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Adam Marone

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  1. That sounds great Adam thanks a heap for your help!
  2. Hi All, I've recently wired in a bosch combined temp/pressure sensor for the oil system to ANVolt4 and ANVolt1 respectively. I'm using an early G4 and an AEM CD-7 dash and I'm trying to send the oil temperature reading over to the dash. Both of the two designated temperature inputs are in use for CLT and IAT so that left me with the only option of using ANVolt4 as a GP Input using a calibration table. My only issue now is I can't seem to be able to designate that analogue input as "Oil Temperature" to then send to the dash. Is there a way I can send the analogue data over to the disp
  3. Thanks for that Adam, So I checked the polarity of both sensors and the crank turned out to be correct but the cam was not so I did a pin swap on the sensor side for the cam, rechecked timing with the light but still no start. Looking at the start log it gave no trigger errors whilst cranking but as soon as the key was released the engine briefly coughed and four errors came up. I then hooked up the scope and found something interesting. You'll find the cam trigger starts to go high(?) around about the 13th tooth after the gap, this is shortly after cyl 1 TDC. The purple line
  4. I can undoubtedly guarantee there's only one tooth on the cam. Here's a video of the cam tooth while cranking anyway. the cams are timed using the factory cam positions. the only part that's aftermarket is the crank pulley/trigger wheel. So are you suggesting the cam tooth passes the reluctor at a time when it shouldn't be in relation to a tooth on the crank passing it's own reluctor? Am I wrong to think that this might be fuel related? because the timing light with x1 cam active whilst cranking on the timing light seems perfect, unless the time light is not telling the whole story.
  5. Adam, When you say "it's not happy" do you mean the cam or crank trigger is not triggering when the ecu expects it to? There is no doubt about the trigger arrangement. I've attached a picture of the trigger wheel I am using on the crank and in the other picture you will see two cam trigger types, the one on the left is the non-vvt early type which is what I have and the right one is the later vvt type which I believe Link already supports in the default mazda/duratec trigger type. You'll see in the log that it didn't fire on the first crank attempt as you described, This issue
  6. Here is a semi successful start and run log file with the trigger offset set to +280 degrees, supposedly firing on the exhaust stroke. I could only keep the engine alive like this with a good amount of throttle. +280 offset x1 cam.llg
  7. No luck yet. I have redone the initial trigger set up procedure, locked the timing to 0 degrees and found that I was in fact firing on the exhaust stroke which was at +280 degree trigger offset. Looking back in the manual it describes the relationship between the tooth after the trigger wheel gap and the trigger, stating if the gap occurs before cylinder 1 TDC then the trigger offset will be in the negative and vise versa. So I've punched in -80 in the offset field and hit enter confirming the timing marks on the crank case lined up at 0 degrees, I then enable the injectors but did not start a
  8. Hi, I need some help with setting up the triggering on my Mazda 3 LF-DE (early, non-VCT) engine. Crank sensor is reluctor type 36-1 and 1 on the intake cam. I have managed to start and run the engine with the sync for trigger 2 set to none but when I set it to cam x1 it will not start. The missing tooth on the crank occurs approximately 160 degrees BTDC cylinder 1 and the home trigger on the cam occurs about 10 degrees ATDC. None of the preset Mazda 3 or Duratec trigger setups will work because these later engines have VCT and different cam trigger patterns. I'm at a dead end
  9. Hi, A little puzzled on this one. I have a g4 storm with Aux 7 currently set up to drive a boost control solenoid (mac valve). After not being able to add boost over normal spring pressure I ran some voltage checks on the Aux 7 output and found this: Whilst engine off, ignition on; set to "boost solenoid" @20hz: reads 10.8v set to "test (on)": reads 0v set to "off": reads 10.8v No sure if it's related but whilst moving between these settings I can hear my idle motor click each time (engine not running but ignition on). Sounds like it might be a wiring issue but not quite sure where to start
  10. Scott, I'm running a 64bit 8.1 version and this is the first time i've attempted to connect with this particular laptop. I have also checked the device manager and it is showing that the device is working properly. Â Dyna Tune, How do I go about disabling this? Â Thanks
  11. Hi, Â I have also developed this problem, it seems I have tried everything so far to get it connected without any luck. The latest version of PCLink installs without any errors. I am running windows 8. What can I do? Â Regards, Adam
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