Adamw

Hi John, Although you can connect a MAP sensor and the ECU can use it in multiple ways, you wouldnt normally gain much by connecting a MAP sensor to an ITB engine. If you wanted to try a MAP sensor then your thinking is correct - you would have to take a vacuum line from each intake runner into a small "manifold" and you would probably want some sort of mechanical dampening (orifice) to smooth the signal into something that is usable. Having said that, you can usually get a reasonable tune over all operating conditions just using TP. When using TP as your main load axis you need to set up the breakpoints on the table axis to have very small increments at small openings, gradually going to bigger steps at larger throttle openings. Something like 0%, 2%, 4, 6, 8, 10, 15, 20, 25, 35, 45, 60, 80, 100% is what I normally do. Is your table set up this way?

Im fairly sure that engine should have the common Subaru 36-2-2-2 pattern on the crank. It is a good trigger system. The stock 2JZ trigger is usually pretty good. If the polarity on the sensor is reversed you will see some drift with RPM so maybe the sensor was connected backwards? It is hard to tell from a trigger scope on these engines as the waveform is almost symmetrical.

Please get in contact with tech support (or get your dealer to) for proper troubleshooting before returning it. Even though it sounds like you already have covered most of what we will ask you to do, returns will not be accepted unless this has been done and recorded as a tech support case. With the CAN system there is not only just the "data" that is streamed across the bus but also hidden from the end user is a complex acknowledgement, data validation and error checking regime. From the errors showing in your screenshot above and the fact that the dash is actually displaying data I suspect the dash might not be sending back the proper acknowledgement message. If your dash isnt on the latest firmware it would pay to do an update as some of the AIM CAN is quite buggy at present.

At steady state RPM there is not a lot of noticeable difference between a high or low tooth count. However there is a big difference when the crankshaft is accelerating or decelerating at high rates. A low tooth count wheel doesnt update engine position as often so the ignition advance calculation will lag behind the change in engine speed. That results in significantly more ignition advance being applied during acceleration. Many years ago when I first started playing with EFI most ECU's could only decode "1 edge per TDC", back then it was not uncommon to see 10-20deg of timing drift with a quick throttle blip. Starting was often an issue also as the crank acceleration at low RPM caused lots of timing scatter. On low tooth count wheels like the OEM evo one we look at both the rising and falling edge to improve the situation a little (so 4 updates per rev) but still it is not ideal for a high performance engine. Nowadays 36-2 is my favorite but really anything more than about 24 teeth you cant physically see much drift. The higher tooth counts like 60-2 etc when used by an OEM I suspect are probably there more for strategies such as misfire detection etc rather than solely improving transient ignition.

Hi Mark, We cant tell much just from screenshots. It may not even be an accel enrichment problem. Can you do a log of a short drive and post that and a copy of your map and we will take a look. How to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Ok attached are a couple of files. The .lcs is a configurable version of our "generic dash stream", it has been modified a bit (the 8 knock channels have been removed). I have added DI2 status to the end of it so hopefully you can see how it is done. The .xc1 file is a matching custom CAN config for race studio 3. The Link end I think is easy enough to work out by trial and error. The AIM end is not quite so intuitive so I will post a couple of pics to explain the basics: Click the custom CAN button, then import, then browse for the .xc1 file: Once that is imported you can right click on it and select "open this custom can for editing" and you will get a screen like below with the whole message format showing. If you look down at the last frame you will see the DI2 status that I have added. If you double click on those DI2 bytes it will bring up an edit screen which is where you set the start bit, length, scaling etc. Have a play yourself, if you cant get it to work then reply here with the channels you need and I will try to set something up for you. Configurable Generic Dash - modified with DI2.lcs LINK_G4+ Generic + DI_@20170524_021339_007952.xc1

You can't modify the preconfigured streams, normally you have to start from scratch. I do already have a configurable version of the generic dash stream that I can post here later when I'm at work. I think I also have some modified MXS configs that you can copy from.

I just messed around with a test CAN Lambda device. The only way I can get the same combination of errors showing like you have above is to either disconnect 12V, or disconnect one of the CAN wires. All other things I tried like swapping H&L and incorrect CAN settings, ID's etc gave different types of errors. So apart from looking at those two possibilities again I dont have many other thoughts. I guess you could try connecting an ammeter inline to the 12V supply and see if it draws any current during power up. Even without CAN connected mine pulls up to about 2.5A for maybe 10seconds when power is first applied.

