Philip Griffiths

Just answered my own question/sorted the issue - frequency of the output was set far too low.

Hi, are there any off the shelf 12v PWM filters to smooth out the voltage signal from an output? (i.e. PWM/digital to analogue voltage converter) Wanting to smooth the signal to my IAC valve to stop it smashing back and forth due to low duty cycle. Thanks, Philip

Hi, might be a bit of a dumb question... my current IAC valve is causing numerous issues (sticking - are know to fail) and I have a bosch (0280140551/AC309) to install instead. This is a 2 Terminal version. Appears these are a rotary valve type that utilises set voltages through an armature for % opening, and must have a spring return (more info here: http://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w124/503103-idle-air-control-valve-airflow-versus-control-voltage.html). Would wiring be the same as if this were a two terminal solenoid valve/a four terminal ISC stepper motor and only use two aux's? Thanks, Philip

Yeah, control aux outputs with switches within PC link that you could add to the customizable blank page. Then either directly or via solenoids operate other bits n pieces in the car. Ah well, that would be a cool feature to add, especially if you could add different looking and type switches. Then PC link can be used as an in-car interface type thing. I havent finished the dash yet but it will be quite simple, my early sketch is attached. Then just running a Voom car PC enclosure and computer with SSD to a 10'' touch screen. Just running windows XP lite to make sure it starts up quickly, only takes a few seconds for the PC to boot now.Â

Hi, bit of a weird one...  I have built a car pc system with 10' touchscreen so that i can have PClink running while driving. This way I can build up the gauge cluster, as you can, in PClink with whatever variables I like. To make it even cooler, I would like to do away with dash switches for the rear wiper/demister etc. Is there a way to add I/O switches (as you can with gauges) in PClink to the gauge tab/window that control the aux outputs? Thanks, Philip

What is the preferred BAC (Bypass Air Control) valve for running with the G4?  I have heard a Bosch 0280140512 is quite good, or is there a more accessible alternative? Cheers Philip

alright, all the previous issues have been sorted. calibrated the triggers but it is doing some weird things (with the battery near flat due to cranking quite a lot). When i crank it (going by the LEDs on the triple igniter) to start with, while there is enough power, it now double flashes all three channels at the same time at TDC, but then when it slows down after a few seconds due to the flattening battery it goes back to the right sequential sparking. not sure what is going on but even if i have a flat battery in future i obviously dont want all cylinders firing at the same time.. any ideas? Philip

thanks guys, yeh the fault settings were at 0 so will try that once i sort out a new battery.. turns out it was stuffed so that should fix the voltage drop hence the drop in USB comms when cranking. Philip

Hi, having a couple of issues with my initial setup.. engine: Mazda 2.0L v6 JFT setup with parallel turbos. pclink disconnects when i crank it over while trying to set up the trigger calibration. would this simply be due to a voltage drop (battery may be slightly flat) or are there other common scenarios that could cause the disconnect? also, since i installed the latest firmware 4.7.1 the temp inputs have gone crazy showing 'above error high value' fault codes and displaying the engine and inlet temps as -50C. full fault code for one of them is 'ECU fault code 46:An Temp 2 above Error High Value'. Any idea what is happening there? if i clear the fault codes they just reappear. Thanks