Phil Williams

Hi Cameron, The best knock setting for your application based on calculation would be the 7000Hz setting. The -3dB points on the filters are approximately +/- 1kHz around the center frequency. Although I would recommend testing each of the frequency settings to see which gives the best result. You can try fitting two Legacy sensors and see if this improves the situation, but I would reccomened for best results use the Bosch knock sensor as this is the particular sensor that the system is optimsed for. Thanks, Phil

Hi, There sure is. Plug in the cable, turn the key to the ON position and hit F3. The ECU will now connect to the laptop. Once connected, select ECU Controls > Clear ECU Fault Codes from the main menu at the top. Done. Turn the key off and disconnect the cable. Regards, Phil

Hi Juho, When a vehicle was manufactured 2006 or later is is required to use the CAN bus for OBD diagnostics. The communication protocol for this standardized by ISO 15765. ISO 15765 involves requests for information and responses, this is something you can not configure in our ECUs. We are working on a solution that acts as an interface between our ECUs and an OBD compliant scan tool. Unfortunately I can't give you a date on when this will be ready. Regards, Phil

Hi Kieran, I can't see how the factory ECU would smooth out the signal as this would be a super inefficient way to drive a DC motor. My guess is they will expect you to use a multimeter which has it's own internal filtering providing results as claimed in the FSM. You're ear can hear anything upto about 20kHz, so the OEM must be controlling it at a frequency above that. Unfortunately we don't have a solution for you, but I can tell you that running it at a lower frequency will not damage the throttle body. Regards, Phil

Hi, Is the throttle position accurately tracking the target? If so then you have it setup correctly. Most throttle bodies do make a hum when just sitting controlling the plate. The noise is often effected by the switching frequency, Have you heard the throttle body running on the OEM ECU? Regards, Phil

Hi Lawrence, This does occur on some setups, some more so than others. Try spanning a 4d fuel table of the 'RPM Rate' parameter and use this to correct for the error. Any other suggestions are welcome. Regards, Phil

Hi Garris, Yes everything is now done through the Axis Setup menu. Adding rows with interpolation is now taken care of within this menu. Thanks, Phil

The difference is nothing. The advantage of this is you can set your end ignition cut as 100% and put your hard cut method as fuel with the hard limit activation set to 0. This cuts both fuel and ignition so you won't get a big fuel dump into the exhaust. (Reduces the huge explosions.)

Yes you are correct, the smoother the cut when cutting fuel, the higher the chance for detonation. I suggest having an aggressive fuel cut. The 'rotary only' cut is a special cutting method designed for twin rotor engines. It cuts the first rotor then the second rotor with both fuel and ignition. If this mode is selected on a piston engine, no cutting will be performed.

Need to work out why it doesn't keep paragraphs...

Here is how the current rev limiter works. There is a cut within the control range (smooth cutting), then there is a hard cut following that. The control range cut is all based around a percentage cut. The percentage can be considered a percentage of power reduction. The control range is below the RPM limit set in the table. In the advanced settings you can adjust the percentage cut at the start and end of the control range. The percentage cut at any point within the control range is interpolated from the start and end cut. The percentage is the number of missed firing events over a fixed number of firing events. Say for example the fixed number of firing events is 32 and the percentage cut is calculated to be 25% at a specific RPM. This means that over the 32 events, 8 of them will be missed, this spread out across the 32 events means that every 4th event will be missed. Hence reducing the power output from the motor by 25%. This same principle works for any given percentage. The hard cut is obviously all cylinders completely cut until the RPM falls below the hard cut activation. Adjusting the start and end cuts controls how aggressive the limit comes on. You will notice that there is a TPLow and TP100%, this if for correcting the start cut based engine load. (You don't need such an aggressive cut at lighter loads). This system of cutting allows you to have a limit that holds a perfectly stable RPM. Having a perfectly stable RPM limit allows for much more repeatable launches when using launch control. The choice between fuel and ignition cut is based on the application, there are pros and cons to both. Launch control typically calls for ignition cutting as it allows fuel to burn in the exhaust, banging and helping the turbo to spool up. With ignition cutting the chance of detonation is very small. The downside to ignition cutting is the banging in the exhaust can force the exhaust valves open, this can take load of shims (they may fall out) or it could allow a hydraulic lifter to pump up meaning the exhaust valve won't close fully. Heavy duty valve springs protects against this problem. The final problem with ignition cut is that it destroys catalytic converters, hence stopping factory from ever cutting the ignition. Fuel cutting eliminates the banging exhaust and keeps the exhaust valves happy, but can punish the bottom end instead. Detonation is common when fuel cutting (explained by Kieran's last post). Even factory cars detonate on the fuel limiter. Even though detonation is not ideal, engines can withstand it, as long as its not too extreme. When Nissan designed its factory rev limiter they probably weren't thinking that people would drive down the road wide open throttle on the rev limiter, although in saying that the cars were sold with a warranty. Rev limiting is never going to be good for the engine, but if its necessary do it and you engine will probably be fine. I know from experience that stock sr20 heads don't like ignition cuts as the hydraulic lifters pump up and hold the valves open, causing the motor to run on less that 4 cylinders for a few seconds. There is rev limit ignition trim which is ideal for fuel cut as it reduces the chance of detonation. If you want your fuel cut to be more aggressive like the stock, turn advanced mode on, change the control range from 200 down to 100, and you will start to see results. The next thing to do is increase the start cut values. Hope this points you in the right direction.

