Jump to content

Adamw

Moderators
  • Content Count

    9,632
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    520

Reputation Activity

  1. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Vaughan in Driven Up Shift Ignition TRIM (absolute degree option??))   
    @Vaughan I think he's saying he wants that absolute option in gear shift control.
  2. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Knox in Gear ratio calibration   
    Seems to work as expected for me.  Example below 6613RPM/150.8kph= 43.85 = close enough to 43.83RPM/kph gear ratio calc reported.

     
     
  3. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Stillrolla in TST205X - Wiring Question   
    Pin 23 is Sensor ground.   For the E-throttle module you can use Aux 1&2, 3&4 or 9&10.
  4. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from SkyEyes in Link between tacho and coil status?   
    Yep that is normal.  I havent asked anyone to get an explanation direct from the horses mouth, but based on my very crude understanding my guess would be when changing the ignition mode the processosor that does all the degrees based engine processing (eTPU) does some kind of re-initialise and the tacho sweep is probably run as part of its initialisation sequence.
  5. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from UK Lee in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    3 wire pressure sensors you can usually share the signal - so for instance the one oil pressure sensor could be connected to both the gauge and the ecu.  You will potentially lose a little accuracy as the sensor is not referencing the ECU 5V or sensor ground but for oil pressure high accuracy is not usually critical.  It is useful to have both fuel and oil pressure in the ecu as you can use them for engine protection strategies as well as fuel pressure compensation in the tune.
    For your oil temp sensor it could possibly be shared but you will have to do a bench test to confirm the pull up voltage that the gauge uses.  So power the Oil temp gauge up on the bench, (no sensor pluged in) measure the voltage accross the temp temp sensor wires.  If it is 5V you can share the signal with the ecu (direct to AN Volt, no pull-up needed), if it is 12V you cant use it. 
    As for the question about why the pull-up is needed for the oil temp sensor:  There are two types of analog inputs - Temp inputs and Voltage inputs.  The temp inputs are designed to be connected to a resistance type sensor so they have a 5V 1kohm pull-up connected inside the ecu.  The volt inputs are designed to be connected to a sensor that is powered and outputs its own voltage so these inputs dont have a pull-up.  But your drawing didint originally show the oil temp sensor was also going to be connected to a gauge (which would have a pull-up built in) so if the oil temp is connected to both ecu and a gauge then the external pull-up in the ecu wiring would not be needed.
     
  6. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Vaughan in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    3 wire pressure sensors you can usually share the signal - so for instance the one oil pressure sensor could be connected to both the gauge and the ecu.  You will potentially lose a little accuracy as the sensor is not referencing the ECU 5V or sensor ground but for oil pressure high accuracy is not usually critical.  It is useful to have both fuel and oil pressure in the ecu as you can use them for engine protection strategies as well as fuel pressure compensation in the tune.
    For your oil temp sensor it could possibly be shared but you will have to do a bench test to confirm the pull up voltage that the gauge uses.  So power the Oil temp gauge up on the bench, (no sensor pluged in) measure the voltage accross the temp temp sensor wires.  If it is 5V you can share the signal with the ecu (direct to AN Volt, no pull-up needed), if it is 12V you cant use it. 
    As for the question about why the pull-up is needed for the oil temp sensor:  There are two types of analog inputs - Temp inputs and Voltage inputs.  The temp inputs are designed to be connected to a resistance type sensor so they have a 5V 1kohm pull-up connected inside the ecu.  The volt inputs are designed to be connected to a sensor that is powered and outputs its own voltage so these inputs dont have a pull-up.  But your drawing didint originally show the oil temp sensor was also going to be connected to a gauge (which would have a pull-up built in) so if the oil temp is connected to both ecu and a gauge then the external pull-up in the ecu wiring would not be needed.
     
