Adamw

The sensor pinout for the press sensors that we sell are in the help file:

No. At the moment development time is allocated to existing projects and I dont think much will be happening on new plugin applications for sometime. Your post above hinted that you only have an engine - do you have a whole car or just the engine?

Go for a drive with your laptop connected. Turn on snake trails and watch your fuel table during a high speed lift off, take a note of the cells in the table that the snake trail moves through. Most likely it will be the very top right cornier like I have highlighted below. Put much larger numbers in these cells. You will probably get more effect if you also remove about 20deg of timing from the ignition table in the same area. Be prepared for a big hit in fuel economy after this change.

Exactly. Knock are dedicated inputs, no assignment needed.

Yes the Thunder DI's were designed specifically to take ABS speed sensor type inputs so you will well and truly be fine. The momentary and toggle settings are mostly just user preference or to allow you to take advantage of some existing switch/button that is already in the car/dashboard/steering wheel/etc. The Toggle setting is used where you have a switch that has two distinct positions, in this case the switch takes care of "latching". The momentary setting is for when you have a spring loaded button/switch that returns to the off position by itself, with this setting the firmware takes care of the latching (i.e one press of on, another press for off) Most functions you can use either type of switch/setting, the exception is Cruise control which only works with momentary switches at present. I believe it is intended to make the cruise switch type more configurable soon. Either is fine for a DI switch.

Hi Dan, how does the transbrake switch work? Does it supply 12v to the ecu when pressed or gnd?

Your map has 2 aux outputs assigned to fuel pump, Aux 5 & Ign 3.. That does not work - you can have only one aux assigned to fuel pump. Usually only the last one assigned will work. If you want the second aux to just mirror what the fuel pump aux 5 is doing then set up Ign 3 as a GP Outpu like below. Ign 3 will then just do exactly what aux 5 does. Another option is to save yourself a precious aux output by connecting both pump relays to the same aux. Edit, added later: Also I just noticed you have 2 aux outputs assigned to ISC Solenoid, this wont work either. If you have a 3 wire valve then Aux 1 needs to be set to "ISC Sol. Slave" Also: Gear shift control is set to be activated by DI1 which you have assigned as anti-theft. I suspect Gear shift control should be turned off. It looks like our base map has gear cut turned on by default so that is probably easy to miss and shouldnt be like that. I will get that fixed for future versions.

http://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2

Yes this would be the way to do it if you are starting from scratch. If it is already wired for batch fire then you will probably find it will run perfectly fine like that to. Semi seq you might be able to get slightly smoother idle and sometimes a little smoother run at light loads.

Sorry we dont have a ECU capable of this yet and no plans in the near future. At present the Force ECU wouldnt even be able to run the GDI only part of this engine as we havent yet had one in house to reverse engineer.

As Brad says above the MAF connector is not the easiest option as you will have a find a 5V source from somewhere else. The easiest option is to buy the expansion harness which has the three wires you need. If you want to use the MAF connector then probably the easiest place to get 5V from will be the TP sensor.

Yes that would be the basic plan for start up. Once you get the tune closer you could possibly turn on the idle ignition control to help improve idle and "anti-stall" a little but leave that until you have it running reasonable first.

Yes you have a couple of different types of CLL strategies available in the Xtreme. For your application I would probably use the "Auto mode" which will allow you to continuously correct lambda to match the target lambda table, it also includes some user definable lockout conditions that will disable CLL under certain conditions - for instance during warmup, above a certain RPM or boost pressure etc.

Hi Jay, Sorry I missed your post here the other day. I had a bit of a play around on the simulator myself and can reproduce a similar effect to what you are seeing. If I continuously increase throttle from a small TP, the load correction table doesnt seem to pull the enrichment down as TP increases like my logic would expect it to. Im not sure yet if this is expected behavior and it was just designed to operate that way for a reason or if there is actually a problem with it. We dont get too many reports from tuners about it not working right though so I suspect it must work ok for most. I will get engineering to take a look at it but the main firmware developer is away this week so its not going to be a quick reply.

Your E-throttle system is shutting down into safety mode due to an AP tracking error. I think your problem is due to the incorrect "APS (Sub) 100%" setting, yours is set to zero but it would normally be 100%. Try setting this to 100%, do a store and have another try.

Ok, I just probed my tuning cable, that pinout above is wrong. Here's what I get: Pin 1 = USB GND Pin 2 = N/C Pin 3 = D+ Pin 4 = D- Pin 5 = VCC Pin 6 = Shield (the metal case on the USB plug) Also be careful where you get your pinout from as I noticed when looking up the USB pinout on google many images have the D-/D+ swapped over. My numbering above is based on the pinout below that I have marked "correct".

Note DBW is not a good torque reduction method for traction control - it is just too slow as the throttle needs to move a relatively long way to give a small torque reduction. For traction control you generally need a very large torque reduction as quickly as possible to arrest the slip. This is the reason Ignition or fuel cut is the common method. I have seen some higher end control systems that do use DBW as part of the torque reduction strategy but it is rarely the sole TR method. In these systems they will usually arrest the slip initially using a cut (& sometimes retard) then only if the slip persists for some time they will close the throttle to reduce the amount of cut/retard required for control.

Hi Brett, Yes, one push for on, push again for off.

I would need to see a log to see what it causing your issue. How to get help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A One likely cause I see in your map is you have gear shift cut set up to be activated by DI4, yet you have DI4 assigned to wheel speed. So gear cut is going to be activated every time a wheel moves a little.

Hi Nguyen, I sent a reply to your tech support case earlier also. Please attach your map and dash config and I will take a look. You can email to if you dont want it on public forum.

Set the injector type to custom then you can type your own values into the deadtime table. Fill it out to look like this below:

Hi Mickey, Where abouts are you in the world? Is there somewhere local you can take it to try with a genuine USB cable?

I agree with Blaine here, you log doesnt really exhibit any problems - it looks like it is idling quite nice. I too think it is potentially the very short injector pulsewidth at idle that gives odd behaviour under some conditions and maybe giving it a slightly richer idle might help, maybe try less advance also as it has ~20deg at idle. Also your CLL is potentially being randomly disabled due to the "MAP delta" lockout combined with the unstable MAP. I would try increasing this from 0 up to about 3KPa.

Oh yeah, I missed the fact it is an Atom sorry. You will either have to block the idle circuit and try to get an acceptable idle with the throttle stop or fit a two wire solenoid type valve.

When adjusting trigger offset you have to hit the enter key for the changes to be applied. A high idle means too much air is getting in. This could be idle valve settings, throttle blade open too far, or an air leak. To eliminate the idle valve as the source of air you can set it to open loop mode and put large numbers through the whole base position table - say something like 500 should keep the valve closed.