TechDave

So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas.
I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on.
In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip.
You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at runtime.
So there's a few things here I've done that aren't documented yet, yes they will be.
The first is that maths channels can do reassignment, x = x + 1 etc
The next is that they're evaluated at 1000 Hz
Lastly I know of a few built in functions too.
I figured out two methods, of averaging, the first could be used not only for wheel speed, but for really any parameter, lambda, throttle position, you could use another maths function to find lambda, vvt, boost, etc error then feed that function into this one and have an average of error over some time period.
This one uses this algorithm:
newAverage = oldAverage + (newSample - oldAverage)/sampleNumber

the cnt function is a real good cnt function, it counts 1 per cycle (so 1 per millisecond) while c is greater than or equal to 1, so if you feed it a status which evaluates to 0 OFF and 1 ON, then you're away. If you want to use this for Anti-Lag active we might have to get a bit imaginative about an offset, iirc Anti-Lag OFF = 0, ON = 1, Active = 2...etc
I had to add a +1 to cnt because on the first cycle it's 0 and that's div by 0, plus the first cycle is the 1st sample too.
The 2nd method I came up with was to calculate distance, which of itself is a useful function, then calculate distance/time, again using that good cnt function:

Again using reassignment in the Distance function, multiply speed by 1/100th of a second, of a minute, of a hour to get distance travelled per millisecond (rate is 1kHz), I multipled by status to simply switch it on and off. This gives me km.
distance a over time, divide by the same multi as above gets us back to an average.
You don't need to use 8dp for this, I was just using it while getting my exponents sorted.
My functions agree with each other and track to my expectations, but if you spot an error in my maths then shout out
edit: unfortunately this is all in kph as I started running out of characters to add the mph multiplier, I've spoken with engineering and we'll see if we can get the length increased, 2.77e-7 helped a lot, but still lost a bit to parenthesis too.
 

Use the table import/export functions, this brings axis settings over too.

Works on almost all tables but not AFR/Lambda target

 

Or even being able to customize FN / shortcut keys?

Windows 10 uses a stupid font scalar... open up display settings you will see the font scalar most likely reads 200%... lower it closer to 100-150 and it should fix it

I've helped with development of the new knock normalised mode and done lots of Beta testing. 
The Knock Normalised Mode has the big benefit that it will adapt to increased noise level, when your engine wear over time and consequently produce more background noise. In tradional mode this will lead to false knock detection. In general speaking Knock Normalised mode will  adapt to changing background noise levels and should need less adjustment from engine to engine, once you have a good basemap worked out. It also allows better adjustment how much ignition retard is applied, based on knock level detected. 
It is meant to use all the tables, which are shown in PC LINK in this mode.
I would start with a small Knock Target Table. Break points every 1000rpm and on y-axis every 50kpa (boosted engine) should be sufficient. A filled table of 2.0 should be a good to starting point.
During transient engine operation the knock levels are going higher. In the tradional mode lockouts for delta rpm and tps where set. In Knock Normalised Mode it is meant to use all the Knock Transient Tables to keep knock control active all the time. The Knock Normalised Levels will increase even more, during transient operation, than in traditional mode. The idea with all the transient threshold tables is to increase temporarly the knock treshold, instead of just deactivating knock control. 
As a starting point fill the Knock Normalised MAP and RPM Delta Level tables with factor 1.5. 
The Knock Normalised Delta RPM and RPM threshold defines when the knock multiplicator above is applied. Setting is very dependand how stable your knock engine speed ROC and knock Map Delta channels are. If there are too noisy you can apply more filter to get this channel(s) smoothed. 
I recommend the following order for setup and tuning. 
1. setup function as suggested above
2. adjust knock noise filter (same process as in tradional mode)
3. calibrate knock target table in steady state conditions
4. calibrate all knock transient tables, so knock target is little above knock levels in all knock free transient condions. 
Notes: 
- you can calibrate knock input filter also in tradional knock mode. This setting will be the same in both modes. 
- it is normal behavior that knock normalised levels go higher during transient than in steady state operation
- as always when you calibrate knock detection system use knock ears! 
- Important knock level detected must be logged with internal logger with at least 200hz (better more) to show peak values correct in PC Link
 
 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with. 