  7. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Vaughan in Link between tacho and coil status?   
    Yep that is normal.  I havent asked anyone to get an explanation direct from the horses mouth, but based on my very crude understanding my guess would be when changing the ignition mode the processosor that does all the degrees based engine processing (eTPU) does some kind of re-initialise and the tacho sweep is probably run as part of its initialisation sequence.
  8. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from kurosiba fuku in G4X GTR plugin. Not able to connect. *SOLVED*   
    Try completely unplugging the ecu from the car for a minute.  The only time I have seen bootmode on a G4X was when a backfeed prevents the ECU from fully powering off.  If that doesnt help then contact tech support.
  9. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from DenisAlmos in WRX 2.5L - Full throttle lean spike fueling issue under low loads   
    Yes, if the fuel table has been tuned using a lambda with a significantly wrong calibration, the the fuel table will need to be re-tuned.
  10. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from UK Lee in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    A couple of extra comments from me too.  Although yours is more drawn as a schematic than a wiring diagram, so your intent may be not be to wire as drawn - but if the coils a 3 wire only, then that single ground should be grounded to the cyl head - not back to the ecu.  
    Also, the CAN lambda, since it is connected to a "noisy" power source, I would suggest adding the 22uf cap into its power supply/connector.  
    For basic 4 cyl installs you can also get away with just a single power supply relay for everything, so you can do that if you want to simplify.  
    I have attached a generic 4cyl drawing.
    Monsoon-4-Cyl-Generic (2).pdf
    As for the question about grounds, I would prefer both to the same point.  Can you show me this IO table that you downloaded - I cant see that comment in any of our current documentation.  
    I think the "WCU" was meant to be "ECU".
  11. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from UK Lee in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    Yeah I agree, not great wording on my part.  What I was trying to cover is if those particular coils only have a single ground pin or multiple.  Probably K20 coils with 3 wires if I were to hazard a guess. 
    Some coils have more than a single ground wire - and when they do they are usually connected to circuits that are better to be kept as separate loops.   For instance the common IGN1a, they have 3 isolated grounds - secondary winding ground goes to cyl head, primary winding ground goes to batt neg, logic ground goes to ecu sensor ground.  They would usually work fine all connected to the same point, but will be more tolerant to noise and will be more resistant to false triggers if done separately.
    In this case if they are 3 wire coils, I would typically run the ground wire from each coil separately to the ground point, but then all crimped into a single eyelet at the cyl head.
  12. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from UK Lee in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    Ok, that looks like an old one.  Here is the current:  http://linkecu.com/documentation/MonsoonXQuickstartGuide.pdf
  13. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from UK Lee in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    It is connected to the same power supply as coils and injectors and idle valve, these are all inductive devices so every time they turn off they send a high voltage spike back down the wire, sometimes as high as a couple of hundred volts.  The CAN lambdas are particularly sensitive to these inductive spikes.  
    The CAN lambda quick start guide shows 2 alternative diagrams.  The first one uses its own relay connected directly to the battery (the battery will filter out a lot of these spikes).  The alternative diagram shows it powered from the ECU relay like you have here so it uses a 22uF capacitor added acroos the power wires (this filters the spikes).  Pic below.
    Since you have an aftermarket tacho it will be fine connected direct to the ECU.  Escorts originally have a "High voltage" tacho that would not work connected direct to the ecu which is what Vaughan was informing.

    For your oil temp sensor connected to AN V4, you will need to add an external pull-up resistor to 5V like below.