Hi, Your factory sensor should be fine with the ECU. If you need to replace it because it is broken, contact [email protected] and they will be able to tell you the part number that we recommend. Yes you will need to change some settings if you upgrade firmware. There is a list of changes that comes up when you begin the upgrade. If you are not familiar with tuning and setting up an ECU, it is probably best that this is left to who tuned your vehicle. Regards, Phil

Try bumping your %TP threshold up to 1.5% Regards, Phil

Hi Ferenc, With the current firmware, this is correct you can't. We have identified this problem and have fixed it, in the next firmware release there will be more options to allow you to do this. Regards, Phil

Hi Daniel, I've had a look at your screenshot. Do you have any error counters incrementing? One thing I would suggest doing is checking the condition of the VVT solenoids, it looks to me like there is something mechanically wrong. Failing this, try adding a little more P and I gain, this will increase the level of aggression that the ECU is using to control the cam positions. Regards, Phil

Hi Cameron, You will need to wire a pull-up resistor from 12V to the auxiliary pin. The ECU only drives low so the pull-up will help generate the square wave. A typical resistor value would be 4k7 ohms. Regards, Phil

Hi Ash, If you set the advance rate to 0.0, timing will not be reintroduced. Regards, Phil

Hi, I've had a look over your map. I'm assuming your running a 'group n' setup where the throttle plate is permanently cracked open? Here are some tips to possibly fix your problem: - Set cyclic Low %TP to the next percentage above the resting position of your throttle plate when cracked open. - Set cyclic High % TP to 2 to 5 % above the cyclic low % TP. - Set AL Enable RPM to 2300 (holds cyclic idle active when under this RPM) - Set AL Enable TP to 40% (holds cyclic idle active when under this TP) - Set AL Deactivation time-out to 4s (returns to cyclic idle when RPM is below 2300 for 4 seconds) - Set Cyclic Mode to 'Always On' (cool down is used then the ECU controls a solenoid or the e-throttle base position, it will only come active after anti-lag has been active. This mode is designed to pump air through the engine to cool it down. The timeout you have set to 0 is how long it will cool down for) - Set Start cut to 30% - should smooth out the idle.' Let me know how you get on, Regards, Phil W

Hi Matt, By the looks of things, It will work. But we can't guarantee this without proper testing. The selection of base resistor value is important, 1k will be too high. Maybe something around 330R. By the looks of things the base current determines the current limit. You could measure the voltage across this resistor to determine the current, play around with resistor values to get the desired base current. You will need an isolated scope too. Regards, Phil

Hi Jeremy, Would you not be better to sit there with your laptop and adjust the master fuel number during first start-up? Regards, Phil

Hi Ryan, 6.2kHz sounds correct for an EJ20. They must of changed to the second harmonic sensor on the Version 7. Regards, Phil

Hi Ryan, We stock a knock sensor that we have tested with our ECUs. For further information contact [email protected]. Regards, Phil

Hi Malcolm, The G4 uses all the teeth on the timing wheel to calculate crank position and speed. Regards, Phil

I have just run two of the new external e throttle modules in parallel to increase the current capabilities. This would be perfect for your application. Unfortunately for you to do this you would need one of the new red Xtreme ECUs. Regards, Phil

Hi, Just confirmed the problem. You have nothing to worry about. It will be gone in the next firmware release. Regards, Phil