Adamw

MR2's with distributors seem to be a bit of a problem child, probably the most common car I see comms issues reported on by far. From the few users I have helped with the issue I havent yet seen a common trend. The first one I looked at closely I found his comms issues mostly occurred at idle or when coming down to idle, turning off idle ignition control solved it so I assumed the large swing in ign timing was more than the rotor phasing would allow so the spark was possibly jumping off the end of the rotor to something that had a more direct connection to the ecu. The 2nd one had similar symptoms but turning off idle ignition control didnt solve it in that case. I got him to double check rotor phasing and that looked ok. With most other common stuff like resistor spark plugs and leads etc checking out ok I asked him to look at the ignitor and how it was grounded etc, he found there was a lot of corrosion where the ignitor or bracket mounted and also found the factory noise suppressor was open circuit at the same time (possibly the bad ground fizzed the suppressor?). He fixed both those at the same time and they solved his issue so Im not sure which one was the main culprit. Then the 3rd one was a bit different, it would lose coms at high load and sometimes a trigger issue would occur at the same time, we checked through most common stuff as above and couldn't find anything obvious. I dont remember if we actually checked the suppressor in that car - or maybe he said it didnt have one. Anyhow he wanted to change to coil on plug anyway so rather than spend more time diagnosing he just did that and both the comms issue and trigger error disappeared. That was still using the dizzy for the trigger. So my first suggestion is if you have idle ign control enabled then try with idle ign off. Check the ignitor ground and suppressor (most multimeters have a capacitor test) and confirm the other common causes such as HT leads, distributor cap/button etc.

Yes you can do this. I thought I had already given you examples of how to set this up a couple of times in the past. Attach a copy of your tune and I will set up an example.

Is it still using a distributor?

The accessory loom is this one: https://dealers.linkecu.com/WBLOOM The plug is a Mini-Universal MATE-N-LOK, try part number 172338-1 or 172167-1

You have a fuel pressure problem that you want to solve, so I wouldn't dismiss the sensor calibration straight away, especially when it is obviously out by a factor of at least 100. The units in PC Link are Kpa, not bar. Even if you think it is just a "decimal point" issue, you have 100X less resolution than you should have and the differential fuel pressure calculation wont work with it set as it is. Where did you get the greedy calibration data from? Most Greddy products to use proprietary calibrations and they dont normally make the data available. If it were me I would replace it with a sensor that has known accurate data.

No, the '340 sensor as with 99.9% of all bosch NTC's definitely uses the standard bosch calibration, 2500ohms at 20°C. The 0280130017 is a rare calibration, the only application I know of is a cyl head temp sensor that was only used for a couple of years in the seventies on VW engines with d-jetronic. Air cooled cyl head and 12V pull-up, hence the unusual calibration

So does it have a separate single cam tooth for trigger 2 sync? Or are you using cam level sync mode or something?

I have used that same booster with other toyota's successfully. From memory it has a pull-up built in on the input side anyway but Im not sure why the 10K worked, but not the 1K, either should be fine and I wouldnt expect those to change the signal that the booster sees at all. Unfortunately hard to diagnose without a scope connected to confirm waveforms etc. You could possibly use the triggerscope as a tool by running a jumper wire from the tacho into trigger 1. Did you try larger duty cycle in the tacho settings?

Attach a copy of your tune and a PC log of a start attempt.

The rising edges are evenly spaced so you can use the "3 evenly spaced teeth" vvt mode. What is it using for trigger mode?

G4 has CAN transmit only, no receive. i.e. the ecu can send data to a dash display or logger for example, but it cant receive data from a lambda device.

What tacho booster do you have? Where are you wiring the pull-up?

That sounds about right, maybe a little high. Can you confirm the TPS Out jumper is in the 1:1 position:

Your fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong, it should be more like 350Kpa, not 3.0. What pressure sensor and regulator do you have? Whenever I find a fuel supply issue I do a quick return flow test to confirm where the issue is - something like below; Use a mityvac or air compressor etc to apply desired boost to the FPR reference. Pull the return line off, hang it in a bucket/bottle. Set the fuel pump prime time to 25sec, store, then power cycle ign. Measure how much fuel you have in the bucket after the 25sec prime. Multiply by 2.4 to get your approx pump flow per minute. For petrol you want a minimum of about 600cc/min per 100HP.

Yes, those coils will be no problem in direct spark or wasted spark.

That note would have been related to a G4+ ECU which had a different range of cal tables. Cal 4/5/6 would be equivalent to "Linear Cal 1/2/3" in G4X. For that sensor you can just choose the "Bosch 10Bar" pressure calibration and "Bosch Std NTC" for the temp calibration.

You need to confirm fuel pressure is correct and constant. Your MAP and Injector PW is reasonably stable when your AFR is erratic, so the variation is not coming from anything the ecu is commanding, fuel pressure would be the main external variable that can affect AFR so this needs to be confirmed first. How did you check base timing?

We dont currently have a proper MAF based fuel strategy, although you can make it work, I wouldnt bother.

See if this document helps: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXx12_StradaSpieIcone_100_eng.pdf Connection is described on page 3, and software set up on page 10 & 11. Another doc with slightly more detail of software setup: https://www.aimsports.com/webinars/Documents/FAQ_RS3_Fuel_level_101_eng.pdf If anything is not clear to you after following these documents then reply here and I will try to give more specific help.

Neither of those settings apply to G4X, the pic was probably from a G4+.

What voltage is showing on AN Volt 3 with the throttle closed?

An "E-Gate" is just a different actuator to move the valve in the wastegate, all the same principles and limitations apply as a pneumatic gate, the min and max boost you will be able to achieve will be determined by the turbo system as a whole, not just the gate. The set up and tuning of the control system will be more complex than a pneumatic gate as you now have 2 separate control loops to tune. One for the position control which will usually be done in the "black box" (ie like tuning an E-throttle so that the wastegate position follows its position target) and then the closed loop boost control part needs to be set up and tuned in the ecu just like normal.

So what is the actual problem? Can you give a clear and detailed description of what problem you are trying to solve. Originally you said the CAN lambda was "shorting to ground". I assume it isn't now? Then you said that the laptop disconnects when you try to crank? Is that still the case? Is this related to your lambda issue or a different problem? Then there was a pic of CAN errors on the run time screen? What question is this related to? Then there was a pic of a trigger scope? How is this related to the Lambda?

One was a AC Cobra kit car so the only other pieces related to the MK60 was the G/Yaw sensor. The other was a E46 race car, most OEM stuff including the dash was gone. That was 3 or 4 years back so I dont remember if it had a BCM or what else there was left on the factory bus.

I wouldnt worry about the idle control at this point, get it running correctly with stable AFR first. Have you confirmed fuel pressure? Have you set base timing? What does it have for ign coils & Ignitors?