Adamw

Give us a log and map please. Email me if you dont want it on here.

Your Dwell table is a little lower than I would expect for LS2 coils. Maybe the spark is weak? Can you try adjusting your table to look like this: This can be quite important. For the relative positioning of the cam/crank teeth I would have thought on an old engine like this the teeth should be accessible/visible? Can you not turn engine so that the gap on the crank is pointing at the sensor, then check where cam tooth is? I am not sure what instructions you used but unless the instructions came from link it may not be correct. An oscilloscope is the only way to know sensor polarity is correct. Do you still have any pictures from the last time a scope was connected? Right now I'm not convinced you actually have a trigger issue at all. If you have tried 3 different setups already without improvement its time to try to diagnose what the issue is rather than just replacing parts. If the increased dwell suggested above doesnt improve the situation and you are really sure you have a trigger issue then the next step is to visit someone that owns an oscilloscope. Most good tuners, mechanical shops and auto electricians should have one today... I dont see anything wrong in the settings you listed .

Although I have never seen it labeled that way, your assumption is correct. CAN H = CAN +. CAN L = CAN -.

There is no sign of trigger error in your log but often if its noise related you will only see it under higher loads as ignition energy gets significant enough so that doesnt mean this is not your problem. The two main clues to look for in a log that are indicative of trigger error is spikes or unexplained bumps on the RPM trace and unstable dwell time (dwell scatter). RPM rate can also indicate it but for that you more experience to know what is normal and what is abnormal. What do you have for coils/ignition system? How are the triggers set up - is the cam tooth well away for the gap on the crank etc? Have you confirmed the polarity of the crank sensor is correct? Have you ever had an oscilloscope on it to confirm if there is a trigger problem? Also your fuel mapping is done a bit odd. If you are using TP load axis on a turbo car you should really have the open loop afr target table turned on so that is can compensate for the different target over a range of boost pressures. It looks like that compensation has probably just been "baked into" the fuel table now but it means the AFR will only match the target at one specific boost level. That will be fine only if you intend to run the same boost level at all times.

Di9 is connected to 3 pins on that ECU, the expansion connector, pin 28 & pin 112. Make sure there is nothing connected to any of these others.

If you are willing to use an old firmware version 4.9.3, that had the capability to "combine" an analog input with the "knock window" to do individual cylinder control. That feature was removed from later firmwares - I dont know the exact reason but I remember it was reported on this forum that it was rarely used and sometimes wasnt very effective. However at that time the digital interface was available so you still had another option. My logic would probably lean a slightly different way - If you combine the cost of the KS4 with the sell price you could get for the V44, I suspect you wouldnt be far off the cost of a new Storm that has proper knock control builtin - and lots of new features too... It sounds like your engine is reasonably valuable so you have to consider the cost/risk ratio carefully.

I doubt you will find anything, they where not a popular ecu. It is a very simple ecu with only basic settings, it will be easiest to start fresh.

Sorry, I had a dig around and we have no basemaps for anything like this.

You need to disconnect or snip that wire, if the ECU 5V output then recovers after disconnecting then that means something connected to that wire that is "shorting" to ground.

Yeah the TP Low limiter doesnt really mater but it is always good to have realistic settings for unexpected circumstances such as throttle stuck partially open etc...

AFR will always show lean on any type of limiter. You are measuring AFR using an oxygen sensor. If you cut ignition there is no combustion so you have excess oxygen in the exhaust, hence lambda shows lean. It sounds to me like you need a much smooth limiter, it is usually the harsh "hard limiter" effect that makes it feel like you have hit a wall. Try something like this: advanced mode : ON hard limit OFF cut effect: Adaptive limit ctrl range: 500 RPM hard limit activation: 0 RPM end cut: 100% start cut TP 100%: 40% start cut TP LOW: 20% tp low: 20% exit decay rate 20% /20ms limit ign trim -5

For a G1 ecu? Does yours have PC Connectivity and do you have all the equipment to connect to it?

Sorry I missed your earlier post. Unfortunately I cant offer you a good solution. The V44 knock control was designed to use our "G4/vipec knockblock" device, this done proper windowed knock control. This device has been obsolete for quite a few years though and you dont see them come up for sale often. You can use that KS4 device and connect it to an analog input. That may give you some protection but with no windowing or adjustable frequency filters I cannot say how well it will work.

yes one of those will be close to correct (-84 or 276). I cant tell you which one though, it is just normally easiest just to try one, if it doesnt start or backfires, use the other one. All of your other settings sound ok.

There is no "injector sizing" as the V88 was purely a pulsewidth based fuel model, not VE based like most OEM systems you have mentioned. The closest thing to a "injector sizing" is what we call "master fuel" You will find this under ECU settings>Fuel>Fuel main. Notice if you click on any setting the help browser to the right should update to the relevant page and explain what most settings do: "Trigger calibration" just means syncing the base timing so that if for instance the ECU commands 20deg you know that is what the engine is actually receiving. Again, the procedure is explained in the help browser once you click on the set base timing field. This old video may help you with some of the navigation and software features: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hb04S07IA0&t=212s

Yes this is fine, share the 12V and ground, only the signals need to be separate.

Open the "set base timing" screen, that is where you enter the offset. Remember to hit the enter key after changing the offset.

I've had a quick look at our schematic and its fairly complicated so I dont understand all of it but it looks to me like the pull-up on the triggers is probably 4K7. What I can tell you with more confidence though is the stock G4+ pullup will work perfectly fine with that sensor, I have used them many times. Power it from 12V.

It looks to me like the DASH2Pro CAN stream sends "non-driven" wheel speed so your setup above should have worked ok. No harm in trying what Simon suggests though and assign both driven and non driven to the same wheel. Also check in the Dash2Pro config that the speed display is looking for "non-GPS" speed: In the Dash2Pro CAN config, make sure the ECU speed channel is enabled and also make sure you dont have more than 15 channels enabled:

I dont have any experience with water injection to offer much advice on the merits of pump control Vs solenoid control but I can tell you that what ever way you go for you can do all of what you wish using standard functions in the G4+. You would have the "pump switch" connected to a DI. That DI could then be used to activate the solenoid (the PWM will still be controlled by a 3D table) and at the same time a second boost table and a second ignition table if required.

Hi Tarlo, There's a few ways to change parameter properties but here's what I find easiest: Right click on your time plot, select "properties. Double left click on the Lambda 1 parameter to bring up parameter properties. Set scaling to "display min/max", enter the range you want into the "display min" and "display max" fields.

I did talk to Christian on tech support webchat last night about this subject. The G4 & V series ECU's did not have OBD2 data output. As far as I know the only CAN that the Torque app can read is OBD2 type protocols.

I do see the LH intake error you are talking about popping up quite randomly but it doesnt seem to upset anything - the camshaft control is still tracking target quite well. I would just ignore it if I were you, it may not be something we can fix easily. Below I have marked the LH Intake errors but if you look at the position and target directly underneath there is no problem.

Ok, you are very lean for some reason. When you unplug the IAT sensor it defaults to your error value of -40°C which adds 26% more fuel. Since nothing has changed ECU/Map wise you need to look at why the engine is suddenly getting ~30% less fuel. Start by checking fuel pressure - it could be the fuel pump or FPR dying or a blocked filter etc. If pressure looks ok then I would have the injectors inspected.

Hi Dan, sorry not in the V series. You have a speed limiter function that can do a similar function but only at a fixed pre-defined speed, not selectable like RLC.