This went up late last week: PC Link Downloads | Link Engine Management
Release Notes: https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 26112020.pdf
Known issue with the drivers, see here: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/13145-ftd2xxdll-is-missing/

Ok if your freinds info is correct then the settings below would be how to set it up.  Your original screenshot doesnt show any ID's 77A or FA though.
Note you will need to be connected to the ECU part of the bus, not the OBD side.
 
Set up channel 1 & 2 like below:


 
Set up stream 1 & 2 like this:

Not super fancy, but I use a math block to filter my speed signal with the average function (av). Works really well.

On G4X, it is different than G4+, you must go on a function and then assign a pin/port. If you want your analog volt 3 to be your TPSn then go to function TPS and assign it to AN Volt 3 for example
the tables you show is only an overview, that's why you cannot change them.

Some news? I used the Toucan file and I have six CAN Di working with some errors.
 

Yeah I added this to the list a few months ago.

Thank you guys! It is nice to see new features coming.

Thats not a nice way how you say that. On every product you buy the updates stops someday and you have to invest in the new generation unit if you want get all the recent features. 
Besides I'm 100% sure you would have been in the same situation with the other ECU  manufacturer. And if your fuel table is properly tuned, there is no need for long term fuel trims. I recommend to use Mixture Map. 

This should work according to our data.

Something I've done recently is add a knock warning to my CE Light, I used a math block to calculate knock level - threshold and put it through a gp output to get an off delay (hold time) and fed it into the CE Light Aux.
So far I've only used it for playing around with setting up my thresholds (so I can see how often it happens and for a clearer picture of when it happens) but I imagine it will be very useful once I've finished setting u the knock too. It has also been very useful for reviewing Knock stuff in PCLink logs as often the knock stuff happens too fast to be caught by PCLink but the knock light status can be used to see when it occurs without needing to actually see the knock level above the threshold.
 

It was on the 2.5L engine only, the cam wouldn't swing it's full length.

Has been released!

Some key functions I'm dead keen on:
Traction Control and Torque Management. More GP Tables Boost Control pressure source selection MAP Sync Fixed the file path directory thing so it's like G4+ again Faster connection speed and faster navigation inside PCLink GP Output On Delay (I'll make a post soon on why this is cool)
Download Here
Release Notes

Yeah I added this to the list a few months ago.

Yes i did . 
BUT after instaling the new loom permanent  after testing ignition and injection the ground pin on the connecter i used popped a bit out and it didnt had good ground on the coils stupid f*** i am always looking to far . 
pulled the wire on the plug and the ground pin just came out 
thnx for the heads up but i was too focused on the triggers. 

I came up with a setup that; if I hold brake and clutch for 3 seconds after key on, my cruise switches become motorsport style buttons.
Here's the setup for "Track Mode",
Virtual Aux 1 is Clutch and Brake Switch Start Timer 1 with Ignition Switch Start Timer 2 with Virtual Aux 1 (reset it to 0 if virtual aux 1 turns off) Virtual Aux 2 says: If, after 3 seconds, Timer 1 and Timer 2 are equal, then Virtual Aux 2 is on, when you release the pedals, the virtual aux stays on because of condition 3 (that it is on) Virtual Aux 2 is now "Race Mode" you can use this to perhaps richen up a mixture, or as a switch for high boost mode.

I also reprogrammed in Track Mode, so that Cruise Resume increased my traction Slip % (Though you could use this for launch RPM or boost level) Cruise Set reduced this.
Cruise cancel activated launch control.
Cruise On/Off activated pit lane limiter.
 

Dave, this is an older MXS, not the 1.2 we sell.  
It doesnt look like they have updated the CAN stream in it.  Even if I create a new MXS config from scratch in the latest RS3 the ECU stream version is still v00.00.01.  In the MXS 1.2 the can version is V02.00.05

Anti static wrist strap.

https://www.antistat.co.uk/product/disposable-esd-wrist-band/

You're suppose to stay grounded while handling the ecu during the installation process.

Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that.

Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.

Thank you very much 
The Link G4X ecu I put on a 2004 subaru forester 2.0 XT with single AVCS and I convert to DBW ,I will come back with all the  details of the work I am doing to help anyone who needs it