Chris250

You were right on the money Adam, broken wire right at the ECU header on pin 53. With the wire fixed the idle valve was a lot quieter as well. The flywheel voltage is within 0.3-0.5 volts of the target alternator control voltage but is still showing as a fault on the alternator control. How far out from target will it throw a fault?

Which ECU are you running? Is it the stock ETCS-i throttle you're using? I've always had customer delete the E-throttle part before they've came in making the throttle 100%mechanical using a kit like this: DBW Throttle delete kit

There is a specific pin in the instruction for knock input, the one next to +14v, it's the one that would be a DI4 input if you had a MonsoonX or other model

Looking over everything you need to switch your CAN Speed in the PMU to 1mbps, as Adam has said, without this the devices will never talk together. To do this in the PMU software you need to go into the configuration tab -> CANbus Setup -> and change the 500 kbps to 1Mbps. As for how you are setting everything up, there are a million different ways to get the same end result, personally, I'd program as much of the ECU sensors directly into the PMU, Engine speed, ECT, IAT, MAP, as well as your N2O request going into the ECU as you've got some covered. For your fuel pump control, you can get the PMU to run it all independently from the ECU but behave as though you have it ECU controlled, prime on power up, run on cranking, or engine speed above 150rpm. This will allow it to shut down the pumps if you stall or shut the engine down. To get the fuel pump to prime you can use the setting below where it'll prime for 5 seconds. The way I had the water pump controlled on this example I used the strategy the Davis Craig pump controller uses where it switches the pump on and off at varying intervals rather than PMW control for speed, I've also got it running on for 20 seconds after it reaches 60 degrees so it'll stay on after the engine is shut down for the time, it's also run on for 15 seconds after the engine speed is below 400rpm (shut off).

I've not had time to review your files but I have a PMU working alongside a G4+ Xtreme. I am controlling the fuel and water pumps via the PMU with only the engine data coming from the ECU into the PMU. When powered on the PMU primes the fuel system and then shuts down, it will begin running again once the ECU and PMU see over 200rpm, the extra pump we are using kicks in when over a set RPM and manifold pressure. The water pump is again controlled totally via the PMU, using the ECU data for switching on and off. I have also got the buttons from the keypad as override buttons so if the driver/ team want to cool the car down lower than the set points they can hit 1 button and it'll run the coolant fans and water pump. The same goes for the fuel system, a manual override for draining the tank. I've not set up a nitrous control but this would be similar to the extra fuel pump, you can also either sort the CAN data to let the ECU know the nitrous is active or go old school and tap into the nitrous power circuit with an DI channel so it's active for map adjustments when the nitrous is active

Just looking for a little bit of help regarding the alternator control on an MX5, it uses PWM and I've got it dialled in so the battery shows 14.5 as per the target but the "flywheel supply" is showing over 18 volts. Has anyone else got this matching up? NB MX5 Alter test.pclx NB MX5 Alter test.llgx

You'll need to 'sniff' the CAN signals to work out which does what and program the PMU accordingly, I've got it done for a customer with a G4+ and PMU and it works a treat

have you set the multi-tooth position as cam on the trig 1 setting? It'll need 24 teeth and set to cam Post your trigger settings and a scope

If you go into advanced settings for the boost cut you can narrow down the threshold which the cut activates

Is the Mazda MPS not a direct injection car?

Are you running an IAT sensor? if so where?

If you go into the launch options you can choose 'latched launch' which gives you a variable RPM depending on the RPM when digital input is activated.

I've seen clips of this on track, it's good to know more about it, mental!!!

It sounds like you getting a lot of air in after the throttle plate. Look at the mechanicals first as the only time I've seen something similar was when someone had fitted a greddy intake to an SR20 and never blocked the spare ports.

Have you tried using the Gear Shift Control in the software? If your running that kind of hardware it would be worth spending some time setting up this properly rather than a dummed down flat shift as you call it

How were you testing it Scott? ChaserDream, are you running a stock igniter and coils? When I was researching the JZ ignition system there was someone testing it in America explained that the system can only charge to a maximum of 2.5ms before it fires itself. Its to prevent damage to the igniter from overcharging. When I came across the issue it was during tuning and was running direct fire through the stock system.

Glad to help, the reason for the issue is that the stock JZ ignition system can't charge for any longer than 2.5ms,this causes the misfire you were getting if you try

Your injector dead times should be set before trying to do any other tuning, it has a massive impact on the fuel tables. Take a look at the ignition dwell table, any value above 2.5 is useless, set them to 2.5

I've written a guide on how I set up the logging to make more useful logs for my uses, track mostly but works on the road too. Data logging G4+ guide

your ignition trim isn't activating until 90% throttle, try bringing this down to about 60%. Also what your describing is the car bogging down, you can sometimes get this if you have too much grip and not enough power available, try data logging what's happening, RPM, Boost, Ignition angle, wheel speed and injector duty for a few key ones. Either log on your computer or get the ECU to log what's going on and post up a copy of your file and datalog on the forum

Either map switch or just the option to have different activation conditions allowing the different controls to become active

Hi Simon, When you say two different maps do you mean two completely different map files? Sure this is something that can be modified in an update as it is an option I was wanting to offer my customers who use their cars on the road and 1/4 mile

It's a rev 3 forgot to add

Just setting up a plug and play on an MR2 and can't get the fans to kick in, I've dropped the activation temperature and they still don't kick in. Â Using the original base file till everything is tested, is there an option I'm missing?

Hi Nathan, Â My log it's been changed due to access to the dealers area. I'm in Scotland if that's of any use to you