Adamw

New log and map please. Is RPM still dropping out in the log now?

You have no signal on trigger 1 (crank sensor). Cam is fine. So most likely wiring is damaged or something is unplugged somewhere. Also, not the cause of your problem, and not relevant at the moment, but FYI, your trigger mode should be set to Subaru V1-6 assuming you still have the original EJ20.

For your map, when you are connected to the ecu just go to >file>save as to save a copy of the current map. Your triggerscope I dont think you have done right. Make sure you only click the capture button when the engine is already cranking over - not before.

Please attach your map too. Also, can you do us a triggerscope while cranking, in your log it looks like possibly you have a cam signal but no crank signal. How to do a triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=jQuErY

You can only have 1 MAP sensor. The 2nd one will have to be assigned as a GP input.

Use the JZX 100 map in the base maps folder.

That drawing looks a bit wrong? It looks like they are using the FPC to pulse a mechanical relay? In the factory setup, Pin 10 is high current 12V from the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump connects directly to pin 6 & 7. Pin 8 is the PWM signal, connect that to any Aux output. Pin 9 is not needed, it is just a "pump is running" signal from the FPC back to the ecu.

Can you do us a short PC log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your map here. How to do the log if you dont know: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yeah your trigger is dropping out, I suspect just the arming threshold is a little too high. Try setting your trigger 1 arming threshold to match below:

The base map shows exhaust cam connected to trigger 2 and inlet cam connected to DI1. There is wiring info in the help file, I will attach below. If you are using a factory loom you will need the relay for the vtec solenoid as shown in the diagram below (since factory ecu switches 12V side), if you are making your own loom then you can do it without the extra relay, connect it direct to an aux output and the other side of the solenoid to +12V. Oh, be aware also, Im pretty sure the K24 crank sensor pinout is different than the K20, so you need to research that yourself.

Temp 3 & 4 have a fixed 1Kohm 5V pull-up. It might be better to move your coolant or air temp sensor to AN T3, so you can then use ANT 1 or 2 for your EGT as you can turn the pull-up off in software for 1&2.

It does appear there is some improvement there. Did you give it a test drive to see if you still have VVT errors?

The problem is the crank sensor signal, you have barely 0.2V for some teeth. Usually subarus have much better voltage than this, usually more like ~0.8V. My first suggestion would be to lower the trigger 1 arming threshold to match my example below. If this doesnt help then you need to search for the cause of the low voltage. Most likely something mechanical such as the sensor air-gap is too large. Or it could be a missing ground connection or other wiring issue.

Your car should still have a MAP sensor as well as the AFM, you can get rid of the AFM. TVIS is fine as is, our ECU is designed to handle both the Rev 2 and Rev 3 pinouts with no changes to the wiring.

I think it is worth a shot, im still not confident those spikes are your issue but they have potential to be and dont see much else wrong so we might as well try to eliminate them. Supressors are usually a 0.5-3uF, you may find one as a small square black box near the coils on many modern cars, sometimes on the back of an alternator, or you can use an old school "condensor" like you have on a points car. "UBZ111" is a common aftermarket one like below. Some of the OEM ones are a bit nicer design with two pin connectors etc.

There is a K20 Monsoon basemap in PC link, that will be a decent starting point.

Yep your trigger settings are roughly correct but possibly arming threshold is too high. Doesnt matter if it wont run, a log and scope done during cranking will be fine.

Im pretty sure that is what we refer to as a "Rev 2" MR2. So should be correct ecu and the ST205 basemap will work with the minor adjustments in the manual. MAP sensor source setting will need to be changed to AN V4.

Can you do us a short log of a start attempt and also a triggerscope (cranking or idling will do). The only thing that jumps out at me in your map is the trigger 1 error counter suggests something may not quite be right there.

What firmware version are you using? I know there was something funny with the voltage comp overriding the min clamp on an earlier version. Ill take a closer look if you are on a recent firmware. Regardless, I wouldnt bother with voltage comp on a boost solenoid, it is more aimed at VVT and idle valves that float at some proportional opening based on average current, with boost valves since they fully open and close every cycle they are more effected by solenoid deadtime (which isnt compensated) rather than just current.

You cant send the buttons on the side or page changes, only the anlog inputs, GPS and math channels.

Yes, with G4+ you have to replace the MAP axis with gear shift status to increase knock threshold during gear changes.

You do not need one, the ECU temp inputs have a 1Kohm pull-up built in. The 1 kohm will actually give you better resolution than the bosch recommended 4.7k or whatever it is at the normal temperatures you are interested in.

It looks like you have way too much accel fuel going in. Injector timing also looks very odd. Can you put all accel settings back to the same as our altezza base map (TPS mode and much less sens & clamp) and injector timing back to 380/400 then do us another log.

Possibly. Do you mean from a button/switch that is connected to the dash?