Adamw

Hi Bulldozer, If your ECU is pretty new then I think you will have our new V1.7 hardware revision which has had a couple of functions shifted around to allow users to add E-throttle. These changes are not yet reflected in the help file pinout so these are probably steering you wrong. Tacho is now on Ign 5, can you set that to tacho, turn off Aux 4 and give that a try. If that doesnt work can you email me: Include a link to this thread and I will help you out.

It looks to me like the ecu is commanding the correct outputs now and the positions seem to be realistic so it almost seems like you have a mechanical or wiring issue. With ignition on, engine off, can you try putting aux 3&4 into test pwm mode and check if solenoids are clicking?

Hi Gctech, I think we might have something wrong with the code in this trigger mode as I get the same error as you do on Inlet L/H when I run this on the simulator. I found if I changed trigger 2 edge to falling I could get it to run correctly without errors. You will have to do the cam angle test again to get the correct offset. Usually from the cam angle test the smallest angle number will be the correct offset but you may have to try the other numbers as well - only one of the 3 offset will work well. For me it was the smallest number that worked correctly (others will give jumpy cam position). My triggerscope looks very similar to yours and my trigger 2 offset was about 48°. I will get the Engineering team to take a closer look at this trigger mode to see why it gives errors when set up as it was designed to be, but for now I see no problem with changing Trig 2 edge to falling.

You are on old firmware, 5.3.0, back at that time e-throttle was an option that you had to pay extra for. If you upgrade to the latest firmware all the previously "pay for" options will be enabled for free. These include Ethrottle, logging, knock control, obd2, etc.

In this G1 forum, at the top is a pinned topic "G1 manuals". There is a LEMV4 manual in there.

This is called "dwell scatter", it is normally a symptom of a trigger error/loss of engine position. You need to be careful when this is present as it probably means there are sparks happening at random times also so potential for engine damage is higher. Can you tell us more about the engine, what it has for triggers etc. Do you have access to an oscilloscope or perhaps you can borrow another G4+ that has the built in trigger scope?

Evo9 fuel pump should be setup like this: Evo8 fuel pump should be set up like this: I would use the evo8 settings on yours (i.e 2000RPM, 5%FF). Your injector settings look realistic enough to me so I wouldnt expect them to cause any major running difficulties.

I've just taken a quick look. I dont see anything too major wrong in there but have a couple of suggestions: You have an aux 4 assigned as FP speed but under the pump speed control you have that function turned off. If you are still using the stock FP controller then your pump is possibly running in low speed mode all the time. Even if you are not using the FP speed controller, you really need to test FP yourself and make sure it is right.Turn off the IAT trim table. In modelled mode air temp correction should be handled by the charge temp calculation. Right now you will have twice as much air temp correction than is needed.In accel enrichment settings your "accel hold" should be 4inj events for a cylinder sequential setup.edit: forgot to mention - does this car have mivec? I see you have an aux out set up as vvt solenoid but vvt is not set up.

There is no "minimum pulsewidth" function in the G4 from memory. Mike, if you post you map and log I will take a look. I would like to see what ign timing etc is doing in the "jerky" area.

Hi Jupe, Auxiliary output signal "specs" are as follows: 0-12V square wave, the duty cycle is user configurable (normally 50%) and there is also a user configurable "multiplier" (for calibration of tachos that are expecting a different number of pulses per rev).

I'll try your map on the simulator when I get to work later, but the first thing I notice in your screen shot above is you still have DI1 assigned to cam position. This should be turned off. LH Inlet cam position comes from the trig 2 input in this engine so there should be no DI assigned to the same function. That also means there should be nothing wired to DI1. Can you do a triggerscope also. Save it as a log file and attach it here.

Usually fuel cut is the safer option for a road car. Ignition cut can be more responsive and give faster recovery but it can also be harder on mechanical aspects. If a lot of ignition cut is used or sustained for long periods some say the large bangs in the exhaust can in some cases cause hydraulic lifters to "pump up" and is harder on items like turbine wheels and exhaust systems, etc.

From that scatter plot above it looks like your MAP at idle is about 40KPa, in the overrun areas at 1700-2500RPM MAP drops down to about 22-25KPa. Since the MAP has reduced by about 35%, then the ECU will try to reduce the pulsewidth by 35%. That doesnt quite tally with your 1.8 Vs 1.3ms but remember there are fuel table numbers and deadtimes etc influencing that as well. So yes, the pulsewidth reducing below normal idle pulsewidth during overrun is normal and expected. So what are you actually worried about? Lean displayed AFR on overrun?

Try calibration numbers 626 for the front and 611 for the rear.

If you mean "trigger offset", I would guess around 300 deg based on that diagram above.

You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store). you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

I have had one used with e85 for many years with no drama yet. Some will tell you "brass" is susceptible to corrosion with damp E85 but I have never seen any corrosion on all the brass jets etc I see inside carburetors running E85.

Turn off DI1 altogether. Your Inlet LH position should come from trig 2 when using engine. If you still get errors, go through the "cam angle test" procedure to verify the offsets are correct.

Please post a triggerscope of what it has now and we will see if it matches any of the supported patterns

Hi dp_tech, I'm not sure if this is a question or a statement? This thread was really for users to post problems related to the latest firmware, are you having some problem?

It should be fairly easy to mark that long tooth with a caliper or something and grind/file it back to the right length and you will probably find that will do everything you need. If I were going to make a new trigger wheel from scratch I would do 12T or 12-1, those seem to be a good compromise between resolution and ease of positioning/setup.

To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ. Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted. It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link". So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc. The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess. So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

As well as what Eivind has mentioned, I also notice you have charge temp approximation and IAT trim turned on. Usually you only want one or the other so turn one of those tables off for now. Your master fuel number seems high considering the size of your injectors and non-sequential, have you confirmed fuel pressure is correct? If you can provide a short log and also post the trigger scope we should be able to help more.

You could probably make the plugin work but its going to get tight with outputs and you will need to make quite a few changes to the wiring. Maybe it will be better to consider a wire-in ecu. Here is the basic changes from my quick look: On the WRX V1-2 plugin Inj 5 & 6 drives are used for the fans, so you will have to move the fans to some other aux output - maybe inj 7&8 on the expansion connector. Ign 5 & 6 arent available on this plugin so you will have to run wasted spark. You will need 2 aux outputs to drive the AVCS and these will need to be from Aux 1-4 so you will have to move some things to free these up - maybe the idle valve. Your ECU doesnt have a knock input.