Hi Ian, Crank wheel will be good as is - no need to remove any teeth. For the cam target you will need to remove one of the teeth, Its a bit hard to guess which one is the best one to keep though without doing a trigger scope. The position of the cam tooth (in terms of engine position) is not important, however we do ideally want to choose an edge that is roughly centered between two teeth edges on the crank. I suggest fit the crank wheel first, but leave the two teeth on the cam initially. Then crank the engine and do a trigger scope. Post the scope image here and from that we will then be able to advise which is the best tooth to remove and which edges to select in the trigger settings.

Yes you have it correct. Although that doesnt look like a link supplied cable? If the yellow and grey wires are longer than about 200mm (even if they are not connected to anything) they will cause the PC comms to fail, so that is probably why CAN1 is not working for you. Most of the Link supplied CANPCB cables that I am familiar with are only about 100mm long so they dont normally interrupt the PC Comms. CAN 2 should work though. I assume Simon has already been through all this already but if you look at the CAN tab on the runtimes screen if the bus is happy you should have a nice block of green like below. If there are any red errors there is something wrong.

Hi Dynonrw, since you had started 3 separate threads in two different forums all asking the same thing I have merged them all into this one post. As Brad says there is a 350Z base map supplied when you install our software. Most of the pinout info is in the PCLink helpfile, you will also need to look at the "pin functions" list, I have added a screenshot below so you know where to find those. Note we also have a plugin ECU for this car which might be easier than using a wire-in. You will also need to access the OEM CAN bus to keep the traction control and instruments working.

You will also need to set up the individual cyl knock level gains and cyl allocations on the "cyl setup" page, so that all cylinders report a similar background noise level. HP Academy have quite a good webinar on tuning the G4+ Knock control system: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/049-setting-up-knock-control-link-g4-vipec/ You will need a ~$20 membership to view their webinars.

Was this a plugin ecu? Your symptom: "putting it in CAN1 slot just makes the ecu disconnect" in my mind could only be explained by it being connected to the RS232 pins instead of the CAN pins?

Hi Shane, For some reason I cant download your map. It sounds like you want a more aggressive cut rather than a soft cut. The main setting that effects the "aggressiveness" of the limiting action is the limit control range. Try making this number smaller.

I have already replied to Jay via email, but for the interest of any that may be following along this thread, the reason that Aux 8 is turning "off" (or not turning on) in those screenshots above is there was a critical piece of information missing. That missing information was the Aux 8 DC table had zeros in it in those regions - so even if the activation conditions have been met, when you have a PWM output with a DC of 0% it is effectively (and logged as) "off". It would be nice to be able to log %DC one day to make this easier to visualise on a log...

The EC sensors that we sell have AN6 fittings already fitted. But you can also buy AN fittings that clip on to the "push on tails" from most of the big hose/fitting suppliers. It is most common to run these fitted in the return. I have even seen them on some "big power" systems where they just bypass a small amount of the fuel through them so that it is not a restriction.

I dont even know what that fuel table was from - it was just whatever map I had open at the time. Our general recommendation is to use MGP as a load axis rather than MAP. The reason is MGP compensates for changes in barometric pressure (or altitude) better.

I said set it to falling earlier because at that time you had nothing connected to the DI and you wanted it to be turned off. When your switch is turned "off" the DI will be at 0V, we call this "low", when you turn the switch/button "on" the DI will see 12V, this is called "high". So, we set active edge to "rising" because we want the launch to turn on when our DI "rises" from low voltage to high voltage.

Yes, except active edge should be rising.

I think you actually want a "Time Plot", our "XY Plot" is actually more like a scatter graph, where as it sounds like you want a trendline type display. So yes you can do this. Just right click on any spare space on your tuning page then >new view>Time plot. Choose the parameters you want to display and the time base scale etc. You will need PC Logging running during tuning for this plot to be live (F8 to start logging or set up some auto start conditions).

Can you email us your map and log from above, include a link to this thread so we know what it is about. I will have a play on the sim and see if I can find or explain the issue.

Obviously the ECU will still be commanding the same injector pulsewidth so the only thing that can change AFR is either a change in air flow or a change in fuel pressure. Since you have done little that would influence air flow I think you can jump to the conclusion that fuel pressure has changed.

With those settings above and nothing connected to the DI, launch would be on all the time. Set the DI active edge to falling and it should turn off.

As Brad and I have already said above, there is no 5V supply at the standard MAF connector. There is a 0-5V "output", but not a 5V regulated power supply. It would need to come back to us in New Zealand to have a 7Bar internal sensor fitted. Your easiest/cheapest options are those given post #4 above.

KnockBlock G4 Manual.pdf