Adamw

There appear to be a few variations but it looks like the security light is controlled by pin 39 in the connector at the back of the cluster.  It is a brown/red wire in this diagram.  This would probably be the easiest place to disconnect as the other end can go to either the BCM or keyless entry module depending on options. 

The 2012-2014 models arent yet fully supported as I haven't been able to find a car locally to test.   CEL and airconditioning in some regions wont currently work in these cars.  I have been working remotely with a couple of US dealers when they have access to this year model but I haven't yet been able to figure it out.  So this will likely be fixed with a future update.  The security/immobiliser lamp doesnt work in the key start models that have the separate immobiliser, this is common with any aftermarket ecu in these cars.  The factory ecu and immobiliser ECU has an encrypted serial coms and they need to be "paired" with a dealer level tool.  The lamp could be disabled by pulling a wire out of the plug at the back of the cluster.  Hill assist will likely just be the missing clutch switch.  You can try assigning the clutch switch function to a math block and leave the equation empty, if that doesnt work, try 1 as the equation.    

This one should match:

To make it easy to get started on the forum each user gets a small storage allowance to allow them to attach log files, tune files and pictures to their post.  When you have used up that allowance and try to attach a file you will get an error message stating your file is too large to upload.  The way forward is to upload the file to an online drive service and use a share link to the file.  Google Drive and Onedrive are probably the most common free options in western countries so I have done a quick guide on those two here.  
There are many other options such as Dropbox, iCloud, WeTransfer, etc that usually follow a similar process.
How to share a file using Google Drive and Onedrive.mp4

The narrow band sensors are connected but unless you have a catalytic converter and need to meet emissions requirements they wont be used.
As for E85 cold start, ethanol has a very low vapour pressure, what that means is at low temperatures it produces very little vapour, it doesnt have the highly volatile components to create vapour that petrol does.  You need vaporised fuel for combustion, liquid fuel will not combust.   You can in theory get a little more vapour by just adding more liquid but you get to a point where that no longer helps or starts to even make matters worse.  I dont know the reason for that - whether it is a saturation thing or ignition difficulty or something else Im not sure.  
For acceptable cold start with E85 you need to generate as much vapour as you can.  The biggest problem I see is usually no consideration of the injector at all, many of the modified injectors have the diffuser plate completely cut off etc and flow more like a garden hose than a mist.  A few considerations; You need injectors with very good fine atomisation, the finer the droplet, the more surface area you have exposed to air.  A spray pattern suitable for the port - ie dual cone for 16V engines etc.  Smaller injectors at the highest pressure possible is better than larger injectors and normal pressure.  Injector timing should be moved later when cold so that the bulk of the injection occurs when intake port velocity is highest - EOI around 200BTDC.  In countries like Brazil where they use E100 in everything they actually use heated injectors to overcome this issue.   

If you want to remove a tooth from the cam and run multitooth mode then either tooth will be fine.  
However if you are happy to remove the cam wheel for modification then my suggestion would be to just shorten the longest "tooth" as per my pic below.  This would then work with Evo 7-9 trigger mode which would give better resolution than multitooth mode. 
It is a bit hard to see in this pic but the two teeth are marked with red, we want to shorten the trailing end of the longest tooth so it is about 90deg long (currently it is about 140deg long). 

 
What we are trying to achieve is in the scope we want the 2nd trig 2 edge to fall when trig 1 is high.  Green trace below is current signal, red would be how it looks after cutting. 

Kia Ora, 

Those threads are not intended for mounting purposes.

The Voodoo Pro uses a FIPG (form In Place Gasket). This could make separating the enclosure very hard for service technicians. The threads you are looking at are jacking threads. They are used to jack the enclosure apart without damaging the enclosure.

The thread is M7x1.0. It is intentionally chosen to be obscure so that people don't easily have hardware on hand and this reduces the chances of people accidentally jacking their enclosures apart, damaging the seal and the M3 threads that hold it together.  

