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Matt Dunn

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Everything posted by Matt Dunn

  1. I have struck this problem a few time one some cars I have wired too. What I would do on your diagram to fix it is, Where you have the ign switch only supplying power to terminal 86 on the main relay, and terminal 86 on the other two relays fed from the output of the main relay, I would have the ignition switch switch power to terminal 86 on all 3 relays, and the ouput from the main relay only feeding the +14V on the ECU and connected to nothing else. I have found this way also prevents the issue and depending on the way your loom is made may be an easier option to modify.
  2. I have had similar issues before with this, and struggled to find someone who could explain, I had been told ot was not possible but what I believe happens is, When the key is on, there is power from relay output 87 to the valve, through the valve to the ECU aux. What happens when you switch the ignition off, is that that power goes through the boost solenoid, into the ECU, comes back out of the ECU on the link power in wire, and goes back to pin 85 on the relay keeping the relay engergised to keep the loop going. Whenever I wire and ECU now I always have the ECU on a separate relay, or wire the power feed to the ecu to a relay output wire, not and relay input wire. To test, you can change the feed to the Link to pin 87 on the relay, rather than looped off 85.
  3. Ok then, sounds like I have it all setup correctly, just a matter of getting the settings right. I will see if I can get it right, otherwise I will leave it to the tuner to sort out when it goes for a tune.
  4. No this is not a clutched throttle so does not need that. I have tried that and can now get it to work as well as expected while in setup mode but will not work in on mode. I get error code 76. I am still suspicious of my two TPS signals. I have two outputs and if I manually move the throttle plate by hand 1st signal will go from 0% throttle at fully closed to read 100% throttle at about 2/3 travel and the 2nd signal will read 60% when the first one reaches 100% and then continue on to 100% at full travel. I have checked them in the runtime values, and the first signal only spans from 0 to 60% and then the voltage output value does not change for the rest of the travel, while the other one will span the full range of movement. This means that the Sub and Main TPS percentages are the same at fully closed throttle, but then are never the same for the rest of the travel and get further apart the more the travel. Will the link still be able to work with these two signals like that, and which one should be sub and main? I guess the main is the one that should span the full range?
  5. Ok I have had it start and run on all cylinders so most of it must be right. Having a heap of trouble with getting the E-throttle to work correctly though. I calibrated the FPS not a problem, Calibrating the TPS I had errors for Cannot achieve 98%. Reading through a few files on here I swapped the TPS sub and Main and then it seemed to calibrate ok, and sometimes the throttle works ok in setup mode if you move it slowly, but if you move it too fast you get the throttle plate oscillating back and forth very quickly. In on mode it does this then errors and stops working. I think I need some help in getting to the bottom of this fault, and have attached a log and the map. Log 28-09-20 9;12;40 pm Ethrottle Fault Link.llg G4 3UZFE.pcl
  6. Ok Next question, Injector and coil wiring firing order. I take it that I wire cylinder 1 injector to the output Injector 1 Cylinder 2 injector to the output injector 2 etc etc and same with the coils Cylinder 1 to ign 1, cyl 2 to ign 2 But is that with the cylinders numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, on one bank and 5, 6, 7, and 8 on the other bank, or is it 1, 3, 5, 7, on one bank and 2, 4, 6, and 8 on the other? Using the 1UZ-FE base map it has firing order of 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2.
  7. Ok, yes that all makes sense.
  8. I have a 3UZ-FE with VVT and E-throttle, and a G4 Red Extreme with external E-Throttle controller. Just starting planning on the wiring and settings. Will the 1UZ-FE VVT basemap be a good place to start? Not worried about the tuning as I can sort most of that, but more with the trigger and VVT settings etc, as I have not configured a vehicle with VVT on two banks before. The file I have has trig2: VVTi Cam type set as OFF, Digital input 1 set as cam position RH Digital Input 2 set as cam position LH Auxiliary output 1 set as VVT cam solenoid RH Auxiliary output 2 set as VVT cam solenoid LH. Is trig 2 setting correct? and do I need a sensor on the trigger 2 wire at all or is it left unused. And do I just wire the two cam sensors to the digital inputs rather than analogue inputs, even though I presume they are reluctor type sensors? Trying to sort what wires will go where before I start. I have attached the pcl file I have so far. Thanks G4 Extreme for 3UZFE VVT.pcl
  9. ECU is a Blue Storm G4+. I have Aux Output 1 and 3 as Tacho and Speedo. I take it that these two outputs are capable of being Tacho and Speedo as I read only some outputs can do some functions?
  10. I have some questions on wiring the Speedo and Tacho Outputs. We are using VDO speedo and Tacho Gauges and I am trying to get them to work off Aux Out 1 and Aux Out 3. Not worried about calibration just yet as I think I have that side of it figured out, but trying to get the Key On Sweep to work so that I can make sure the wiring is right. Usually the Aux Outputs switch to earth, so does that mean that I will need some sort of external pull up resistor from ign to the signal wire, so the ECU can pulse it to ground to create a signal? At this stage I can not get either gauge to work.
  11. All the time like shown above is what we are after, so will just use 1 as FP and one a GP.
  12. Hi there, We are wiring a car that has two lots of fuel pumps, Is there any reason I cannot assign two outputs as fuel pump, Aux Out 7 and Aux Out 8. Will they both work the same, or does it get confused if you assign two outputs the same function.?
  13. Thanks. I have loaded the file and have it working and reading ethanol fine on the dash now. I have also been able to set some alarms in the dash for low/high ethanol content if it gets to far away from 30%
  14. I my car I run an 11 position rotary switch to adjust traction control, I prefer the switch rather than just a potentiometer as I can see and feel the adjustments on the go. I run the output to a AN Volt INPUT and run a 3d allocation table. I did this as I had no idea what slip % to start with and could try a wider range of settings on the go. After playing I now have it setup at 9% slip in mid position and a difference of 1% per click. I find it works quite well.
  15. I have been trying to figure it out but have not had success yet getting it to read Ethanol %. I emailed you a copy of my ECU program to have a look at. If you can have a look and make some changes or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Matt
  16. Ok, next question We have adapted the 4AGE 20V CAS to the 3T dist, but the dist rotates in the opposite direction. Will this affect the triggers? The main 24 tooth wheel appears to be symetrical and looks as though it will output the same signal in both directions, but the bottom single tooth appear to be ramped in one direction and looks like it builds up the the step on the wheel. I am unsure what affect this will have on the signal? We may be able to machine the wheel so that the ramp is gone and the tooth just sticks out, but is it necessary?
  17. Ok. I can see the "secondary injector DC" in the aim and think I can figure out the AiM end. If you give me a brief how to on here, and if I cant figure it out, I will email the file to you. I am still in the process of working out what sensors etc I will run to what input etc, so the map is not complete yet.
  18. I have an AIM dash and have had it running on my Blue Storm G4+ fine. I have upgraded to an Extreme Black and copied the program across and it all works fine.. What I want to add is ethanol % on the dash as a display. The Dash is an older MXL, not the current MXS. In the dash there is not a channel for Ethanol %, however there are things in there that I dont use. Is it going to be possible to make it work? I have had a look through some of the can stuff but it it a bit over my level. Just would like to know if it is going to be possible ?
  19. Matt Dunn

