Davidv

Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm

In my case too the closed loop e-throttle does absolutely nothing to try stablise the idle. I never even thought about it until I saw this thread. Using latest firmware.

Yeah I definitely wont be selling this one... I dont think I'd ever find another one. Most of them rusted into dust about 10 years ago and they were uncommon and unloved compared to some of the other Toyota models of the era. So most just got binned as soon as they got rusty. And yes I've been a bit slack at getting track footage, things become a bit more complicated when I'm fitting semislicks each event and carting around all of the tools etc in the car. Feels like my day is busy enough already without worrying about camera stuff. But definitely a good keepsake. The factory 4AGE Carinas essentially had an AE86 drivetrain in them so they were the first to get harvested for parts. I've been thinking about building a campervan as well, perhaps just keep this and make a start on that some time soon. I wonder what weird and wonderful features a G4+ could control for a campervan haha.

Oh hey! Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back. Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess... Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events. At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed. I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated. On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon. I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances. It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating. It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution. Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it. I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha. Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point. (Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!)

How about a 4D fuel table in overlay mode that has the axes of IAT and Engine Run Time.

You can only download one log file, but are you aware of the option to overlay a previous log against the one you're looking at? You can then align them as needed so you could look at both engines at once. You open your first log, then open the 2nd. Then go to log file manager and put a tick in the box of the first log. Then it will show both. You can hold down mouse button on the time scale at the bottom to align the logs. Then you could align the "splits" from when engines get turned off/on in order to check the results from each race.

You could set your aux 4 to GP PWM and then fill out with 0% or 100% Might be a better way to do it but that would probably work.Would just need to be wary of where it's trying to interpolate between 0% and 100% you might need to set some custom rows very close together. e.g. one row at 2999rpm 0% and one row at 3000rpm 100% so it's only interpolating across 1rpm instead of 500 or 1000. Otherwise you could use your normal set of conditions and do the same things above for a virtual aux instead, that acts as one of the trigger conditions.

Sounds like you're overcomplicating it TBH. Also you dont want it turning on *just* with throttle position as you want to move the cam through the rev range. You'll want it to turn on at WOT at some point in rev range (probably 3k onwards) then turn back off again somewhere around peak torque (so probably off again 6-7k) You can test with your wideband to see which cam setting is best through the rev range. So set no advance, do some runs to stabilise your AFR. Then turn on the VVT through the rev range, the areas where it now runs leaner (meaning more air is now entering engine) are where you'll want to have VVT turned on. Any areas where it runs richer, you want VVT turned off. (Note: This only applies to full throttle) Once you have best cam switching rpms set, this happens predictably and consistently. So you just need your fuel and ignition maps to represent the VE of which cam position you have at that rpm and load combo. Rathr than having two seperate maps or whatever. I would leave coolant temp completely out of the equation, it's likely only for emissions reasons that it would avoid introducing more overlap at low ECT. But I would wager that you're not planning on thrashing your car when it's cold anyway. Closed loop lambda correction can fix up the AFRs if you did want to turn VVT off for cold engine. To visualise the changes that VVT makes, here is an example using airflow meter to datalog my VVTI engine with various cam angles. Imagine that in your instance you will only have two possible lines which are 12 and 40. Peak torque happens on my engine at 6000-6500ish so you can see how pulling cam timing back at this point is beneficial for power past that point.

Hey here's an idea for tuning CTC, basically hijacking the mixture map function by making an overlay fuel table that has ECT and IAT as its axes. Get your engine tuned "right" at a given temperature that you can keep it stable at then turn off corrections. Then datalog some driving where you get fluctuations in ECT and IAT with closed loop turned off. Then create an overlay fuel table with the axes set to IAT and ECT, set all values to 100. Then use the mixture map function to load the datalog results and build the fuel table, filter the results so its only reading one rpm region say 250rpm either side of 3500rpm then when you update mixture map it'll adjust the values up and down by a % needed to reach goal AFR, you may see a trend here that can be used to fill in your CTC table Then keep changing rpm and resetting mixture map values to 100 to find values for each rpm range (Havent tested this myself, but seems a good way to gather data over a long span of time to find the trends)

Hey there, I ran some tests on a VVTI motor by connecting up a MAF sensor, and then datalogging the output at varying cam advance angles. As per below. So it should be fairly easy to see where it's adding airflow (power potential!) without a dyno by looking where you need to add/remove fuel to reach goal AFRs at differening cam angles. (Then head to dyno to optimise ignition timing etc)

Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.

Hahaha that "knobs box" is awesome!

