Adamw

Hi Ahizou, Your trigger 1 appears upside down compared to normal K20a. Can you try setting trig 1 edge to falling, like this:

There is no way to adjust for a non-linear tachometer. You will have to pick a multiplier that gives you the best compromise of error at high and low RPM.

Screen shot to show where you find the fault settings. Try it at 0 & 5V to eliminate them for now.

A base map is designed to get an engine running only and it must be tuned from there, so it is unlikely any base map you find will work any better than what you already have. Attached is another variation you can try. mr2 another try.pcl

The trigger scope that you posted earlier appears to match our "S52" trigger mode. Set it up like below: You will need to use a timing light to determine the trigger offset. Although I think it will still work ok in this case, your waveform on trigger 2 looks a bit distorted, I have seen this before with a S50B32 and it was caused bolt heads behind the cam sprocket too close to the sensor. You might have to change those bolts to stainless or maybe machine the heads smaller or something if it causes trigger errors. It should look more like this:

There is a ST185 base map supplied with the software:

Your ECU will do the E-throttle. For the base map the 1UZ will be the best we can offer. I think from memory however the trigger pattern is different on the 3UZ but I cant find any info on it right now. It is a holiday in NZ today so @Simon might confirm tomorrow if he knows.

If you are talking about a potentiometer then go for a 5 or 10Kohm, also make sure it is linear and not logarithmic. Having said that, depending you want to do with this you might be better going for a "multipoisiton rotary switch" so that you have some detents is known positions.

Yes a log will be helpful. Also post a copy of your .pclr so we can take a look at your present limiter settings.

Unfortunately I cant see enough detail in the photo. Can you please do the trigger scope again then "save as log". attach the .llg file here.

Trigger looks ok, so I wouldnt bother looking much closer at that yet. Even though your post says "lots of smoke and rich raw fuel smell from the exhaust", you have a very short pulsewidth at idle so it could be that the injectors are working in a non-linear region causing the swinging AFR. As per JMP's suggestion - bumping up the Master fuel would soon confirm that. Two other things that stood out to me: The Log shows MAP at idle of 30KPa, that seems unrealistic for a poor running engine. I would expect it to be more like 45-65, so I suggest you check the calibration of the MAP sensor against a known good gauge.You are on old firmware, I suggest you upgrade to the latest.When I open your .pclr, it says "ecu disabled", I didnt think it would run like that so I suspect this flag is in error but can you confirm that this ECU has been unlocked?

That doesnt sound right at all. This number should normally be set somewhere around where your injectors start to behave erratically, usually this will be <1.5ms. This means there is more fuel going in than the ECU is calculating. It could be many things, but most likely one of your injector settings such as flow rate or rated pressure, actual fuel pressure is greater than you think, or perhaps something like MAP sensor calibration is incorrect. Since you appear to have 30-40% more VE than expected you have something fairly wrong.

The Minimum pulse width setting is "effective", this means that latency is not included. Final "actual" PW = min effective PW + latency

No they work happily together side by side. I would suggest however when you install PC Link G4, near the end of the installation you will see a USB driver installer pop up, just cancel that. You already have more recent drivers installed (from G4+ software) so you dont want to overwrite them with older ones.

You cannot use PC Link G4+ on a old G4 ecu. The last version of PC Link G4 was V4.10.2, this is what you will need. You can download that from the support section of our website.

Please post a trigger scope like Simon asked for earlier then no one has to guess what your engine has. Here is a video (poor quality sound sorry) how to use the triggerscope feature: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPjDE8OgHfIlphsFpR Also I dont see it mentioned above, what do you have for coils and ignitors?

I dont know how the stock wiring works in that car but from your symptoms it seems that the 12V side of the boost solenoid does not shut off with ignition. When you turn off ignition the 12V then backfeeds through solenoid into the the aux output and keeps the ECU partially alive. The only fix will be to power that solenoid from a source that switches on and off with ignition. A possible reason the problem only surfaced when you swapped valves was that the OEM solenoid was higher resistance so not enough current could backfeed through it.

I am assisting Gordie through our tech support system. From logs it appears to be either a motor or ecu hardware problem. I have given him some test to try.

As per Simons post above, our ecu's donot support a 3+1 trigger pattern. You will have to change to a trigger wheel with a supported pattern.

First the easy one; The S13 plugin wasnt designed with E-throttle in mind so doesnt have any of the correct pins brought out to the main header, however if your plugin has the G4+ Xtreme top board the hardware at least is capable of E-throttle with some modification. If you want to explore that more you can contact and we can give you an idea of what it will cost. The rest of your question will take some long head scratching but I dont really have time tonight. I'll come back to take a look tomorrow if no one else answers in the meantime.

We dont have one sorry. We also do not have any info on the trigger that this engine uses. Can you take a photo of the triggers?

I dont think there is much wrong with the warm up and accel tables, they should work fine as they are even if something has changed a little they look realistic enough. No, no and no im sorry to report. It looks to me like the damage was done before you got to save the map. What caused that I dont know but there is now no way to know what values it had in it before it was damaged. I still think it is most likely the axis on the fuel table that we havent quite got back to how it was. The original tuner probably picked different break points than I did. I will take another look at it when I get a minute and post up another variation to try.

As a reality check I would try it independent of the ECU - what I mean by that is still use the 5V from ecu but just connect the signal wire to a multimeter or something instead or the ECU. That will eliminate any effects of analog fault settings etc adding confusion. I have a couple of those cheap Chinese sensors on my dyno for odd testing jobs that work ok but I have a vague recollection of having some drama with them when first hooking them up. I think from memory the pinout or wiring colours did not match the document that was supplied (that was quite a few years ago though). Also be aware you can get those sensors in 12V and 5V versions so there could be something amiss there too.

If you read my comment again and keep it in context you will note I said "Boost control is unlikely to see any future improvements in the G4+ platform". We are still working on many improvements and bug fixes etc in the G4+ but from what I understand to make any significant improvement to the present boost control strategy it will need a total re-write which was deemed not viable.

Yes, you can view it there. When online, in VTS, go to >help>ECU information. It wouldnt hurt to tell us the ECU type and the mainboard revision while you are at it.