Davidv

Im pretty sure this trigger mode uses a count type sync so I suspect either rising or falling edge would work for trig 2 in terms of ability to sync and start.  The ecu just checks whether it saw 1 or 2 trig 2 edges in the last crank rotation (between the missing teeth).  Swapping from rising to falling would effectively inverse the count result so the offset should change by 360 deg.
I dont think the 2GR mode does a wasted spark start so if it is running, it is running direct spark and the offset is correct.  
For the DI's, It sounds like possibly the voltage level is not crossing one of the thresholds.  You can check what voltage is reaching the ecu by backprobing with a multimeter on the DI pin, and the engine not running, just pull a sensor out and place something iron in front of it to get both the high and low level.  From memory with G4+ it needs to go above about 2V and below about 1.2V.  
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

My ideas:
Pump safety
Fit a speed sensor onto a dry sump pump.
Pump speed / engine speed
If the number goes out of bounds you pump has jammed or belt has broken. So you can see a fault before oil pressure needs to drop.
Coolant capacity %
Will experiment with this but essentially
( ECT - IAT) / (rad temp) x100
So will fiddle with this a bit and try get a number that represents your remaining cooling capacity even when ECT is stable. So you dont need to see ECT climb to know youre nearing saturation point. 
Could be handy for EWP logic.
 
L/100km & km/l 
Self explanatory. Need modelled fuel
 
BSFC
Need a dyno that outputs a hp figure connected with canbus. Also modelled fuel. But can tune an engine for best bang for buck. Which is otherwise difficult to see. But good for endurance cars etc.
 
Ignition time to 14 adtc
(Ign adv + 14) / rpm 
Shows time period to reach where peak combustion pressure should happen.
So could use as an axis on a table that trims your ign timing with afr variations, leaner mix needs more timing and vice versa.
But it would be nice if there was just an option to show timing as miliseconds anyway as this makes simple trim tables way more useful across a large rpm range 
 
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

Yes, you can use the external module to do 2 x E-throttles.  Common for VR38's and VQ35HR's etc.  You can assign different target tables and PID parameters to each throttle but keep in mind if using E-throttle for idle control, then the Idle control function will have some effect on both throttles when idle conditions are met.    
Edited.  Oops, I was thinking G4X.  The G4+ Xtreme cant do 2 e-throttles sorry.  

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

I took this out recently to the Pukekohe track, as I wanted to have a go before it closes.
Just a few days prior I setup the e-throttle rev match function. 
AND HOLY HELL THIS IS GOOD! 

In this whole video I didnt do a single rev match, ECU was taking care of it. 
So I could just concentrate on the brakes. 
Not only is it good for reducing lap times, but also reducing mechanical wear from synchros and clutch getting a hard time. 

The motor was getting quite hot (108deg max) so I need to sort the cooling a bit better. 

But on the whole it performed well beyond expectations.
 
 

Hi, sorry for the slow reply. 

I cant remember the wiring exactly, but it wasnt too hard to trace the wire colours back to the plugs on the motor to tell which ones were sensor ground or whatever. The factory engine/loom splices the grounds for the cam and crank sensor together to one wire.

 
Sorry I dont really have any other pics. It's just a plug cut out from a factory ECU, then wires soldered onto the pins and heat shrink over the top. 

Then at the other end, just crimping on the terminals that plug into the link ECU. 
Since the last update, I got a torsen LSD installed.

Ported the head, built an airbox setup, and tested some trumpet lengths. 

Also printed a new adapter that flips the throttles the other way up, so it just looks a bit tidier. 




Then took it to the drags, ran a 14.7 @ 95.5 mph with a 2.5 60 foot

Then took it to the dyno, managed to pick up another 6 horsepower by running it leaner and some other minor tweaks. 

So 141 wheel horsepower @ 7700rpm, pretty happy with that! Still has the factory exhaust which is awful, and I think the high exhaust pressure has been causing my wideband to read incorrectly. 

As my indicated 12.8:1 AFR on my canbus wideband was in reality around 11:1 at the tail pipe with the dyno's wideband.

So it picked up power as soon as we started leaning it out.



