Adamw

Set your ISC Mode to open loop for now. Try much smaller numbers in the base position table. Try something like halving the numbers it presently has.

On the stock R34 the AC relay is supplied constant 12V (both the coil and the main contact), this needs to be changed so that at least the coil only has 12V when ignition switch is on. It is common to take this switched 12V source from the Injectors power supply. Diagrams below: Stock: Modified: Turn on AC switch. If AC doesnt work you need to change it... Yes, this is perfect. You dont need to "set the resistor value" the only option is to turn pull-up on of off - it needs to be on for your wiring choice.

If you watch DI8 status in the runtimes as shown below does it turn off after launch? Does it seem to switch on/off in a reasonable pedal position (i.e not at the very top in the free play region)? If you have a wheel speed input there are a couple of other tricks you could do so that it will only be active when car is not moving.

Yes that would be correct. You shouldnt need any of those.

I suspect the issue might be using MGP as the load axis on the main fuel table. The RB26 usually has a weak and sometimes unstable vacuum at idle so most tuners use TP as the main load axis. They then normally use the Open loop lambda target table to enrich under boost conditions and often a 4D table is not even required. Sometimes just a few cells in high boost areas requires 4D correction. If you can post a log of the car idling we can take a look and see if there is any opportunity to improve what you have without a complete re-map.

A quick copy/paste hack sorry... Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

You basically have it right. If your ECU is a "plugin" then you will need the CANPCB cable. If it is a wire-in ecu then you wont need that part. I suggest you avoid the CANDASH cable as that can disrupt PC connectivity. You may or may not need an extra connector/cable depending on which ECU you have. If you post what ECU you have I will give a little more info on what you will need or do a diagram tomorrow. Note you can buy new OBDII sockets with the terminals etc very cheap from many places: http://www.ebay.com/itm/302104260956 You will also need to run 12V & Gnd to the OBD socket:

It looks to me like Aux 18 is only capable of low side drive (will only send out a Ground) so that wont work with your wiring (the help file suggests it should be capable of highside but I think that comment is wrong at least with the present firmware). If you can move it to Aux 5-8 they are capable of High side drive so will then work with out re-wiring. If you want to stick with using Aux 18 then you will need ignition switched +12V supplied to pin 86.

Ok should work then - assuming your FP relay is expecting a ground signal to switch it on. Have you tried setting the Aux to "Test (On) mode? You can also set up a digital gauge or view the runtimes screen to make it easier to see what state Aux 18 is in like so: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPjDytZYLmVxZe_Shh

Your theory is sound but it wont work with your generic trigger setup. Since your trigger 2 sync mode is set to "cam pulse 1x", the ECU will only sync after it has seen a cam pulse. The other problem with our ECU (and most aftermarket ECU's) is they will only start firing from No1 cylinder, so even if you did achieve sync earlier, the ECU would still not start firing until No1 cylinder comes around again. For your interest though, many OEM trigger systems do work the way you describe - by using unique patterns on the crank it can work out crank position much faster then as soon as it knows what the crank position is it will look for certain edges or levels on the cam and will have 720 sync right away. From there some ECU's will instantly start firing the next scheduled cylinder while others less sophisticated just switch to batch fire/wasted spark mode and start firing when the first No 1 TDC comes around next (regardless of which stroke). I have a feeling our "Cam level" sync mode may sync within 360deg but I would have to confirm that with engineering as I dont know for sure. The easiest solution for you will just be to turn off trigger 2, then it will sync within 360deg with no hardware changes.

All data we have shows the PS switch "floats" when steering wheel is not moving and goes to 0V when the wheel is turned. AN Volt 5 has a pullup to 5V fitted on this ECU so that the ECU will see a 0-5V signal. Set the Error high to 5V and error low to 0V. It should just work and you shouldnt have to mess with anything. The PS switch is used to keep the idle speed more consistent by opening the idle valve a little more when PS is active.

Yes the reason is with PC Logging it is unlimited memory and you can log all parameters. With ECU logging you can only log 100 parameters an if you log all of those at full speed it will burn through the memory pretty quick. As we dont know what is the cause of your problem we dont know which parameters to log so you may not capture the problem. Can you not strap a laptop in somewhere?

Start with a log then either post it here or pass it on to your tuner to take a look. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Note the drivers for Aux 17-20 need to powered from pin D1 to function correctly (even for doing a normal low side drive), I suspect this is your problem if you havent got this pin connected to +14V.

A quick video. No audio but I think it will still help: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPjDs8krgcWJjY-NaB Also we have a video on youtube which is for our old G4 software but you will probably much of the look and feel similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hb04S07IA0&t=6s

Hi Brett, If you load your current map into a ECU with the newest firmware in it then all the new features such as the extra Virtual auxes will show automatically. If you dont have a powered up ecu to do that with yet then you could email me the map and I will do it. There is no way to easily "combine 2 maps into one although you can open 2 instances of PCLink side by side and copy settings quite easily. All tables can be copy/paste or export/import.

In the VTS software there is already a S13 base map. This will be a very close starting point. You will only need to change the master fuel to allow for the larger injectors and check/set the base timing.

Oh dear, the trigger doesnt sound nice at all... The LS1 has a odd 24 tooth trigger on the crank and a long tooth on the cam sprocket. The G4 Storm is capable of using the stock trigger and it is commonly used. Be aware you will need both cam and crank sensors connected to use the "LS1" trigger mode. The wiring is in the help file: I dont have much to offer on wiring a wideband but if you tell us what sort of wideband controller you have or are intending to get I can help guide you. For an output based on coolant temp the two options would be either a PWM (for instance to vary fan speed based on ECT) or on/off type output (say to switch on a fan above a certain temp). What did you want to do with this aux?

Image below is what PCLink help file shows but that seems to match what is in my copy of the paper manual. Can you confirm if there is something wrong with this: The CAN socket pinout is missing from the help file at present and I believe that was planned to be in the next release. This is the best I can do tonight:

The quickest way to find the cause will be to do a PC Log with all parameters recorded. Start logging with E-throttle in setup mode, move throttle a little, then set to "on" mode, move throttle a little again, hopefully error occurs then stop logging and attach that and your map here. How to do PC Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

The OEM "spec C" sensor and the OEM V9 ECT uses the std Bosch NTC calibration.

yes.

Go for a short drive while doing a PC log, include a couple of good stabs on the throttle if you can. Attach that and your map here so we can see if there are any clues of what is causing the error. It could be some bad wiring or a sensor starting to fail or just a bad calibration etc, it is hard to guess without some data. How to do PC Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

No, you must be looking at DI input calibration. For your car where the wheel speed comes in via CAN bus you only have a % adjustment. So if your speedometer is now reading 5% too fast then you put -5% in the driven wheel speed correction % field.

Normally idle is the last thing you tune. You will need most of the other tables in the ecu fully tuned before you will be able to achieve a reasonable idle. The general method is to set idle to open loop mode and just adjust the whole base position table up or down until the valve is open enough to keep it running. Then tune all other tables, then go back and tune idle last.