.3 before it stalls. Typically the crank enrichment and post start enrichment should be near the same so it is seemless when you transition from one to the other.
The long start up problem is mostly due to the sync, you can see in all these logs the RPM rises quickly as soon as there is dwell, but in some cases it takes a long time before there is dwell. Testing on the bench I think it may be code related as it looks like it takes one revolution longer than I expected it should need to sync. I have passed some questions on to engineering to see what they come back with.
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The car I done worked out similar to Vaughan's example but I dont have a copy of the final map saved. I did it similar to his - it was a stock cluster gauge with no numbers so I just set it up so 90 deg gave me somewhere around the middle of the gauge and 100°C was 3/4 scale and at 105 the gauge was pegged.
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So now at least you can rule out fuel as the issue.
I would next put a timing light on it to confirm there is a spark when cranking and that the spark timing is somewhere close to the mark.
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No that is fine. "Off" means the Ign switch DI is unassigned. If it said "Inactive" then that would would give you a cut, but off is fine.
You can see in the log there is PW and dwell and no cuts.
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Everything looks ok in that log as far as the ECU is concerned. You now have RPM, trigger status is happy, roughly correct looking inj PW and dwell. So it should have all it needs to go. TPS looks a little odd bouncing around a lot but that shouldnt prevent it from running.
I would try a squirt of starter fluid in the intake when cranking as that is a good way to eliminate any fuel related issue. If you get signs of life with starter fluid then you need to investigate the fuel system. If you still get no signs of life with starter fluid then you need to confirm there is spark and timing is correct.
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2 hours ago, snowshit0 said:
i tried today to get a scope reading. but nothing, no lines, blank. yes i have not done a trigger test.
The only "trigger test" you can do is the triggerscope. Can you please attach the file you saved when you done the triggerscope.
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Basically the straightest most vertical edge should fall through zero. Sometimes it is not easy to spot on multitooth wheels with very closely spaced teeth but it is definitely clear in the pictures above.
Wiring info from the help file below showing example of correct and incorrect polarity.
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You need to get the MAP working first. But then to adjust overall fueling to suit your injectors just adjust your master fuel value up or down until it runs best.
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You originally said there was no injection. Your log shows no RPM, it sounds like your triggersciope shows no signal, I suspect that means there is no trigger signal. Im not sure why you are now messing around with the ignition coil when you have a trigger problem.
If you want help, please follow the instruction in the video I done and attach the file that was produced.
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so you followed my video above? Can you attach the file that you saved.
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Should be able to add it onto the end of the generic stream. If you attach your map and your dash config I will have a go.
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6 hours ago, Surge914 said:
Wouldn't I accomplish the same by changing the dead times to see if changes the PW and AFR?
You will certainly be able to make it leaner by reducing the deadtimes but as Vaughan says that will give you no idea whether your deadtimes are actually correct or not. The test Vaughan suggested at least is a crude way to confirm the deadtime is somewhere close to correct - although with big injectors it doesnt always work well since the halved PW is so short.
I would start by removing about 0.3ms from all those numbers you have in the deadtime table (highlight whole table and hit "-0.3 enter" . Then set your lambda target to 0.95, get engine running and warmed up, adjust your fuel table so that it is idling at 0.95. Then change the target to 0.85 and watch what the measured lambda does, if deadtime is correct then your measured lambda will settle somewhere close to 0.85 after a couple of seconds. If it overshoots or undershoots 0.85 then it indicates your deadtimes are wrong. If wrong then you can then just adjust the whole deadtime table up or down a little and try the same test again until you have it so that measured lambda follows target reasonably well when you adjust the target only.
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7 hours ago, snowshit0 said:
scope test will not work.
What do you mean - it shows flat lines or nothing at all?
7 hours ago, snowshit0 said:so i run a ignition spark test. igniter clicking away , but no spark
Are you checking at the coil - not the plug lead? Is there 12V on the positive side of the coil?
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You would be best to do a Pc log of a start up, then we can see how long it takes to sync and then how much long er after Sync until it starts.
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B136-25 comes from fuse 11 in the "FB" fuse box, I assume that may be in the engine bay somewhere. It is hard to find correct wiring diagrams for the V5/6, but for all the engine stuff you can go to the G1 section of this forum, at the top of that forum there is a pinned topic "G1 manuals". look for the PossumV5.pdf manual, that has the factory engine wiring diagrams in the back pages.
I think I would start by unplugging the ecu and check if B136-25 switches on/off with ignition then. Also check B136-8&9 should not switch on with ignition when ecu is unplugged. I havent thought all the scenarios though well but I guess potentially if there was something damaged on the ecu it could it also cause some odd behavior - so these tests with ecu unplugged will confirm that.
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It sounds like the wiring has been modified in your car. With the stock wiring I would expect the ecu could not even power up without B136-25 connected.
Pin B136-25 is connected to both DI4 and another separate circuit which controls the main EFI relay - the relay that supplies 12V to all engine related stuff including the ecu, the role of this input is several;
- When the ignition switch sends 12V into B136-25 a small passive circuit onboard sends 12V back out of pin B136-32 (which is the trigger for the main efi relay), the Main relay then engages and that provides 12V to the ECU (B136-8 & 9), Injectors, coils etc. The 12V on DI4 tells the ecu to enable fuel and spark, the engine can then be started.
- When you switch off the ignition, DI4/B136-25 should drop to 0V and this tells the ecu to stop the engine (cut fuel and spark), but power is not shut off yet - Ignition drive 6 is also connected to the main relay pin (ecu hold power B136-32) so it will keep the engine and all accessories still powered up so it can perform the stepper motor reset in preparation for the next start up. After a few seconds ignition 6 switches off the main relay so the ecu, injectors coils etc all power down.
So if your car powers up and runs without 12V supplied to pin B136-25 then that main relay must be getting switched on some other way. Possibly a back feed from a poorly wired security system or something along those lines. It also means potentially important functions such as the stepper reset wont be working.
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We dont really currently have anything to offer for that model, the GDI fuel pump control is a bit unique and our GDI ecu struggled to control it well when tested.
CAN Lambda Issues - R32GTR - Error26
in G4+
Posted
It looks like you may have a bad connection somewhere, the Lambda controller is reporting only 5.7-5.8V on the supply side.
I would start by pulling the orange wedge out of the DTM plug and check that the terminals are pushed all the way forward and are locked in by the barb, I have seen many users that are new to those get caught out when the terminal isnt fully home and pushes back out when you connect the plugs together.
If that all looks ok then you really want to test the voltage while the circuit is loaded (Lambda still plugged in). Look up "how to back probe" on youtube or whatever to learn how to do that.