TechDave

Heres a pic of the is300 unit relocated for a aftermarket wheel.
And a pic of the Subaru stalk.

Sorry for late reply... Have had no issues running PCLink in a Win10 64bit VM on a MacBook Pro

Try this. Load this map.
Open the trigger calibrate widow. Click set base timing
Set ignition timing to 15 HIT ENTER, set delay to 40 HIT ENTER. Change offset until harmonic balancer reads 15deg HIT ENTER.
Leave window open and let water temp to come up, once at normal operating temp set idle screw so idle is just below target. Now hit done on base timing popup.
This map is using idle ignition table. Let me know how this goes.
Also any reason why your using MGP as a fuel Axis on a sr20ve? I would look and either MAP or TPS if you have poor map signal. Are you using a wideband to adjust the fuel table? 
start5 LINK HELP.pcl

Quite a few things i question or would change here.
You have charge temp aproximation on, AND iat and warmupenrichment on. Thats not supposed to be like that. Chargetemp aproximation table doesnt look right either.
You are running E85 and relatively low boost yet to me your timingfigures seem pretty low. Now i dont know evos but that cant be right. Is the trigger calibrated (Is a timinglamp showing the same as the numbers in the ecu?)
You have (as far as my google fu can tell) injectors that have a 3D deadtimetable available. Make the deadtime table 3D and fill it in correctly. Then in the main fuelsetup type in the current fuel base pressure and flow  numbers based on reality. (You would need a retune after this so leave it if you are not going to.)
Your limiters have a delay of 3 full seconds before they cut in. You r engine wont take 3 seconds at wot with no oilpressure.
Your running closed loop lambda all the time and it is alowed to make up to +-15% changes. even at WOT. Although some do this i wouldnt personaly risk that my sensor faults at wot and the ecu takes out 15% fuel. But thats just me.
If my findings about low timingnumbers are real i doubt the engine is really knocking. In that case knock control isnt set right.
I would get a fuelpresure sensor hooked up and use FP referenced fuel type system. Just because its awsome...
Fuel charge cooling coefficient isnt set right for e85
Fuel density temp coefficient isnt set fofr e85
Fuel dencity at 20 deg isnt set for e85
Engine size is set to 2.4 litres. Is this right?
Thats a start at least...
But the fuel table LOOKS pretty though. Maybe too pretty for a real engine.
HPAcademy.com is your friend.

Posting a map and a log file of the issue will always help diagnose the problem faster. 

Thanks to everyone for their help.
ended up with some good results today.
cheers.
Col

Start by getting a nice flat boost cure @ 274Kpa then add axis above and below. Subtract DC% from 274 figure when boost is more and add DC % from 274Kpa when boost is less. 280 row is left at 0 as a safety, so if boost spikes it comes down quickly. Use the log file to help with DC figures. 
High performance academy have some really helpful videos on this subject and many more.   
MAP Table.pclr

I can confirm the Mazda 3 trigger works. Used this last week on an NC engine. 
Blaine Carmena
Carmena Performance

Worked a charm 
Cheers for that

Well, I'd like to start off by saying sorry for being such a duma$$...
Next, I'd like to thank those that worked with me finding things to try and get my car to run...
It runs now... Apparently you can't FULLY trust an FSM, even straight from the manufacturer. I followed the directions for installing the cam sprockets, but the RevUp information is very limited... The images specifically tell you to install the exhaust cam gear 180 off. lol. So I did. After taking it all apart, I realized my error. Got it corrected, reassembled it all, then forgot one stupid hidden ground wire so I had no spark again. Fixed that, now she runs super smooth... Can't wait to get the burn in done and get on the road!

Hey guys, 
I own a 92 FD3S that was previously a shop car at RE Amemiya (a rotary tuning company in Chiba, Japan.). My plan is to use the car for circuit, road racing and hill climb events as well as just being a general hobby to keep me busy. 
The modifications on the car prior to its import to NZ were quite basic with just the AC037 / AC987 body conversion (yep those are 993 head lights and C5 tail lights!), rear wing and Aragosta adjustable coil-overs. Since picking it up i have added the following
Willwood forged superlight 4 pot calipers and 2 piece 325mm disks Project MU rear rotors Famspeed titanium exhaust TE37SLs + AD08Rs Works bell rapifix + Nardi Deep Corn T3 pillowball toe links Super Now Swaybar clamps + mounts Racing Beat Swaybars Racing Beat front Swaybar brace Pillowball swaybar links Aluminium AST End of September i am kicking off the single turbo conversion along with a few other upgrades to make it more track capable, all the following is sitting ready to go!
Link G4+ PNP (slightly modified for more ANV) Borg Warner 8374 .92 IWG with Aluminium CHRA 347SS investment cast manifold + Inconel heat shield 3.5" 304SS downpipe Greddy VMount intercooler kit 850cc primary + 1400cc secondary injectors Bosch 044 + Surge (factory FP will act as a lift pump) AEM Wideband + Coolant T + Oil P + Boost Link 3 bar map + IAT + Oil T + Fuel P Cusco RS 1.5 way lsd Solid engine and diff mounts Carbonic clutch Pair of Racetech RT4009WHR bucket seats GFB Fuel Reg Part Shop Max Rear The plan is to tune the car myself, so far have been working my way through the HPAcademy EFI Tuning Fundamentals and Practical Standalone courses along with the Link ECU manual. This will be the 1st car i have tuned and so am approaching it cautiously, ill document my success / failure here.
I have 3 months to do the build (i am hoping to get to REUnion, a big rotary event in New Zealand. 