    ECU upgrade

    Kind of answered the question, Can I load the Map from a G4+ Storm into a G4+ Extreme. Obviously I will have to change the settings for the extra inputs/ouputs that the new ECU will have, but is it as simple as connecting to the extreme and then opening the map from the storm and then doing a store?
  20. Matt Dunn

    ECU upgrade

    Hi I have a question , I currently have a LINK G4+ storm blue in my car but, but really want to have some more inputs and outputs as want to add some more features. I was looking at changing to the Storm Black, but I run traction control in my race car and it appears that the new Storm Black does not have that feature? Is that correct.? Other option is we are also building another car, so I could put my current blue storm into that as that car will be more basic, and would have to go for the Black Extreme G4+ into my car. Other than having to fit an external map sensor, what else would I have to change? Are the A plug the same wiring between the Blue Storm and the Black Extreme? Can I load the map from one to the other? Thanks Matt
  21. Ok then sounds good. So to trigger the coils, we will need to fire two coils at once, can I run a 4 channel igniter and use wasted spark mode in the ECU and split ignition drive 1 to two channels of the igniter, or is the output of the igniter not strong enough to trigger 2 channels?
  22. Hi all, We are building a 3T-GTE and are planning on running multicoil and are doing away with the distributor cap and rotor. We have modified a distributor to take the sensor out of a 4AGE 20V dist, so it will have a 24 tooth and a single tooth signal. First question is where do we time it? I think that with the G4+ you can adjust the base timing to where ever, but we have the ability to place the pickup anywhere on the shaft, so is there any place that is better than another. Is the single pulse better to ocour exactly at TDC no1, 10 deg before TDC, 20 deg before TDC, or does it really not make any difference. Second question is, the engine is a 4 cylinder, but uses 8 sparkplugs, 2 per cylinder. We were thinking of using 4 wasted spark coils to fire the 8 plugs. Are we better to run one coil with both leads to the same cylinder, or run true wasted spark, and fire two coils each time. First way would be simplier, but then the coil has to fire two plugs under compression load rather than one under compression load and one under almost no load?
  23. I have been given the task of wiring a Linkplus G1 to the Lexus V8 and have a couple of questions. I think it is a Linkplus V14 and has lexusv8 on the sticker on the end so I presume it has the right sub board in it. First question is on the trigger wiring. There is two shielded wires in the loom for triggers, a grey and a black, which appear to have a trigger wire, a Shield and a wire that I think went to the 8V feed? The two wires from the crank and cam sensors, do i connect them to the power feed and the trigger signal wire, or do I connect to the Trigger wire and the shield wire and that the power feed wire in the loom is not used. Second question is if I scope the triggers I take it that the crank trigger will look similar to a toyota 24 tooth signal, and the camshaft one will be a single pulse?. It is probably easier for me to work out the trigger wiring by scoping the signals than by actually getting to the sensors themselves. Matt
  24. There is a reed switch in the speedo head, and it switches to earth. You do need an external pullup resistor which is usually inside the Factory ECU. There may be a few other things connected to the wire which may be giving you some sort of a signal that you are seeing, but I would guess that adding a decent pullup resistor to it will fix the issue. Usually they give a very good clean signal, and you only seem to be getting very low voltage, less than 500mv. Usually will be a 5V or 12V square wave.
  25. Was just playing with the program earlier thinking that as using an output from the ECU to switch and Input to the ECU seems like a waste of two inputs/ouputs, where it should be able to be done internally.
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