TechDave

Under trigger modes in the software you will use the setting "Chev LS2/LS7" It will work with the factory sensors. 

There is a difference in the sensor location as well as what the sensor is measuring.
Most cars will have the coolant temp sensor(CTS) in the cylinder head or the thermostat housing to measure coolant temp of the water coming out of the motor.
Some cars and bikes actually have a cylinder head temp(CHT) sensor.  This sensor doesn't go into the coolant but merely measures the temperature of the material of the head.
There are quite a few cars that will have a CTS in the head or thermos housing, and then also have a fan switch in the radiator end tank.
 
Easiest way to tell if the sensor in the head is a CTS or CHT is to remove it and see if there is coolant in the port where it goes.

Ive setup 4 or so tablets for friends that Use link ecus including my own, have a few different layouts depending on what you want to monitor etc
make all layouts on laptop easyer for templating size and layout

One example

So Link tech got back to me and said there was noise on the trigger causing the fuel pump to prime and asked to check again with the CAS disconnected .
So i did. It worked. Pump now primes once and not again and again. I also have an old CAS lying around so plugged that one in to see. Again perfect.
It seems the CAS is faulty. The thing is i bought a new electronic bit that fits inside the casing from a aussie company. Seems its Faulty. Have to get on to them about it
Thank you
Dan

Hey people, 
Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well.

I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode.

With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily.

Like so: 



Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. 

So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. 
I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear.
Then flicked the first switch, did it again.
Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. 

When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. 


However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values:


Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km:



Then from here, collated the results from each run.


So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too.

It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. 
It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising)

Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! 
I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat. 

Hi Dave,
Ok got it right. After selecting the Auto option, I exited, saved and store the Layout.
It worked just right. Thank you Dave.

When PCLink first starts up, before you change the connection option, in the top right hand corner, does PCLink display an orange box with "Searching"?
If it does not:
Go to Options > Connection Set "Connection Mode" to "Auto" Press Ok Go to File > Exit Open PCLink manually You should be able to cycle the power to the PC and PCLink will auto connect.
Post back here with your result.

For anyone else looking to run similar setups with Racepak dashes and a link ecu. Don't purchase the Racepak display dash or logger dash that has the standard 5pin v-net connector and 8pin Deutsche connected on the back. If you purchase the Racepak STREET dash it has a can module already built into the dash that can be programmed to most new ecus and I have tested and confirmed it on my link G4+ extreme.

Mate im a Link dealer and live in Australia 
Drop me a email [email protected] with what you need and i can help you out
Cheers
Jase
0415041477

New release:
http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

Hi Simon
Sweet
Tested and confirmed all good.
Cheers
Andy

i havnt updated to the new version yet but im having issues on windows 8 that pclink crashes if i let my laptop sleep then start it back up? loosing a lot of logfiles

Post removed to avoid confusion.

Installed new PClink, now plugging into ECU it says that my ECU needs an unlock code.
Thoughts? Was working fine yesterday on previous version, have restarted ECU and laptop.

Using a red G4+ xtreme.
Ahhh  sorted it. Had to factory reset the ECU then load new firmware on it,then my basemap back on it.

Good morning everybody,
Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?)
Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around.
 
I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release:
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:

Thanks, I'm aware of this issue, it is marked as high priority and I've been working on a solution.

Thanks a lot guys, remember i was the one contacting you on facebook XD Will finally take a look now

"Be sure to let us know what the was. For future reference..."
Dont know what cause this problem.
We send ECU to person who has know-how in ECU repairing, coding etc.
He just run firmware update...... done!!

"The problem is that you don't have read/write access to that folder"
As said before.
Maybe 4 laptops that we use have hidden protection or whatever.

I found idle target trim table was populated with values which could give a few headaches if a file compare wasn't done. 

Good morning everybody,
Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?)
Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around.
 
I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release:
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:

Good morning everybody,
Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?)
Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around.
 
I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release:
As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:

I think Dave wants you to click this button then do screen shot:
 

Windows allows you to install programs to non read/write/execute locations, then when you try to run them they fall over. We see this a lot with people who install PCLink to Program Files thinking they know better than we do. You may copy and paste things in, around and out of Program Files, but programs are not allowed to read write here. For this reason I think this is still a simple permissions setting that these four machines happen to have set, I still have some investigation to do.
Andi, please:
go to C:\ and right mouse click on "Link G4", go properties. Open the Security tab, click on 'Advanced'. Take a screenshot of the window that opens and post it here or email it to tech support.

windows tablet 8,9" Sunstech TAW895QCBTK dual port, USB and
charging
 
 

windows 10 tablet .
B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.