  14. Like
    Adamw reacted to dx4picco in Faults   
    That is pretty common to get such codes when the ecu is powered up with not all sensor connected. 
    Did you already do a "reset" Of the codes and they came back? 
    If not that would be the first thing to do. They may be older codes. 
  15. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Vaughan in Wiring a Link Monsoon G4x to a Cosworth YB engine - I've created a schematic but is it correct ?   
    Yeah I agree, not great wording on my part.  What I was trying to cover is if those particular coils only have a single ground pin or multiple.  Probably K20 coils with 3 wires if I were to hazard a guess. 
    Some coils have more than a single ground wire - and when they do they are usually connected to circuits that are better to be kept as separate loops.   For instance the common IGN1a, they have 3 isolated grounds - secondary winding ground goes to cyl head, primary winding ground goes to batt neg, logic ground goes to ecu sensor ground.  They would usually work fine all connected to the same point, but will be more tolerant to noise and will be more resistant to false triggers if done separately.
    In this case if they are 3 wire coils, I would typically run the ground wire from each coil separately to the ground point, but then all crimped into a single eyelet at the cyl head.
  16. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from pugsparked in Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows   
    I assume you mean 500Kbit/s.  You can use any bit rate you like.  My example was 250Kbit just because my dyno connection works better at that speed.  
  17. Thanks
    Adamw got a reaction from Volcom86 in WRX 2.5L - Full throttle lean spike fueling issue under low loads   
    Yes, if the fuel table has been tuned using a lambda with a significantly wrong calibration, the the fuel table will need to be re-tuned.
  18. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Mot in R32 GT-R G4+ to G4X upgrade , won't start   
    Yep, that is a 300Z ecu, I can just see the "Z" before the Link.  

     
    So someone has changed the wiring in your car to make the 300Z ecu work.  It would be best to change it back to factory, but if I have had enough coffee this morning I think a quick fudge of the firing order may allow it to run.
    Try changing the firing order to 123456 like below and see if it starts.

     
  19. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from SDHVW in EJ25 N/A non runner   
    Have you checked base timing with a timing light?  Please attach your map an a log of it cranking.
  20. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Nick nicholas in Toyota 36-2-2-2 Dvvt   
    Please attach a log and a trigger scope
  21. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Ttpcar in The electronic throttle relay is moving by itself.   
    Ah, it looks like you may have trigger 2 set to hall effect.  Can you change it to reluctor and try again.
  22. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Adoom in Another question about speed signals and speedos   
    The 350Z abs sensor Im pretty sure is a magnetoresistive type so will be a major ball ache to make it work.  Usually you can make them work but you have to experiment a lot with different voltage supplies, pull-ups, pull-downs etc.  
  23. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from SDHVW in EJ25 NA Fuel table help.   
    The V9 fuel table will probably be the closest if you have no TGV.  If you have TGV the the V10 fuel table will prob be better (will need 4D table as well with TGV).
    I've attached you map below with V9 fuel table imported and the boost cells removed.
    SubaruEJ253COASTVWEthrottlepossible V1.1.pclr
  24. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from Volcom86 in WRX 2.5L - Full throttle lean spike fueling issue under low loads   
    I think that has just masked the issue a bit.  Since your base fuel pressure setting was 300Kpa, but you actually have more like 345kpa, when you change to "MAP referenced mode" the ecu thinks your fuel pressure is lower and just increases pulse width all over.  
    I dont really see any obvious signs that your fuel pressure regulator or fuel pressure sensor isnt working correctly.  Differential pressure appears to be well controlled during transients.  
    In the pic below the original log is the coloured lines, and we are looking at the same lean spot area as you pointed out originally above.  The overlayed pink lines are from the new log, the closest operating conditions I can find (MAP is just a tiny bit higher).
    You will notice in the pink traces the ecu thinks the differential pressure has dropped to 300kpa, so it has increased the injector PW from the original 2.89ms up to 3.62ms, but if we look at the pink lambda trace there is still a lean spike in exactly the same area - just not as bad since you have like an extra 30% PW going in.  You will notice the pink lambda trace is richer pretty much everywhere.  

  25. Like
    Adamw got a reaction from HaveYouSeenAWizardSleep in Honda K24 Link Monsoon   
    The base map shows exhaust cam connected to trigger 2 and inlet cam connected to DI1.  There is wiring info in the help file, I will attach below.  If you are using a factory loom you will need the relay for the vtec solenoid as shown in the diagram below (since factory ecu switches 12V side), if you are making your own loom then you can do it without the extra relay, connect it direct to an aux output and the other side of the solenoid to +12V.    
    Oh, be aware also, Im pretty sure the K24 crank sensor pinout is different than the K20, so you need to research that yourself.

     
     
×
×
  • Create New...