The Voodoo Pro is intended to be mounted using screws from the top down and accommodates Metric (M5) and imperial (3/16 or #10) socket screws. As Adam correctly mentioned earlier, there are also M5x0.8 blind threads on the sides of the Voodoo Pro that can be used for mounting. While technically possible, it is not intended or recommended to use the M7X1.0 threads for mounting.

You'll see future products from Link that also have these jacking threads. 

Sorry that this has caused you problems. It was not expected that people would want to mount Bottom-Up, as Top-Down is more commonly easy to access. We thought we'd covered it well by including both face (Top-Down) and side mounting options. 

Obviously, it's too late for Voodoo Pro, but is there a large desire from the community to use Bottom-Up mounting on future products?   
Now you have me worried. What fastener have you used? 

Below is all we have available as GP IO in the mini CAN stream.  Im not sure if "DSC switch" on CAN DI5 is the traction switch or not.  
Cruise control is an odd PWM protocol that we dont know much about, our test car didnt have cruise. 
As far as I know fuel consumption is already transmitted as per the factory ecu.   

This is intentional as dx4picco suggests.  LTFT will not be "learning" when CLL is disabled, but the learned trim from the table will always be applied.  There is a "disable input" in the LTFT settings that you can use to disable both learning and the trim under any conditions you think it is not wanted.  

You should read the help page; PCLink G5 User Manual > User Interface > Layouts and Views > Views to get a more complete answer, but as a quick comment, if you want more than one settings view then you need to lock the existing one (click the padlock at the top left corner of the view).  Further, if you want 2 copies of the same table (for example one in tabular view and one in surface view) then lock the first one and shift click to add the second. 
You can also hold down ctrl when clicking a ecu settings tree menu to get the whole menu in one settings view.  

I have made some changes to your map, you can use the file compare function to see the changes.  Mostly the dog unload stage is too long, this only needs to be just long enough to get the dogs unlocked, usually about 20ms.  I also changed some of your ecu log settings as some important channels were not logged and some were logged too slow to allow gear shift tuning.  
If you can provide a new log of some gear shifts using this map then we can probably suggest some further improvements.  Most likely we can change to gear position for end shift mode and use shaft speed matching to get a nicer closed loop shift.  
EG6 Gear Shift V5.pclx

[email protected]

I think splicing into a wheel speed sensor will likely work in this car, It will depend on how sophisticated their fault checking is and whether the -ve is isolated from ground or not (the diagnostics manual suggests it is not isolated).  
The easiest access is probably in the main ABS unit connector.  Pin 9 is the FL wheel speed signal, try splicing into this and connect it to a spare DI on the ECU.  In the ecu software, set FL wheel speed to the DI you connected it to, make sure the pull-up is off, set the calibration to say 1000 as a starting point and go for a drive to see if you get a speed reported in the ecu and no ABS lights on the dash.  
If that works then report back and I will give further info on how to get the speed signal to the dash.  

 

0% would mean the mixture map would only use any sample that was measured when the engine was operating in the exact centre of the cell.  100% would mean the measurement would be used any time the engine was operating anywhere in the cell (this means there is potentially a lot of influence from adjacent untuned cells).  About 30% would be a decent compromise for road tuning.  
 
Be aware the filters are used to specify what data to "include".  If you want to filter out transients then make sure the "<" operator is selected.
 
What do you mean by "it does not work"?  Does the idle speed not increase or decrease if you change base position?  If not I would pull the valve off and check the brass barrel freely moves, the bosch ones are prone to seizing if they have been sitting around.  When un-powered they should sit partially open (say less than 1mm crack), it should push fully open easily with a screwdriver, and when you let go it should spring back to "nearly closed" position on its own with no help.  If it doesnt move free you can usually free them up by spraying CRC or similar through it and working the barrel backwards and forwards.
If it isn't seized and you can change idle speed then attach your tune and a log.

