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Locknar

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    Langley BC

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  1. Even though its off the crank driven oil pump? Tried it both ways and I get a trigger error, while cranking it says counting though, rpm and rotation are good. 280zx pert.pclx
  2. Grounded pert plate direct to the engine block. Now we are talking.
  3. No noticeable difference, I could get a resistor and wire it in to lower the over all voltage? I would just treat is a ballast resistor and follow the wiring pertronix lays out for a resistor correct? or would I just put in line with the power wire
  4. I second guessed myself, can't thank you enough for putting up my cluelessness Also, its midnight and I just got home and could kiss you. Could only crank it a few times before the misses murders me, but finally!!! Adam I cannot thank you enough for timely response and insights, it is people like you that make Link such an amazing company
  5. Hey there, sorry for the delay was waiting on parts and time. I ended up converting it to a pertronix hall effects as it was a more feasible undertaking in a home garage. Pertronix #1761 And the pertronix 3 ohm coil that goes with it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-1761 Ive the atom to hall effects, 6 tooth as their is 6 lil mag stripes, hooked the red+ on the pertronix to the black trigger 1 wire, and the black pert to the white trigger ground but still nothing I carried out the pert bench test (pic attached) and saw the voltage fluctuate while I spun the mag wheel. I find it odd that trigger two shows up on the scope test when it is depinned from the harness too. Thoughts?
  6. After more digging I can get the pictured pick up coil, seems to have the same screw pattern as the NA dizzy, I should be able to remove my existing stator and put the new pick up and get a timing wheel instead of the reluctor In your mind does that sound like a good plan instead of struggling with the existing pickup coil? link to said part https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40296&cc=1209406&pt=7176&jsn=441 Thanks
  7. Sadly they are unicorns, from the turbo l28 and are next to impossible. But I'm not worried, I'll grab a fresh battery and see if I can up the crank speed. I am happy to have a second set of eyes on it to make sure I didn't goof something up badly. I'll play with it this week and let you know where I land Thanks again
  8. Alright, I will try to get it pulled tomorrow, I am starting to think its not compatible, I cannot find any info either even after hours of reading manuals/forums/any thing I could find. I might have to swap over to COP setup. Thanks for the speedy response as always
  9. Hey Adam, Sorry to be a pest, I cannot get a trigger reading to save my life, I got delayed because the breaker plate assembly was broke in my dizzy and finding a new one was troublesome but got a brand new dizzy, wired and installed the j121 igniter. I have no trigger 1 or spark or trigger 1 but I figure trigger is the biggest concern as it tells everything else when to go. my ignition coil has a resistance of 387 ohms, same as my original unit, the ground in the trigger wire has continuity to the other tps sensor ground, Set it up as reluctor, crank tooth count 12 sync tooth 1 The part that is killing me is I when I hit capture on the trigger scope I will see different results without changing anything, the wiring is solid all the way back with no continuity issues, and removed the trigger 2 red wire off the bulk head connector to avoid cross talk issues. Any thoughts, ideas, hunches or hints are appreciated Only other thing is I get a connection error "27 not implemented" while cranking TriggerScopeLog l28e.llgx TriggerScopeLog think i got it 2.llgx TriggerScopeLog think i got it.llgx 280zx l28e na base map setup 4.pclx
  10. Can't thank you enough for you help Adam!
  11. sorry for my late replay, I saw your post right away tho! Thanks for not only a rapid response but such detail and part numbers! I will order the 3 wire one right away, I think I will make an adapter and swap out the throttle switch for a proper sweeping tps too Sorry but just to clarify, you are suggesting running a wire from the dizzy to the atom and then the new ignition module to ign 1 on the atom? Again, thanks for all the help!
  12. sorry for my late replay, I saw your post right away tho! Thanks for not only a rapid response but such detail and part numbers! I will order the 3 wire one right away, I think I will make an adapter and swap out the throttle switch for a proper sweeping tps too
  13. Hey All, 1983 datsun-nissan 280zx NA L28e engine (straight 6) with efi, On a fuel rail with high impedance injectors, pace setter headers, innovate wideband, Stock ignition system, flaming river coil with 1.4 ohm resistance ngk stock plugs, ngk HT leads. Newer to distributor engines, and struggling with wiring the distributor from the link, the NA distributor doesn't have a CAS and has the e12-92 ignition module on two connectors to it, top connector with Pins B C and side connector I W I Tried wiring the Link ignition 1 wire to the B or the dizzy but no spark, I get spark without the ecu hooked up. Any thoughts on where to run the Ignition 1 wire? And thoughts on trigger wires? I feel like I'm missing something ridiculously obvious. Thanks everyone! Oh also attached is what my config file so far. -Nic 280zx l28e na base map setup 4.pclx
  14. so removing the white and yellow 232 wires from the CANBUS port inside the ecu will let you have usb and can bus working at the same time? sorry just want to double check before I open it up. thanks again!
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