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anthony mcgrath

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About anthony mcgrath

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  1. (late reply.. blame arrival of baby boy lol!) thanks Scott. I'm looking currently at upgrading the MAP sensor. I've spoke to Thor racing and i'm told i can get a GM style 4 bar MAP sensor and an apexi style 3 bar MAP sensor. Looking over the software and MAP sensor types i cant seem to see either of these.. just a "GM 3bar" option and a "4bar" option. I can wire it in myself and perform the necessary calibration then take it to my local tuner to run a bit more boost but is there any MAP sensor you would recommend for easy install into the link G4 PnP ? thanks ant happy link owner
  2. just wanted to write a quick post on this forum to say how happy i am with my decision to run Link G4 on my 33 gtst. I've had the car 4 years+ now and modifications include: Forged bottom end - pistons n GTR rods 1.5mm cosworth head gasket rebuild cylinder head GT3076R top mount turbo 550cc injectors walbro 255 fuel pump  car made flywheel figure of 477bhp @ 1.4 bar (internal MAP sensor) with room for a chunk more power once i upgrade to 5 bar MAP sensor and a few other bits n bobs.  overall its a fantastic car - it outrun a new RS5 recently and a porsche turbo and an AM vant
  3. hi guys not sure if the pic of the plugs attached to this post or not but here's hoping heh! its from a previously removed set but tbh the other sets aren't coming out much different at all which is confusing me all the more! oh worth noting - i double checked the boxes (yep i keep all the previous sets of plugs and boxes with install/remove times) and they are actually copper 7's NOT 8's. I've got a set of copper 8's to go in next and some iridium 8's too - i'm trying to eliminate all options really. @Jurgen - i'll try gapping to 0.6mm with the current set of plugs and see what happens.
  4. hi guys big thanks for all your comments i haven't had chance to check this thread of late (my wife is expecting our first heh!). anyways i've been running normal NGK copper 7's on my car and its almost like clockwork - 6-8 weeks and they break down. If i remove them they seem fine visually - fairly even burn rate (altho cylinders 5 & 6 at the back seem a bit whiter a little bit). once i swap the plugs for another cheap set of copper 7's the car runs sweet - bonkers in fact for about another 6 - 8 weeks depending on how much/hard i drive the car. @Jurgen - thanks its comforting to kno
  5. hi all i've had my car mapped for a good few months now - its been running like a missile it really has and has been a great daily driver as well as a ferrari slaying hog! It fires up every day without issue and gets me to work and back as well as out for spirited drives! loving it! However i've gone through 3 sets of spark plugs since it was mapped earlier this year. When i take them out they seem to look okay - nice and tanned (not black or chalky white and peppered) and on WOT with link logging the AFR is spot on. I have noticed some insulation with scuff marks on them though. The
  6. hi Martin thanks mate - I've been looking at them and they stand as follows... I think you mentioned they should be about 50 (midrange) and the car adjusts up or down from that. I disabled the ISC control sol in pclink, tried setting my car to 700rpm then re-enabling it in pclink again but I just couldn't get the car to adjust really. In the end I did the same process but adjusted the idle valve so it was closer to 900 base idle which the car seems far happier with. I have noticed that once warmed up (ie after driving to work down the mway) the car drops to a low idle far less when sto
  7. great stuff thanks Martin - I'll give that a shot. I did indeed find that funnily enough last night in the analog_inputs-->fault_settings but was worried that setting it would knock the settings for the AEM UEGO WB out of kilter or something :/
  8. hi all I've got a couple of questions if thats okay.. Q1 - IDLE UP with heavy load on car to prevent stalling? I've been editing my idle and since getting my Q45 throttle body sorted I've been having much more success bringing the idle down from 1800rpm to a more respectable 900rpm. I was playing with the idle speed control (using closed loop sol/stepper mode) but having some probs. When I drive about at night I have headlights on, music, heater, possibly wipers (our lush british weather!) and if I'm operating powersteering then when I come to traffic lights the rpm drops quite quickly
  9. well just to append to this thread... I found out that my high idle was actually down to my Q45 throttle body. It has a throttle jacker device that works kinda like a thermostat.. a little plunger pushes open the throttle body slightly whilst cold. Water is fed through the throttle body and as it heats up a waxy substance melts and allows the plunger to push inward effectively relieving pressure off the throttle linkage (that bit that the wire is connected to) and lowers the idle. I didn't know about this but its easy enough to remove so I took it out and bingo! The idle dropped right down
  10. hi Rod thanks for your reply! Yep a friend suggested the idle screw but I cleaned that out before I fitted it onto my plenum. I recently removed the adjuster screw and I put some ptfe tape around it to help create a better seal as the little rubber grommet thats supposed to do that job was jaffed and I cant get another one. The adjuster screw on the idle valve does adjust the rpm but i've screwed it in quite far now and it isn't really gonna go much further and the rpm is still high. The throttle body all seems okay but It wouldn't hurt to take it off and check. Usually if there's any air
  11. hi all I've been having a high idle issue on my R33 skyline GTST since the ecu went in and I cant seem to find out what the problem is. I've checked the idle valve and thats screwed in quite far lowering the idle and there aren't any air leaks either as the idle isn't hunting or anything. I fitted a nismo thermostat and an oil cooler about 4-6 months ago. the oil cooler came off just before xmas because the oil just wouldn't warm up and the oil pressure was mental high all the time! ..and this week the nismo thermostat came off (whilst having a clutch change) and an oem thermostat (n
  12. hi all I've been having a high idle issue on my R33 skyline GTST since the ecu went in and I cant seem to find out what the problem is. I fitted a nismo thermostat and an oil cooler about 4-6 months ago. the oil cooler came off just before xmas because the oil just wouldn't warm up and the oil pressure was mental high all the time! ..and this week the nismo thermostat came off (whilst having a clutch change) and an oem thermostat (new) put back in. So I'm quite happier now - oil temps climb to a more respectable 70degrees and ECT seems to climb to about 62 as it goes through warm up in th
  13. thanks Jurgen I'm pretty confident the ign calibration is all sorted but I might get it in me garage and give it a triple check to be sure. I'm not sure how clued you are on the 33gtst (more than me I'll imagine heh) but for the purposes of anyone else reading up on here... Just to explain where I went wrong firstly... I set my timing gun to zero degrees & did my first calibration. I was getting readings of 25+ degrees and it was bouncing about somewhat. I would rev it up to 3000rpm and hold it there but the ign signal was terrible.. unreadable... Martin Battye phoned me and expla
  14. another thing I did notice is that after doing the set base timing the car actually drove a fair bit better than it did previously. I've only been taking it around my crescent and it hasn't even got above 2500rpm tbh but it definitely felt a fair bit more driveable than it did previously!
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