So I'm looking forward to heading back to the drags again shortly.
 
 

A friend loaned me some drag slicks to try.
So last night at the drags.
Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere.
So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative.
Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft.
Super happy with that!
I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight.
Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft.
At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13.
Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch.
So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch.
And crap. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band.
It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely stoked beyond belief
Get my time slip and was blown away
13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft

Here's the video for it
 

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

What's your load axis currently? 

If you are using MAP you might find its beneficial to switch over to a TPS based load axis at lower load where map is unstable. 

Out of interest do you have any logs you could post up? 

And what kind of intake is on it?

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

Technically possible and kind of already done with CAN Lambda detection and setup, has been mentioned before and is in the list of things to look at doing at some point in the future but no real time frame on it.

Remember that injector timing only really makes a difference when the injector is open for a very small amount of time. Such as idle or cruising. 

Because once you're up to say 70% or higher duty cycle, your injector is firing for so long that it makes little difference.

I've found that around 400deg is good but on cold starts bringing closer to 250deg (from memory ) meant I could reduce cold start enrichments.

A friend loaned me some drag slicks to try.
So last night at the drags.
Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere.
So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative.
Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft.
Super happy with that!
I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight.
Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft.
At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13.
Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch.
So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch.
And crap. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band.
It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely stoked beyond belief
Get my time slip and was blown away
13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft

Here's the video for it
 

Hi, sorry for the slow reply. 

I cant remember the wiring exactly, but it wasnt too hard to trace the wire colours back to the plugs on the motor to tell which ones were sensor ground or whatever. The factory engine/loom splices the grounds for the cam and crank sensor together to one wire.

 
Sorry I dont really have any other pics. It's just a plug cut out from a factory ECU, then wires soldered onto the pins and heat shrink over the top. 

Then at the other end, just crimping on the terminals that plug into the link ECU. 
Since the last update, I got a torsen LSD installed.

Ported the head, built an airbox setup, and tested some trumpet lengths. 

Also printed a new adapter that flips the throttles the other way up, so it just looks a bit tidier. 




Then took it to the drags, ran a 14.7 @ 95.5 mph with a 2.5 60 foot

Then took it to the dyno, managed to pick up another 6 horsepower by running it leaner and some other minor tweaks. 

So 141 wheel horsepower @ 7700rpm, pretty happy with that! Still has the factory exhaust which is awful, and I think the high exhaust pressure has been causing my wideband to read incorrectly. 

As my indicated 12.8:1 AFR on my canbus wideband was in reality around 11:1 at the tail pipe with the dyno's wideband.

So it picked up power as soon as we started leaning it out.



So I'm looking forward to heading back to the drags again shortly.
 
 

A friend loaned me some drag slicks to try.
So last night at the drags.
Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere.
So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative.
Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft.
Super happy with that!
I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight.
Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft.
At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13.
Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch.
So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch.
And crap. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band.
It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely stoked beyond belief
Get my time slip and was blown away
13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft

Here's the video for it
 

A friend loaned me some drag slicks to try.
So last night at the drags.
Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere.
So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative.
Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft.
Super happy with that!
I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight.
Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft.
At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13.
Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch.
So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch.
And crap. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band.
It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely stoked beyond belief
Get my time slip and was blown away
13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft

Here's the video for it
 

Hi, sorry for the slow reply. 

I cant remember the wiring exactly, but it wasnt too hard to trace the wire colours back to the plugs on the motor to tell which ones were sensor ground or whatever. The factory engine/loom splices the grounds for the cam and crank sensor together to one wire.

 
Sorry I dont really have any other pics. It's just a plug cut out from a factory ECU, then wires soldered onto the pins and heat shrink over the top. 

Then at the other end, just crimping on the terminals that plug into the link ECU. 
Since the last update, I got a torsen LSD installed.

Ported the head, built an airbox setup, and tested some trumpet lengths. 

Also printed a new adapter that flips the throttles the other way up, so it just looks a bit tidier. 




Then took it to the drags, ran a 14.7 @ 95.5 mph with a 2.5 60 foot

Then took it to the dyno, managed to pick up another 6 horsepower by running it leaner and some other minor tweaks. 

