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Adamw

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Everything posted by Adamw

  1. Can you do a PC Log of it idleing for a couple of minutes. Post that and a copy of your .pclr (map) here and one of us will take a look. How to do the PC log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  2. The Aux4/9/10 thing is a bit confusing on the plugin ecu's - Aux 4 & 9 share some hardware resources so they are exclusive of each other - you can only use one or the other. In the wire-in ECU's this is well hidden in the wiring info and software so it doesnt cause too much confusion, but in the plugin ECU's it isnt as well hidden since pin functions/wiring is normally fixed so users dont normally need to look too closely at the aux functions. With a plugin ECU, if E-throttle is turned on, Aux 4 in the software is actually Aux 9 on the hardware. Aux 9 in the software is actually Aux 10 in the hardware. So even though in the software it may appear like you are using Aux 4 & 9 - you are actually using 9 & 10. Clear as mud? Good... Since both the Link ecu and the OEM ecu are reporting an issue with your TP sensor, one would assume this is your problem. As an aid in diagnosing I suggest you set up a digital gauge like below. When you press accelerator from rest to WOT, you should see both TP sensors increase smoothly from 0-100% and they should read almost identical values throughout the whole range of movement. Also if you do a log of you slowly opening and closing the throttle (put e-throttle in setup mode to avoid it erroring) then email it and a copy of you map to we will take a look. How to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  3. Adamw

    suzuki TL1000

    I dont know if there are some variations of these but I found this on the web: It suggests the crank has 4 teeth with one of those being a long tooth. Can you confirm yours is like this? I think we will probably find one of the OEM trigger modes will match but I will have to ask the engineers tomorrow if it looks familiar. A long tooth with a reluctor sensor is often not a good choice with most aftermarket ECU's either since they normally use the "zero crossing" point which will be quite variable in this case. OEM's can get around this by trigger off different features in the wave form. One option would be to grind one edge of the long tooth down so that it is the same length as the others.
  4. Are you on the latest firmware? This should have been fixed recently. I dont have a Monsoon to test myself but can try tomorrow.
  5. I believe it can be done but you need a lot of aux outs. It would need to be a wire in job. Here's a little teaser of how easy it will be to work out...
  6. Adamw

    Boost creeping

    We probably dont have enough info to answer this. It could be purely a mechanical issue such as the wastegate too small or not fully opening or it could be the boost control function in the ECU set up properly. It will need to go back to the tuner to finish the job by the sounds.
  7. Adamw

    E30 SR20 help

    A 3 port is generally easier in a road car. A 4 port can give you more "increase" over spring pressure but on the down side they are often more sensitive to duty cycle so can be more difficult to tune. So my suggestion is stick with 3 port unless you want to run more than say 3 x spring pressure.
  8. So it seems likely you have a different problem.
  9. Adamw

    E30 SR20 help

    Hi Devan, This ecu will do open or closed loop boost control, you will only need a wastegate solenoid. An aftermarket "Mac" solenoid is usually easier to work with than a factory one. There is a S13-S14 base map included in PC Link software that will get you running with minimal tweaks. You will need to check all sensors read right, all outputs are assigned correctly, check base timing and adjust "fuel master" for the bigger injectors and it should be a runner. Said with a big proviso that your wiring is correct...
  10. That all looks fairly normal and as expected to me. There is not going to be much combustion happening when the throttle is closed so there will be excess oxygen in the exhaust gas. The reduction in pulse width as MAP goes lower is due to the standard "MAP compensation" that is part of the fuel equation.
  11. The Altezza uses a "BEAN" network to communicate between the various electronic modules in the car. Our plugin Altezza ECU has a BEAN comms module on board. I believe the problem with our original revision that gave the odd "1/4" fuel level increments was some data missing from the BEAN messages. Something like "instantaneous fuel consumption". If your car uses the same system then you may find other dash instruments and things like alternator light no longer work.
  12. Adamw

