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Jay Storm

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Everything posted by Jay Storm

  1. Just a quick video shot of a recent ProSolo launch using the LinkPlus launch control funtion. 6000rpm launch rpm and 7500 rpm revlimiter. Motor is a mildly modded EJ22 in a 1996 Brighton chassis. Weighs 2450lbs without me in it. Enjoy!!! Jay Storm
  2. Yes, my manual is written for the LPV14. Tell me....is the LPV10 firmware supposed to drop the tach signal for 1sec upon LC activation? Mine doesn't drop, so I make a mental note of how long I've had the clutch in as to bringing the rpms up for a launch.
  3. Depending on the version of G1, it can be a good deal. Being a direct plug-in, you'd want to make sure it's at least a V4 or higher, so you have PCLink tuning ability. The version number it is will also shed light on what features it has. They are pretty simple to setup, as I am no computer whiz and had mine up and running in fairly short order. There is online support through enthusiasts who still use the older systems as well as generous technicians who answer questions that seem to come up. My advice is to determine what version it is, then download the manual for it. If it looks like it has the features you'd want....buy it. Good luck, Jay Storm
  4. Thanks Cameron, Dave at Dtechmotorsport got me up and running almost a month ago. Tuning is progressing along nicely thank you!!! Jay
  5. Thanks Jay!!!! You saved the day!!! The AUX2 wire tapped into the clutch switch works like a charm......except I don't see a way to adjust the rate or timing retard as spelled out in the manual. It's all good though, I don't need timing retard to spool any turbo and don't make enough power to concern myself with lighting up 4 wheels at once.... This "self-help" G1 forum is awesome, the Link people should check it out sometime! Jay Storm
  6. Trying this again......I realize this is an old G1, but support is support right?. The manual text is very confusing in it's descriptions. For instance, when using a plain old dash switch, it instructs to use a normal open switch, which will close upon activation. This seems very simple to me, in comparison to reading the wacky descriptions of clutch pedal positions, when the clutch is being engaged or released, etc..... Can anyone explain to me why I cannot simply tap into the wire that is on my clutch switch? I verified that it does indeed close the circuit when the clutch pedal is pressed in.....which would be no different than a N.O. dash switch closing when I push it in. Thanks, Jay Storm
  7. No I don't, sorry.....I happen to have a new MSD air temp sensor with plug. It's still in the bag. I ended up using a factory IAT sensor on my setup (after I spent the money on this sensor). If you're interested, let me know. Thanks, Jay
  8. Launch control on a Subaru Impreza running G1 LinkPlus (LPV10): The manual describes the AUX2 as providing 12v when the clutch is released (engaged) and dropping to 0v when the pedal is pressed in. My chassis wiring diagram shows the opposite (starter interlock relay), with 12v being passed through to ground only when the pedal is pressed. Is this the experience of others wiring in Link ECU's on Subarus? I can add a second switch on the pedal, r maybe a DPST switch running both ways to satisfy both systems, but it'll be a PITA within the confines of that area. If I can configure the ECU to operate off a NO switch instead of a NC....I can tap directly into the existing wiring. What say the experts? Thanks, Jay Storm
  9. I looked through the Flyin Miata manual I have.....the ECU pinouts are not there. Sorry.... Jay Storm
  10. Just an update that the subboard swap worked out great! The little Impreza is up and running on Link power, and tuning is progressing along nicely. Jay Storm
  11. I found this thread on page 3.... http://www.linkecu.com/forum/forums/LinkG1Forum/429490685
  12. Which side do you need? The ECU side or the car side? I may have something for the ECU side. I'll look tonight. Jay
  13. I don't see anything in the settings to change the Lambda from narrowband to wideband. That does not mean it can't be done, only that I don't see a way to change it. It would be nice to tune with a wideband instead of the narrowband. Thanks, Jay
  14. Big thanks to Dave at dtechmotorsport for his quick reply via email! Hope to have this LinkPlus running sooner than later!!! Jay Storm
  15. I have a LinkPlus G1 (LPV10) which I'm told does not have the correct sub board (SN: 006571) for my Subaru. I also have an older LEM D42V4 using a sub board with SN:006668. I am told this LEM came from an AVO turbo kit for a USDM Impreza EJ25. If the sub boards can be swapped out, it'll save me a little money and alot of time in shipment from NZ to USA. Hopefully Simon or Ashley see this and respond. Thanks in advance, Jay Storm
  16. Can anyone tell me if having all 4 dipswitches on the sub board "off" is the correct setup? Mine are all off and I don't get the LED on the sub board when powering up. I only get the LED on the mainboard, but PCLink will not connect to the ECU either. I hope this ECU is not dead. Any help is appreciated. Thanks......Jay
  17. Upon removing the ISC board, I found a resistor (R89) visibly discolored from heat. It pulled the same resistance as the others in the bank around it (2.35ohm) so I'm not too concerned at this point. What does concern me is the onboard MAP sensor. I thought that the G2 didn't have them. Chip is LPV10 - 160603 and up to this point, I have been assigning wires using the G2 pin diagram. Any insight? Thanks in advance, Jay Storm
  18. Thanks David! I will do that. I wasn't sure if I would need to move jumpers on the board or not. It is a 3 wire Subaru ISC, ISCO/ISCC/earth(shield, ground,etc.....). Jay Storm
  19. I know this is awfully late after the fact, but the STI headgaskets are the reason for all the noise in the first place. Your 98 Legacy is using a phase I EJ25D and the pistons clear the block at TDC by a small amount. The STI gaskets are thinner than the stock EJ25D and not allowing enough clearance. What you hear is the pistons kissing the heads. I imagine this has been sorted by now, but if not, surely you're giving your rod bearings quite the punishment. Jay Storm
  20. Is it possible to remove a fitter 6 terminal ISC sub board and use the standard ISCO/ISCC functions? This is for a USDM Subaru EJ25 application. Thanks in advance, Jay Storm
  21. Thanks Ashley. Kinda what I figured. The more I read the manual, the more I can determine where the values will want to be. As long as I can make adjustments to smooth things out and get the car up onto the trailer, A day at the dyno would follow suit. Thanks again, Jay Storm
  22. Hello, I have a Link ECU model Subaru D42V4 and sub board SN 006668. It is my understanding that this ECU is currently mapped for a MY2000 US EJ25 turbo. The ECU came from a running car, so I have no reason to think anything might be wrong with it at the moment. In fact, I haven't wired it in to my car yet. I won't be running any form of power adder and would like to know if the current map will be sufficient to allow the car to drive until a proper map can be determined. My concern is the MAP sensor being setup to see boost and the fueling/timing tables may be such that my NA application will be far from optimal since the MAP will never see more than ambient air pressure. Any info is greatly appreciated. Jay Storm
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