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Matt Dunn

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About Matt Dunn

  • Birthday 09/13/1977

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Timaru
  • Interests
    Circuit Racing, Automotive Electrics

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  1. I have struck this problem a few time one some cars I have wired too. What I would do on your diagram to fix it is, Where you have the ign switch only supplying power to terminal 86 on the main relay, and terminal 86 on the other two relays fed from the output of the main relay, I would have the ignition switch switch power to terminal 86 on all 3 relays, and the ouput from the main relay only feeding the +14V on the ECU and connected to nothing else. I have found this way also prevents the issue and depending on the way your loom is made may be an easier option to modify.
  2. I have had similar issues before with this, and struggled to find someone who could explain, I had been told ot was not possible but what I believe happens is, When the key is on, there is power from relay output 87 to the valve, through the valve to the ECU aux. What happens when you switch the ignition off, is that that power goes through the boost solenoid, into the ECU, comes back out of the ECU on the link power in wire, and goes back to pin 85 on the relay keeping the relay engergised to keep the loop going. Whenever I wire and ECU now I always have the ECU on a separate relay, or wire the power feed to the ecu to a relay output wire, not and relay input wire. To test, you can change the feed to the Link to pin 87 on the relay, rather than looped off 85.
  3. Ok then, sounds like I have it all setup correctly, just a matter of getting the settings right. I will see if I can get it right, otherwise I will leave it to the tuner to sort out when it goes for a tune.
  4. No this is not a clutched throttle so does not need that. I have tried that and can now get it to work as well as expected while in setup mode but will not work in on mode. I get error code 76. I am still suspicious of my two TPS signals. I have two outputs and if I manually move the throttle plate by hand 1st signal will go from 0% throttle at fully closed to read 100% throttle at about 2/3 travel and the 2nd signal will read 60% when the first one reaches 100% and then continue on to 100% at full travel. I have checked them in the runtime values, and the first signal only spans from 0 to 60% and then the voltage output value does not change for the rest of the travel, while the other one will span the full range of movement. This means that the Sub and Main TPS percentages are the same at fully closed throttle, but then are never the same for the rest of the travel and get further apart the more the travel. Will the link still be able to work with these two signals like that, and which one should be sub and main? I guess the main is the one that should span the full range?
  5. Ok I have had it start and run on all cylinders so most of it must be right. Having a heap of trouble with getting the E-throttle to work correctly though. I calibrated the FPS not a problem, Calibrating the TPS I had errors for Cannot achieve 98%. Reading through a few files on here I swapped the TPS sub and Main and then it seemed to calibrate ok, and sometimes the throttle works ok in setup mode if you move it slowly, but if you move it too fast you get the throttle plate oscillating back and forth very quickly. In on mode it does this then errors and stops working. I think I need some help in getting to the bottom of this fault, and have attached a log and the map. Log 28-09-20 9;12;40 pm Ethrottle Fault Link.llg G4 3UZFE.pcl
  6. Ok Next question, Injector and coil wiring firing order. I take it that I wire cylinder 1 injector to the output Injector 1 Cylinder 2 injector to the output injector 2 etc etc and same with the coils Cylinder 1 to ign 1, cyl 2 to ign 2 But is that with the cylinders numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, on one bank and 5, 6, 7, and 8 on the other bank, or is it 1, 3, 5, 7, on one bank and 2, 4, 6, and 8 on the other? Using the 1UZ-FE base map it has firing order of 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.
  7. Ok, yes that all makes sense.
  8. I have a 3UZ-FE with VVT and E-throttle, and a G4 Red Extreme with external E-Throttle controller. Just starting planning on the wiring and settings. Will the 1UZ-FE VVT basemap be a good place to start? Not worried about the tuning as I can sort most of that, but more with the trigger and VVT settings etc, as I have not configured a vehicle with VVT on two banks before. The file I have has trig2: VVTi Cam type set as OFF, Digital input 1 set as cam position RH Digital Input 2 set as cam position LH Auxiliary output 1 set as VVT cam solenoid RH Auxiliary output 2 set as VVT cam solenoid LH. Is trig 2 setting correct? and do I need a sensor on the trigger 2 wire at all or is it left unused. And do I just wire the two cam sensors to the digital inputs rather than analogue inputs, even though I presume they are reluctor type sensors? Trying to sort what wires will go where before I start. I have attached the pcl file I have so far. Thanks G4 Extreme for 3UZFE VVT.pcl
  9. ECU is a Blue Storm G4+. I have Aux Output 1 and 3 as Tacho and Speedo. I take it that these two outputs are capable of being Tacho and Speedo as I read only some outputs can do some functions?
  10. I have some questions on wiring the Speedo and Tacho Outputs. We are using VDO speedo and Tacho Gauges and I am trying to get them to work off Aux Out 1 and Aux Out 3. Not worried about calibration just yet as I think I have that side of it figured out, but trying to get the Key On Sweep to work so that I can make sure the wiring is right. Usually the Aux Outputs switch to earth, so does that mean that I will need some sort of external pull up resistor from ign to the signal wire, so the ECU can pulse it to ground to create a signal? At this stage I can not get either gauge to work.
  11. All the time like shown above is what we are after, so will just use 1 as FP and one a GP.
  12. Hi there, We are wiring a car that has two lots of fuel pumps, Is there any reason I cannot assign two outputs as fuel pump, Aux Out 7 and Aux Out 8. Will they both work the same, or does it get confused if you assign two outputs the same function.?
  13. Thanks. I have loaded the file and have it working and reading ethanol fine on the dash now. I have also been able to set some alarms in the dash for low/high ethanol content if it gets to far away from 30%
  14. I my car I run an 11 position rotary switch to adjust traction control, I prefer the switch rather than just a potentiometer as I can see and feel the adjustments on the go. I run the output to a AN Volt INPUT and run a 3d allocation table. I did this as I had no idea what slip % to start with and could try a wider range of settings on the go. After playing I now have it setup at 9% slip in mid position and a difference of 1% per click. I find it works quite well.
  15. I have been trying to figure it out but have not had success yet getting it to read Ethanol %. I emailed you a copy of my ECU program to have a look at. If you can have a look and make some changes or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Matt
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