 

The AEM 0-5V output wire can be connected to any spare analog input on your monsoon.  You will need to check in your map but most likely you will have AN Volt 4 or AN Volt 3 free (pins shown in pink below).
If your wideband device also has a "signal ground" or "analog ground" then that should be connected to one of the green ground wires in the pic below. 
Yes your AIM dash can then be set up to display Lambda or AFR over CAN.  Depending on how old your dash is you might need some help from me to do you a custom CAN stream to get it to display the right units.   Get your wideband connected first and we'll cross that bridge if needed.

It looks to me like the DASH2Pro CAN stream sends "non-driven" wheel speed so your setup above should have worked ok.  No harm in trying what Simon suggests though and assign both driven and non driven to the same wheel.
Also check in the Dash2Pro config that the speed display is looking for "non-GPS" speed:

 
In the Dash2Pro CAN config, make sure the ECU speed channel is enabled and also make sure you dont have more than 15 channels enabled:

 

I'm getting the same behavior, make a new XY Plot and it works great, it works even if I set it up exactly the same as the broken one.
Also, interestingly, if I copy-pasta the 'broken' XY Plot, the new one is also broken, which would suggest an XY Plot setting is upset somewhere (like the X axis range)

I've added it to the list to be investigated, thanks for your patience.

Next PCLink release will have this fix.

I'm currently looking for gauge options for the Link G4+
I would love to run Defi gauges, I like the idea of multiple dedicated analogue displays but at the same time don't want to run multiple sensors of the same type... especially as.. well.. i have a Link... as such I'm looking at gauge options that piggy back specifically on the Link... I'm not a huge fan of the Link G4+ official options at the moment, so I'm looking into other options and Perfect Tuning's gauge has caught my attention.
Has anybody got any experience with this... http://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html
It looks pretty good!
 

All I've wired in signal splitters to reduce the teeth count from 48 to 12
So I've divided it down by 4.
 
I've also changed wheel diameters. 
Front 61
Rear 62.5
I need to work out the values I need to input into the software. 
Would appreciate some help here as I'm wanting to do some testing on it and maybe get it working for the nulon nationals at Bathurst this weekend. 
 
Cheers in advance 

i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF
I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT
 
But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started.
 
Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.

Any one know how to set up an atom on a tl1000.i believe it has 8 teeth on the crank and 1 on the cam.
Thanks
Jim Munden
 

I dont know if there are some variations of these but I found this on the web:

It suggests the crank has 4 teeth with one of those being a long tooth.  Can you confirm yours is like this?  I think we will probably find one of the OEM trigger modes will match but I will have to ask the engineers tomorrow if it looks familiar. 
A long tooth with a reluctor sensor is often not a good choice with most aftermarket ECU's either since they normally use the "zero crossing" point which will be quite variable in this case. OEM's can get around this by trigger off different features in the wave form.  One option would be to grind one edge of the long tooth down so that it is the same length as the others.

Hi Dave can you please have a look at the FP speed DC% during logging. Not sure if its normal but when you change the multiplier in the fuel pump control tab the FP speed DC% during logging does not match the duty cycle in the FP speed table. Im using a NZEFI hardware PWM fuel Controller and they are the settings with the instructions.
 
 


5 Bar turbosmart reg drop test 16 Volts.llg

Hi guys,

We've done a wee release to fix a few of the pressing firmware issues.
PCLink hasn't changed so the release notes below will be for the previous release.
 
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
 Post here if you find any issues.

FYI

I had a long chat with AIM Germany back in february. They told me, that AIM is currently not supporting the canbus of the link ecu. So i just wired it up for Rx/Tx as the support told it to me and it directly worked fine.

What if you could tune by voice . Have a mic connection and for example on fuel say - MARK - UP or DOWN - and SAVE .  It could mark the active cell . Raise or lower the amount in the cell by a pre determined amount ( say 0.1 or 0.5 lambda or Whatever you want )  and obviously - save . Safe tuning on the fly - Can you do it ?

I don't have a Gen4 cal.  But I do have a handful of gen2 and 3 cals. 
If you are just looking for the trig set up I would start here