Scott

I have very limited information on this, but suspect it runs 60-2 on the crank trigger wheel, and 4 teeth (two wide, two narrow) on the cam trigger wheel. Are you able to confirm this? Scott

Hi, It may worth recording a log so you can look at the digital input speed and frequency at your own pace. The digital input channels are designed to accept a maximum of 500 Hz, by my rough calculation you shouldn't be hitting this limitation until about 290 km/h. Is the sensor a hall or reluctor type sensor? Scott

Hyperblade has some videos of his setup in this thread: Scott

Hi Kam, Can you confirm the guage type you are using in PCLink? I'm guessing it is the dial gauge? Could you also upload a before and after screenshot showing the difference? Thanks, Scott.

We have the ECU connector in stock, if you want to know information on pricing or want to order then flick an email to [email protected] Scott

Normally ignition timing is done by monitoring the torque output on a dyno. Initially advancing the ignition angle will cause the torque to increase, but eventually the torque will flatten off as the ignition angle is advanced further. If the ignition angle is advanced further then detonation is likely to occur. I would recommend setting your ignition timing conservatively and then when you get your car to the dyno you can monitor the torque output and finish the ignition tuning off. In combination with knock audio detection gear this will protect the engine while maximising output. Finding out the ignition values that other people with similar engine builds are running would be useful. We released the G4+ Knockblock in the past year, so I imagine CAN-Knock will be something for the distant future. http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock Scott

It is a requirement for 360 to divide evenly (in whole numbers) by the number of teeth on the crank trigger wheel (including any missing teeth). 32 tooth wheels are an example of what will not work. 48 tooth wheels will not work either. Common tooth counts that work are 12, 24, 36 and 60. 33 teeth will not give stable control and will cause problems. Scott

The 'Nissan GTR/GTS' plug-in ECU had some dip switches to swap the Trig 1/Trig 2 connections, but other than that there is no special hardware differences that I can see. Hopefully you won't need to swap the trigger anyway, and if you do need to you can always do it in the loom. Scott

The Audi/VW 1.8T engines we worked with had two narrow teeth and two wide teeth on the cam trigger wheel. On our default Audi TT base-map we use the 'Multi-tooth/Missing' trigger mode. However this likely not work with a VVT engine, but the 'Holden V6 Alloytec II VVTi' trigger mode should work instead. Scott.

Good work on tracking down the problem. Scott

Hi, Sorry for the slow reply, we've been closed for our Christmas/New Year holiday, but are now back. Here are some links to blacktop engine ECU wiring info: http://www.sq-engineering.com/media/wysiwyg/pdf-info-files/4age-20V-BT-manual/bt8-fi-fuel-injection.pdf http://club4ag.com/technical_main.htm It would be nice to make an adaptor for the OEM ECU harness. You could either remove the connector from a factory ECU, or if one of our plug-in ECUs uses the same ECU connector we could supply one. Possibly our MR2 plug-in ECUs have the same connector, the pin count looks to be the same. Most 4AGE engines have a 24 tooth wheel in the distributor, the sensor for this should be connected to Trigger 1. Some 4AGE engines also have a 1 tooth wheel in the distributor, the sensor for this should be connected to Trigger 2. If your engine has no 1 tooth wheel, but has a 4 tooth wheel you could chop three teeth off to make a 1 tooth wheel. The Monsoon does not have knock control hardware, so whatever knock system you use will need to be external to the ECU. For tuning of ignition system as audible knock monitoring tool like the G4+ knockblock is recommended. The Monsoon does not have an onboard wideband O2 controller, so will require an external controller. There are many options on the market, the nice thing about the Link CAN-Lambda is that it uses the LSU 4.9 sensor (no free air calibration required) and the data comes into the ECU over a CAN bus (avoiding ground offset issues). If you're willing to invest the time and effort I'm sure you'll be able to install the Monsoon yourself and be able to achieve a good tune. Feel free to come back with any further questions as you go along. Scott

You are correct, if you open a log file without the relevant base-map open (or ECU online) then the search box for adding parameters will not find the custom label you entered. For example, I made AN Volt 4 a GP Temp with a lable for 'Left head Temp'. Here is with no base-map open: However if you have the base-map open, or are online with the ECU then the custom text will be found when searching for a parameter: It could be quite useful to have the base-map open when viewing a log file, so I recommend trying this. Scott

Thanks for the Christmas wishes. Happy New Year to you. The Link team are now back from our holiday. Scott

Good work. Merry Christmas to you too!

You are on the right diagnostic track with finding the problem. The ECU will not do spark until it is reading engine speed. What is the tooth pattern that trigger 1 and trigger 2 see? Please attach your base-map. Scott

There was a problem in previous firmware. Try the 5.6.4 release. Unless using 'Dual Mode' CLL the closed loop system looks at 'Lambda Average' for the measured reading. Scott

Hi, not on a Vi-PEC V-Series ECU. This is something that was introduced on the Vi-PEC i-Series and Link G4+ ECUs. Scott

The way you wired the ignition channels is correct. You will want to use the Rotor 1 leading ignition output for setting the base timing. I recommend disabling the fuel system while setting the base timing. Scott

When the wire-in ECU cases changed to split around the middle it made it no longer possible to fill the ECUs with potting compound to protect them. The Atom and Monsoon do not have a split case and are rated to IP66 for being waterproof and dustproof. Scott

Hi Dolfo, I'm happy to ask the engineers to consider this. The ECU already has a section where the gear ratio of each gear can be entered, so possibly they could build on this. Scott

Yes, I believe the G4+ will be able to do this. The question is what are the CAN IDs used and the data layout for the 'G4' mode? Scott

There is not currently any lockout to disable gear shift control by the driver. I can ask the engineers to consider adding this. Scott

Hi Gibbo, The Link G4+ has customisable CAN, so not a problem to send these things out. You will need to set one of the channels to 'Transmit User Stream X', where X is the next available number. I'm fairly certain the Aim doesn't have customisable CAN though, so you won't be able to configure the dash to receive the data the ECU is sending. Scott

It sounds like the wastegate solenoid is ok. That leaves the following options: Ignition switched +12V not reaching the solenoid.Ground (from ECU's Aux output) not reaching the solenoid.You should use a test light to check if you have +12v on one pin of the solenoid wiring connector (with ignition switch on). You should then set the ECUs Aux output channel to Test(On) and check that the other pin of the solenoid wiring connector has ground. If the +12V is missing then you should check your fuses. If the ground is missing then you should check again at the pin of the ECU. Scott

I can not see any setup problems in your latest files. One way you can test the ECUs CAN bus modules is to wire CAN 1 H to CAN 2 H, and CAN 1 L to CAN 2 L. Do not have anything else connected to the CAN bus. You can then send something out of CAN module 1, and receive it back into the ECU as something else on CAN Module 2. If this is successful it shows that CAN Module 1 and 2 are working well. I have modified your latest base-map to do this test. You will need to load the attached base-map into your ECU, and wire the CAN bus modules as described above. You will then need to setup a Digital gauge in PCLink like I have in the following video. CAN TC Cyl 1 should show the engine speed, so start the engine up and check this. If it is working then CAN 1 is sending the engine speed out on 'Generic Dash' CAN stream and CAN 2 is receiving it back as 'CAN TC Cyl 1'. https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/MTIwMjEzNV80NjI0MjYy Scott Pre Map - CAN test.pclr