Scott

The throttle closed switch is not worth wiring up to the ECU, as you can make the ECU activate a virtual auxiliary channel at whatever position of TP(Main) you want. Save the input for something else (like a driver operated switch).
Our Toyota plug-in ECUs appear to use the 'Std Bosch' calibration. If you select this do the sensors read approximately correct? If you want to do some testing here is the bosch calibration (in Ohms):

Is your fuel pressure regulator referenced to inlet manifold vacuum? If yes then I recommend wiring connecting the MAP sensor up to the inlet manifold and setting the Fuel System type to 'MAP Referenced'. Alternatively you could fit a fuel pressure sensor and select 'FP referenced'.
The ECU has a TPS Calibration function. Click ECU Controls > TPS Setup.
For the MAP sensor you will need to select the MAP sensor type (4.0 bar for the inbuilt sensor on the monsoon) and then with the key on and engine off select ECU Controls > MAP Sensor Calibration. This will make the ECU compare the MAP and BAP readings and adjust the MAP calibration so the reading matches the BAP.
Scott

I don't have a wiring diagram for the mitsubishi, but using a multimeter and our standard 6 pin idle stepper diagram you should be able to work it out.  The resistance between the coil 'pairs' will be approximately double the resistance between the +14V and one end of the coil pair.
On our EVO 4-8 plug-in ECUs coil pair 'A' are on pins 17 and 4, while coil pair 'B' are on pins 18 and 5. These numbers relate to the numbering of the ECU connector.
 

Hi Scott,
We have made a video that shows how to setup PC Logging, how to record the log file, and how to save it. This is for a G4+ ECU, but the procedure is similar for a G4 ECU.
If you want to know about G4 ECU logging then take a look at PCLink Help > PCLink G4 Users Manual > Logging Operating Procedures > ECU Logging.
Scott
 

Good morning,

We did some bench testing a little while back using the factory supra ignition coils with the factory ignitor and with an aftermarket ignitor.

Here are the dwell tables we ended up with.

Factory ignitor with factory coils



Aftermarket 'dumb' ignitor with factory coils



The part numbers for the components were:

Supra Ignition coil: 90919 - 02205
Supra Ignitor: 89621-22030
Aftermarket Ignitor: I2


Cheers,

Scott

Lets assume that the switch will apply a ground to the ECUs digital input pin when the driver wants to switch tables. Here is how the switch would control the ignition tables:

The same switch (digital input) could also switch the fuel, boost, VVT, etc tables.
Scott

Ok, here (quickly) are the steps you would normally take to set up the Knock detection system:
Make sure the ignition system is completely tuned. Set the knock gain to a value of 1. Select the correct frequency filter (we have covered this) Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels, adjust the gain until the max reading you get in the levels is approx 500. This is normally somewhere around high rpm and high engine load. Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels and adjust each cylinders gain until the cylinders all read evenly. Fill in each cell of the target table. Set the values to be 10% higher than the values you are seeing on the individual cylinder knock levels. Logging could be a helpful way to do this. Now whenever the knock level of a cylinder exceeds the current value from the knock target table, the ECU will try to retard the ignition timing for that cylinder to reduce the noise (knock) level. You can decide at what rate the ECU will retard the timing, and what the maximum level of retard can be. Benefits to having a quick retard and large maximum retard are engine protection. Benefits to having a slower retard and small maximum retard are the engine does not drop so much power.
Lets assume you have ended up with a setup like this:

At 50% throttle and 1500 RPM you are normally getting cylinder knock levels of 255, so you set the cell in the Knock Target table to 280. One day you lend the car to someone and they put a lower octane fuel into the tank. This causes the engine to knock lightly and produce cylinder knock levels of 320. The ECU sees this and retards the ignition timing until all affected cylinders (probably all of them) have a noise level less than 280 or until the Ign Retard Limit is reached.
Regardless of the cause of the higher cylinder knock levels the ECU will retard the timing in an attempt to reduce the levels to be below the level specified in the Knock Target Table.
One good way to view this is by logging on the Timeplot. Display each cylinders level and then then Knock target (threshold). This will allow you to easily see when a cylinder jumps up over the allowable level.
Scott

If you are doing ECU logging you can adjust the start time and end time when you download it from the ECU. However you can not trim an already downloaded log file or a PC Log file.
Scott

integrale8v, thanks for posting your experience. Good to know the dash does have some functionality using the Mini CAN mode.
Jespermaki, if you go for a piggy back type install using the Kurofune I would let the OEM ECU continue controlling the e-throttle, and then have the Kurofune control the injectors, ignition coils, boost, and VANOS. 
The Kurofune is able to do traction control so long as it has access to data for a driven and non-driven wheel speed. It does this by retarding to ignition timing and by either a fuel or ignition cut. E-throttle is not required.
Installing an after market ECU onto a car with CAN bus can be a challenge, and if you don't have the tools or experience to resolve the problems you could end up unhappy with the result. It may be worth trying to find someone local to you who has experience with CAN bus and also a CAN bus sniffer/capture tool. This way, with their help, the chances of success are a lot higher.
Scott
 

Hi Gosman,
This is unusual on an EVO 4. On some EVO 7 and 8 models the engine fan works on a PWM signal so this needs to be set up as follows:
https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/Mzc0NTYwXzIxMjE0NTU
Did the engine fan work correctly on the factory ECU?
If you are running high impedance injectors (greater than 6Ω) then you do not want ballast resistors installed.

HI Kenny, 
You will need to set the Trigger Mode to Multitooth/Missing.
Trig 1 will have a Tooth Count of 36 and a Missing Teeth of 2. The Multi-tooth Posn will be Crank.
Trig 2 will have the Sync Mode set to Cam Pulse 1x.

Ok, here (quickly) are the steps you would normally take to set up the Knock detection system:
Make sure the ignition system is completely tuned. Set the knock gain to a value of 1. Select the correct frequency filter (we have covered this) Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels, adjust the gain until the max reading you get in the levels is approx 500. This is normally somewhere around high rpm and high engine load. Monitor the individual cylinder knock levels and adjust each cylinders gain until the cylinders all read evenly. Fill in each cell of the target table. Set the values to be 10% higher than the values you are seeing on the individual cylinder knock levels. Logging could be a helpful way to do this. Now whenever the knock level of a cylinder exceeds the current value from the knock target table, the ECU will try to retard the ignition timing for that cylinder to reduce the noise (knock) level. You can decide at what rate the ECU will retard the timing, and what the maximum level of retard can be. Benefits to having a quick retard and large maximum retard are engine protection. Benefits to having a slower retard and small maximum retard are the engine does not drop so much power.
Lets assume you have ended up with a setup like this:

At 50% throttle and 1500 RPM you are normally getting cylinder knock levels of 255, so you set the cell in the Knock Target table to 280. One day you lend the car to someone and they put a lower octane fuel into the tank. This causes the engine to knock lightly and produce cylinder knock levels of 320. The ECU sees this and retards the ignition timing until all affected cylinders (probably all of them) have a noise level less than 280 or until the Ign Retard Limit is reached.
Regardless of the cause of the higher cylinder knock levels the ECU will retard the timing in an attempt to reduce the levels to be below the level specified in the Knock Target Table.
One good way to view this is by logging on the Timeplot. Display each cylinders level and then then Knock target (threshold). This will allow you to easily see when a cylinder jumps up over the allowable level.
Scott

You only need to connect to one of the cylinder 1 pins (A21 or A22).
If you are running 4 coils, each with a built in ignitor then I would expect your ignition setup to be something like this:

On the honda the spark edge is normally 'Rising', but if you have removed the factory ignitor and coil then I expect it to now be Falling.
If you can not get the engine to start then attach your base-map and a short PCLog of you trying to start the engine. 
Scott

I've just used a multi-meter on my tuning cable to work out the pins.
Pin 5 is VCC
Pin 4 is D-
Pin 3 is D+
Pin 6 is GND.

HI Kenny, 
You will need to set the Trigger Mode to Multitooth/Missing.
Trig 1 will have a Tooth Count of 36 and a Missing Teeth of 2. The Multi-tooth Posn will be Crank.
Trig 2 will have the Sync Mode set to Cam Pulse 1x.

Hi Hamish,
When a Link ECU sends out an ignition pulse it is a +5V pulse. Just about all ignition modules and coils with built in ignition modules use this type of signal.
I'm confident the 'Spark Edge' setting should be set to falling for your coils. What dwell values to use is more of a mystery, perhaps someone here has used these coils before and can advise.
Scott

Hi Sama,
The BAP is enabled from the factory, if you open the Runtime Values Window (F12 key) and look at the 'General' tab you will be able to see the current BAP reading in the left hand column. Here is some info on the accuracy at various temperatures:

Scott

Hi Jules,
You're thinking along the right lines, but what you want to adjust is your master fuel number. For example if you had a master fuel number of 15ms with your 320cc injectors it would go like this:
320/550 = 0.5818 (old injectors/new injectors)
0.5.818*15 = 8.7272 (ratio from above * old master fuel number)
Better to be rich than lean, so I would round up to a new master fuel number of 9ms. You will need to substitute your master fuel number into the maths above to arrive at your new master fuel number.
You definitely need to have it re-tuned properly, but this should get you a good starting point.
The master fuel number is found in PCLink under ECU Settings > Fuel > Fuel Setup > Fuel Main
Let me know if you run into any problems,
Scott

Hi Marc,
As Zack mentioned, you can open the help file and print the pages you wish. Generally if you are going to be tuning (and using the G4 tuning manual), you are going to have PCLink open.
I do understand where you are coming from though as being able to read something from paper without having to switch between PCLink and the help file is useful. I will put a suggestion forward to have the manual available in a pdf format.
Cheers,
Scott

Yes, I believe you are correct, most tablets that have a single USB can only charge or communicate. A tablet with two usb ports would be ideal.
It will take some playing around to setup the display as you like it. Often this can be very painful to do on the tablet itself.
The tablet will want to running 'proper' windows and not a crippled mobile version of windows.
Scott

You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet.
When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.

Hyperblade has some videos of his setup in this thread:

Scott

You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet.
When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.

Hi Adam,
I believe Blaine is talking about a water/methanol injection kit, like the AEM one. I saw a webinar the other day where the AEM controller has a setup like Blaine described. It basically means if you run out of water/meth mix or have a pump or plumbing issue the ECU would be able to reduce boost to protect the engine from detonation.

It is a requirement for 360 to divide evenly (in whole numbers) by the number of teeth on the crank trigger wheel (including any missing teeth). 32 tooth wheels are an example of what will not work. 48 tooth wheels will not work either.
Common tooth counts that work are 12, 24, 36 and 60.
33 teeth will not give stable control and will cause problems.
Scott