So 141 wheel horsepower @ 7700rpm, pretty happy with that! Still has the factory exhaust which is awful, and I think the high exhaust pressure has been causing my wideband to read incorrectly. 

As my indicated 12.8:1 AFR on my canbus wideband was in reality around 11:1 at the tail pipe with the dyno's wideband.

So it picked up power as soon as we started leaning it out.



So I'm looking forward to heading back to the drags again shortly.
 
 

Hi, 

My other car has been off the road for ages, and life has been in the way. 

So I thought it might be fun to just wire up my ECU into the Echo so I could have a play around with some tuning stuff again. 

It's a 1300cc economy engine so not going to set the world on fire. But a bit of fun.

I need/want to revert it all to factory though, so I bought a spare ECU from wreckers and cut the plugs out to make a patch loom.



This car has VVTI on the intake side, which means I could do my usual sweep through the vvti angles and see which delivers the most airflow into the engine. 

Results were unexpected:

(Colour scale is cam angle, blue is 0 degrees advance)



The engine pretty much hated having any cam advance at all over say 3000rpm. 
As opposed to my other engine where it likes lots of advance right to say 6500rpm then tapers off. 

I also noticed that the mass air flow rate just absolutely flatlines when you got to around 4000rpm. 

I didnt have a map sensor connected, but my suspicions were that it relates to the absolutely tiny throttle body, and the super long skinny runner on the intake manifold. 

There didnt look to be a  particularly easy way to fit a bigger throttle body, as the whole manifold is plastic and there's not much scope for boring it out.

So looking in the parts bin, I had some silvertop 4AGE throttles in the garage. 

I have a 3D printer that could bang together a usable prototype so after a few adjustments ended up with this.





Then printed some trumpets to available clearance.



Everything fit up surprisingly easily, the most expensive part of the swap (of parts I didnt already have) was just buying a radiator hose so I could move the filler cap a little further over. 

Results - were amazing! 
Instead of flatlining at 4000rpm, it just kept going up. I'd keep revving it a bit higher to help mitigate the crummy gearing from 1st to 2nd, but it starts getting valve bounce at around 7200rpm.
Also, now since the pressure differential from intake side to exhaust side has lessened (less intake vacuum at WOT) the engine now likes having more cam advance to make use of some scavenging.
Virtual dyno showing really good gains, and the difference in the fuel map backed this up too.




I took this car to the drags last year for a laugh, and when standard it ran a 17.6 @ 77mph with a 2.5 sec 60foot. 

So I wanted to try beat this as best I could, so setup a basic launch control using just rpm limiter with vehicle speed as a load axis



I figure I can tweak the 0kph limit up or down to set how much initial wheelspin it has, and then tweak the decay rate to calm down any excessive wheelspin as it gains speed. 

Some testing was looking promising but I also havent really been in the mood to deal with a blown up clutch so I didnt spend too much time on it.

The printed manifold got some reinforcing just in case.



Come to drag day. 



I think this launch control method would have worked well if I was doing a burnout to scuff the tyres. But since I was clutch concious I was just rolling through. So the tyres would get wet to a varying degree and also the rubber debris you pick up varies from run to run. So I found it was a bit inconsistent.

None the less, managed to improve the PB significantly to 16.4 @ 83mph. With a slower 60ft at 2.6 seconds

So possibly even quicker however I only completed a minimal amount of runs for sake of clutch preservation. 
(I've owned this car since 30,000km, it's now on 195,000km with original clutch)

It's actually been heaps of fun, and it's a completely different car to drive with the better intake. 
I've got a gearbox ready to fit with better final drive ratio and gearing from the RS model, and a torsen LSD to fit in it. 
I'll also chuck the 1500cc motor in at some point, I'd imagine it would dip into the 15 second bracket pretty easy with that combo. 
And it's great because all of the parts are hilariously cheap. If I could wring 100hp per litre out of the 1500cc setup it would be pretty hilarious to drive, as it's only around 800kg. Still not the same power to weight ratio as my other car, however, would be a heap of fun to do some autocross/hillclimbs/small track stuff with.