They have different plugs, so you shouldnt be able to mix them up. You can use either, but make sure that the setting in the controller matches the sensor you are using. 4.9 should be more reliable / longer lasting.

Ahh okay thats interesting about the temperature rating. I've been thinking about getting a Fury for a 6 cyl turbo project in the works, onboard lambda is definitely awesome. Do any of your spec sheets about the sensor list anything about best practice for sensor warmup procedure or whatever? I dont think I've ever seen any documentation directly from Bosch about the 4.2 or 4.9.

Having burned through a big stack of wideband sensors I've found the way to make them last is to have a delayed start after engine is running for the controller / heater. Having the heater turn on while the engine is off is absolutely the worst thing for them, first crank and cold air past sensor = cracked. Since I have added a relay to turn on my controller, powered by ECU with two conditions of either 15 second delay after first start, or 50 deg minimum engine temperature. I have had no further issues. With the Fury etc is there an option for delayed start or any extra heater controls? I think the difference in lifespan between OEM 4.9s and aftermarket ones, is that generally the aftermarket controllers have no visibility of what the engine is doing, it can only REACT to exhaust temp changes etc. It would be cool if the wideband controller integrated into the ECU could (via TPS or rpm or whatever) anticipate increase in EGT and proactively back off the heating of the sensor or something like that, to mellow out the "spikes" in sensor temperature. At the moment am I correct to assume that it's just constantly aiming for a goal sensor temperature with no input from TPS etc? Even just as simple as having wideband heater control linked to Accell enrichment and decel fuel cut would probably help with sensor life I'd imagine.

Sorry my mistake - I must have been reading the page for Auxilary injection instead and got that idea stuck in my head. Good to know, Will change it back to fuel cut! Cheers

My "wish list" for staged injection would be: 1. Be able to set injection timing seperately to primary injectors (optimum point is quite different between primary and secondary) 2. IAT trims etc to apply to the secondary injectors, as mine uses 95% outboard injectors with higher rpm. (Theres an existing thread about this) 3. To be able to use fuel cut rev limit with staged injection, rather than primaries cut and secondary keeps on going. Using an ignition cut instead isnt good for my wideband or arguably for the longevity of my mufflers either. 4. Currently it's set so if you have an RPM based staging table, there is still a minimum RPM at which staged injection will engage (which is now a redundancy) it would be nice if you could set this to a minimum throttle position or minimum MAP signal instead: 5. It would be nice to be able to setup the Sec PW Lockout right down to 0ms, (rather than 0.6ms currently) so if I set it to use 100% staged injection I know that I'm using outer injectors all of the time. This would be useful for initial configuration because even if you've got accurate injector info, the different injector placement can cause it to behave differently so you really need to test "in car" to set the primary/secondary ratio etc in a way that represents how it will actually work.So isolating entirely to outer injectors would be useful here I think, as well as troubleshooting for individual injector issues.

+1 for this, I'm using a PWM table too

No worries Adam I'm sure you guys will have it patched up soon enough.

Installed new PClink, now plugging into ECU it says that my ECU needs an unlock code. Thoughts? Was working fine yesterday on previous version, have restarted ECU and laptop. Using a red G4+ xtreme. Ahhh sorted it. Had to factory reset the ECU then load new firmware on it,then my basemap back on it.

+1 for HPA.

Has there been a change to how long you need to hold down the ON button for? In my car it's seemed harder to get it started for some reason, pretty sure nothing physical has changed. Will take some logs when my car's back together.

Hey there, You'll want to check the output of the AN Volt signal when you have the ON switch turned on, and see if it matches the Analog Voltage thresholds table in the cruise control setup menu. By default the ON button is set to 0 volts, you might find that the toyota switch outputs to 0.5 volts or something like that instead when the ON button is pressed.

Hi John, below 4000ish it was all the same results, where it essentially wants to spray on the back of hot valves with as much time to spare before valves open. So it was 400 or 450 degrees end of injection before TDC gave best results. I wouldnt expect this to change at part throttle, but I havent tested. From memory 400BTDC end of injection is the default timing in the Link setup.

Best way to check is with a wideband, and you'll find the ideal timing changes through the rpm range. Get your AFRs stable through the rev range, then set the timing statically to one number (say 400deg BTDC end of spray) then do a full throttle run. Then 350 degrees, then 300 degrees, etc and log all of the results. Put results into a table and see what gives the richest readings, this will be best timing. Unless you've got big injectors with small pulsewidths though (like 30%) you'll find injector timing to be fairly irrelevant as most of the time its spraying on back of shut valves anyway. This is how mine ended up: