Adamw

That sounds about right, maybe a little high. Can you confirm the TPS Out jumper is in the 1:1 position:

Your fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong, it should be more like 350Kpa, not 3.0. What pressure sensor and regulator do you have? Whenever I find a fuel supply issue I do a quick return flow test to confirm where the issue is - something like below; Use a mityvac or air compressor etc to apply desired boost to the FPR reference. Pull the return line off, hang it in a bucket/bottle. Set the fuel pump prime time to 25sec, store, then power cycle ign. Measure how much fuel you have in the bucket after the 25sec prime. Multiply by 2.4 to get your approx pump flow per minute. For petrol you want a minimum of about 600cc/min per 100HP.

Yes, those coils will be no problem in direct spark or wasted spark.

That note would have been related to a G4+ ECU which had a different range of cal tables. Cal 4/5/6 would be equivalent to "Linear Cal 1/2/3" in G4X. For that sensor you can just choose the "Bosch 10Bar" pressure calibration and "Bosch Std NTC" for the temp calibration.

You need to confirm fuel pressure is correct and constant. Your MAP and Injector PW is reasonably stable when your AFR is erratic, so the variation is not coming from anything the ecu is commanding, fuel pressure would be the main external variable that can affect AFR so this needs to be confirmed first. How did you check base timing?

We dont currently have a proper MAF based fuel strategy, although you can make it work, I wouldnt bother.

See if this document helps: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXx12_StradaSpieIcone_100_eng.pdf Connection is described on page 3, and software set up on page 10 & 11. Another doc with slightly more detail of software setup: https://www.aimsports.com/webinars/Documents/FAQ_RS3_Fuel_level_101_eng.pdf If anything is not clear to you after following these documents then reply here and I will try to give more specific help.

Neither of those settings apply to G4X, the pic was probably from a G4+.

What voltage is showing on AN Volt 3 with the throttle closed?

An "E-Gate" is just a different actuator to move the valve in the wastegate, all the same principles and limitations apply as a pneumatic gate, the min and max boost you will be able to achieve will be determined by the turbo system as a whole, not just the gate. The set up and tuning of the control system will be more complex than a pneumatic gate as you now have 2 separate control loops to tune. One for the position control which will usually be done in the "black box" (ie like tuning an E-throttle so that the wastegate position follows its position target) and then the closed loop boost control part needs to be set up and tuned in the ecu just like normal.

So what is the actual problem? Can you give a clear and detailed description of what problem you are trying to solve. Originally you said the CAN lambda was "shorting to ground". I assume it isn't now? Then you said that the laptop disconnects when you try to crank? Is that still the case? Is this related to your lambda issue or a different problem? Then there was a pic of CAN errors on the run time screen? What question is this related to? Then there was a pic of a trigger scope? How is this related to the Lambda?

One was a AC Cobra kit car so the only other pieces related to the MK60 was the G/Yaw sensor. The other was a E46 race car, most OEM stuff including the dash was gone. That was 3 or 4 years back so I dont remember if it had a BCM or what else there was left on the factory bus.

I wouldnt worry about the idle control at this point, get it running correctly with stable AFR first. Have you confirmed fuel pressure? Have you set base timing? What does it have for ign coils & Ignitors?

Note you also likely have these IO unused: Inputs: AN Temp 2 & AN Volt 8 in the MAF connector. AN Temp 3 on pin C12. AN Volt 4 & 5 in the TGV plugs. AN Volt 7 in the rear O2 plug. Outputs: Aux 7 & 8 in the TGV plugs. Inj 7 in the 02 sensor plug

You need to use the original TPS wire for TP Main as that signal is also used by the diff controller. But an E-throttle has 2 TPS sensors so you will still need to run a further AN Volt and aux 9 & 10 to the throttle. Yes you can splice the 5V and ground to as many sensors as you like.

This will need to be set up by the tuner and verified with audio knock equipment after the engine is tuned.

So did you change the pinout?

The Storm doesnt have traction control, only the Xtreme and above.

Yes. That sounds like correct behaviour according to this:

The Haltech device uses a different pinout to the Link cable so that is possibly the cause of the short. You cant measure resistance of any live circuit so you cant tell anything from the resistance test.

Im not very familiar with this device, but having a quick poke around I would say you would use the enumeration widget for non-numeric gears. Something like below, with the enumeration check ? field set to: 0#1#2#3#4#5#6#7#8#P#R#N I've had a go at adding Ethanol to your map and TRI below. Eth added.TRI R32GTR1.1 Eth added.pclr

Sorry, a bit of a brain fart in that last example. Try below.

Nothing special needed in terms of processing power for either of those ECU's. The only thing I cant confirm is if the M84 software works in win 11, I remember it had some issues when win 10 first came out that has since be solved. Make sure screen res is at least 1366 x 768, preferably 1920 x 1080 as it allows you to make much more useful layout pages. Solidstate drives are pretty much standard nowadays but make sure the options you are considering do have one. My usual advice is to base the decision more on factors such as battery life, screen size & resolution, screen visibility in sunlight and the types of ports available and their location. Most cars I tune are right hand drive for example, so a laptop that only has USB ports on the RH side would be a major pain in the ass for me. The arrow and PgUp/Dn keys get a lot of use in PC Link so their location and size is always a consideration I make, I especially dislike when those are combined with other keys. A number pad is nice but typically only available on >15.6 sizes, I prefer the size/portabilty balance of 14" now. No idea of your budget etc, but for the last year or so I have been using an Asus UM425QA, and this ticks a lot of boxes for me. Nice and thin/light and the best battery life I have ever had, they quote 15hrs which is probably a stretch but I get about 8-10hrs tuning with the screen brightness near max and the video card settings in performance mode. It is not particularly sturdy so may not be a good choice for everyone.

In E46 BMW's I have had the MK60 ABS working fine with no CAN at all and wheel speeds work fine using either the mini stream or a custom stream. So it sounds like you are missing something else. Does the ABS actually work when you lock a wheel?