    Slow reacting

    For completeness sake I just dug out my weakest PC. It is a Dell venue 8 pro tablet, I think it has an Atom processor and it is pathetic in terms of processing power, it only has 2Gb ram and can take like 30 seconds to open up some web pages... To further injure its performance I am connected to the ECU via a Chinese junk OTG USB cable. Here is a short video of me messing around with the fuel table - initially with Q&A keys, then directly entered values, then math functions. I wasn't sure how I to show key presses in a video but I think it still shows it is responsive? It seems quite acceptable to me, I would certainly have no trouble tuning with it. https://adam-linkecu.tinytake.com/sf/MTU2OTI2N181MzkxMTk1
  13. You will need to rewire the coils and shuffle a few wires around to get direct spark on an evo 9. IGN3 is currently controlling the fuel pump and IGN4 controls the AC fan. You would have to move those wires to some other aux outputs and run new wires from those pins up to the coils.
  14. AN Volt 2 isnt even transmitted using this stream. Here is the channel list taken from AIM's documentation for the "CAN Bus Full" stream:
  15. Hi, At the moment the engine fan function needs to see RPM before it will activate fans. However you should be able to achieve what you want by setting the aux output up as an GP Aux rather than "engine fan". You might need to add a virtual aux into mix so you have enough conditions to allow for proper temperature hysteresis as well as the dash switch. Let me know if you need some help to set it up.
  16. Hi Ratty, This one sounds like the ECU is still staying live when you turn off ignition. Is yours the NS13+ or NS15+ ecu? Does the wiring appear to be relatively unmodified? Maybe something like an immobilizer or aftermarket fuel pump relay has been added and is not wired correctly? Once you tell us what ECU you have I will try to work out a troubleshooting plan.
  17. Hi Ivan, Sorry I missed your post here for a couple of days. Glad to hear you got it working again. For other users info, Generally what causes this is if you have an Aux output wired incorrectly it will not allow the ECU to shutdown properly during firmware update. Usually you can fix it by just unplugging the main connector to power cycle the ECU then reload firmware.
  18. Have you confirmed that it does actually draw the same current as the original? After changing, did you set up the target table so that it can actually reach target when its idle etc?
  19. Hi Ken, You didnt mention if you have a wideband or narrowband sensor connected. If it is narrowband stoich mode the lambda target table will have no effect, it will just aim to dither around the set "dither voltage". If you have a wideband sensor in stoich mode then the lambda target table will be used but this mode is still designed to oscillate the lambda either side of the target and not directly settle at the set point. In the Xtreme and above ECU's we have proper CLL "automode".
  20. Hi Gordie, I have a little more info for you. The error 84 is generally caused by the throttle motor pulling too much current. The error 73 is just a consequence of the E-throttle system being shut down by the safeties. So the usual causes of excess current and error 84: Aftermarket Throttle body?Max and Min DC clamp values too high/low.Target table set up wrong so that the throttle is always targeting a lower TP than it can achieve (due to throttle stop screw etc). Point 1 you can answer. Point 3 I can answer if you give me a log of it idling and a copy of your map. Point 2 might need some trial and error.
  21. Hi Anthony, It should be fine. Usually it is preferable to have TPS with ITB's as the unstable MAP at idle is often not a good indicator of load, but since drivability is not the priority in this case it should run ok. If your MAP signal is reasonably steady you can even change the accel enrichment to reference MAP instead of TP.
  22. Adamw

    Slow reacting

    My tuning laptop is nothing special, an old 32bit i3, with integrated graphics, I have never noticed any slow behavior like this although it is rare for me to need to adjust a whole table very often. So I just tested this for myself - I selected the whole fuel table and tried bumping it up and down using the Q & A keys, I also tried by manually typing in a new value and also doing "maths" to the whole table, in all cases the change is almost instant. This was with an engine running and PC logging running in the background at the same time. On my desktop PC it has a AMD processor with built in graphics and I have found that is a bit slower when running many channels of logging live at the same time. In that case though it seems more like a graphics "drawing" issue, the ecu updates instantly but the screen lags a little. It would still only be a fraction of a second though?
  23. Hi Gordie, I will ask Simon to take a look at this one tomorrow to see if he has any thoughts. It is not one I have seen before.
  24. Hi Ducie, I think what is happening here is its working backwards to what you expect. i.e. 100% - 62.5 = 37.5%. I think this is because you have your aux 4 polarity set to "high". Does it work as expected if you set polarity to low?
  25. If fuel pressure stayed the same under all conditions after upgrading then you would not need to change any of the tune. However this is probably unlikely depending on how good the old system was. Usually the old system was a bit marginal (otherwise you wouldnt upgrade) so you will probably find that your old fuel pressure was dropping away under high load/boost and now with the bigger pump it will probably stay closer to where it should. This will make it run richer at the top end. Usually if the regulator etc is good quality you will probably not see much difference at idle/low loads.
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