It's like extracting blood from a stone sometimes...
What version/year/model WRX? Does it have traction control and DSC?  And is it a plug-in ecu or wire-in?

I think the main problem is your firing order table, it should be set like this:

 
I would also change the trigger mode to the "Chev LS2/LS7 (90 offset)" mode, as the existing one wont reliably sync during cranking.  This wouldnt make it run incorrectly, but sometimes you would probably find it will just crank but not start.  
 
The following arent related to your problem, but a few suggested changes from our LS3 to give you a better starting point:
Set your accel fuel up like this:

 
Idle control:

 
 

Below is all we have available as GP IO in the mini CAN stream.  Im not sure if "DSC switch" on CAN DI5 is the traction switch or not.  
Cruise control is an odd PWM protocol that we dont know much about, our test car didnt have cruise. 
As far as I know fuel consumption is already transmitted as per the factory ecu.   

Our test car was a 2.0JDM GRB, dead stock including air box, MAF, exhaust, injectors and top mount IC.  
I never got around to removing the injectors to characterise properly so there could be some deadtime error baked into the tune which would consequently bake some error into the test you do for the fuel charge cooling coeff, so I cant say for sure that is representative.  Be aware injector spray pattern affects charge cooling a lot also.  having said that, the fuel control was quite stable in that car, the long-term fuel trims would average around +/-3% whenever I looked at them over different seasons and varied driving conditions.   I mostly ran the Mobil 98 in that car.  
I use the test described in the help file for the charge cooling coeff to approximate both the deadtimes and the charge cooling.  Ideally you need to do this on the dyno while holding steady and light load to get the PW up around 2ms where things are linear, I then set lambda target to 1.0, set the fuel table so it is flat around the operating area and lambda is sitting close to 1.0.  Then change the lambda target to 0.95, note how much measured lambda changes, then change target to 1.05 and again note measured lambda.  If it overshoots/undershoots the target significantly more on one side of 1.0 than the other, then the charge cooling needs adjustment.  Tweak that and try again until you get a similar amount of over/under correction when you step the target leaner or richer from 1.0.  Then do the same but tweak the deatime with each test until the measured lambda no longer over/undershoots a change in target.  This sounds complicated but its really only about 15mins work once you get the hang of it and have everything set up to display and adjust all on the one page.
The charge temp approximation table worked well in that car with the top mount, I dont think a front mount would change it significantly unless the manifold gets significantly cooler with the top mount removed.  We were using the stock JDM sti IAT location beside the throttle.
 
 

Trig 2 should be set to cam pulse 1X.  You dont need to "sync" the cam sensor, just adjust the trigger offset until a timing light shows the correct timing.  

We dont offer a plug-in ECU for this model and dont have any info on the CAN bus either so unfortunately Link dont have an easy solution.  
I vaguely remember one of our dealers in Switzerland has fitted a Link ECU to a Megane RS and was reverse-engineering some of the CAN bus I think but im not sure what model and if he had all road car functionality or if it was a race car.  I will see if @mapper can confirm.

I had an email from HTG in June 2021 and I said yes we would be happy to set up either a predefined stream or templates etc as well as offer any info or setup instructions for documentation, he said he would get his developer to come back to me with what they wanted but I haven't heard anything since.  
I have helped a few people set up the basic comms before so can probably help you.  

Correct the serial dash connection is no longer supported as this was not customisable and very few modern dashes or loggers offer serial input anymore.  You can use any of the CAN adapters listed in the realdash manual including the meatpi.
https://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

Yes, any DI's can be used for switches.  You cant currently have both stationary launch and latched launch set up the same time, but you can use a GP limit table to achieve the stationary launch.
The CAN lambda needs to be wired to a CAN port, there are 2 CAN ports on the Evo9 ecu.  

Yeah the pull-up is the problem.  Swap AN Temp 3 with AN temp 1 or 2 as you can turn the tull-up off on those two.