bazzasti

Previously David Bush wrote: Does anybody have a wiring diagram for hooking up a g3 to a Subaru eg33? Or at least info regarding how to wire up the two crank sensors? Thanks. You use the 12 tooth sensor, which is offset by around 60 degrees. You just input this into the Link. Also the EG33's need about 350% extra fuel to start when cold which is crazy. All my EJ's only used 50-70% extra fuel when cold. A few settings under trigger setup: Multitooh position: Crank Trigger mode: Multi-tooth Trigger Priority: Trig 1 Tooth count: 12 Sync Pulse: Cam I have tuned maps up to 325 kw atw for the link G3 and a heap of info: bazzasti at gmail.com also my youtube channel: www.youtube.com/bazzasti

As per the above, the car is hard to get to initially start. I had some massive backfires, one of which blew the muffler into pieces. So I re-wired the cam and crank sensors in a hope it was interference or something. However Simon can you please explain how the crank and cam wheels work upon initial start up and when the ecu starts to fire etc - as this will help me figure out what is going on. As per above, once running it runs fine and revs to 7000 rpm no worries.

P.S. When I say disconnect it, I mean the cam sensor.

Ash, I've just installed an EG33 using the LinkPlus G3 and after calibrating the timing it all seems very happy. I've used the following settings: http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii209/bazzasti/Triggers.jpg I've got 2 questions, my rough TDC marking / timing gun sees a calibration reference of 52 degrees. Does this sound about right? Also I've noticed that it doesn't matter which way I set the sync, either cam or crank doesn't make a difference and I've even disconnected it with no issues. I assumed as this is direct fire, sequential injection - that it needed the cam sync?!

Also this is the exact type of issue. I've seen it on 3 other late model Subaru's with the later model trigger system. http://www.linkecu.com/forum/forums/lem/320182014#542589902

I've got a LinkPlus G3. It worked fine with the early version Subaru trigger system running a lot of power. I was WARNED not to use the G3 with the later model trigger system by AVO and Phil Lowe as it caused issues with the rpm inputs and caused rev cut etc. However I thought I'd give it a go and now i've got the exact issues they warned about. The rpm mid run will go to random > 10,000 rpm. Worst I've seen is 75,000 rpm!!! Have installed new high quality shielded wiring however the issue still remains. The issue goes away when rev cut is disabled however this is obviously unacceptable. Will the Link G4 firmware solve this issue?

HI, Was trying to figure out how to calibrate the cams. This is what the manual says: Offset - The angle in crankshaft degrees between TDC and the first camshaft position signal when the camshaft is in its fully retarded position. This value can be measured using a degree wheel or obtained from manufacturers manuals. Alternately the Cam Angle Test function (found in the VVT menu after a Cam Control System has been selected) can be used to determine the Offset value. Then under "Cam Angle Test" Observe the Cam Test Runtime Values at the bottom of the PCLink screen (press Ctrl+F5 to make digital RTV's visible). My quesiton is what are these run time values? I thought my offset was around 14 - 17 degrees (Kelford 272 AVCS V7 cams). But when I add the offset in the current cam position goes from 14-17 to 28-34 so I am not sure what's doing. I thought with the offset if would've gone to 0 in the retarded position? Can anyone help? Cheers

That's interesting. My air con trim and fan trim seem to be 0 unless at idle where they goto their trim points. Any ideas? The air con is working perfectly - love the clutch fan stuff ie where you can turn the air con off at X% throttle - REALLY works well. Yeah I've done all that in the boost stuff and setup the ECT and IAT nicely. Just hard to get 20 psi from 0'C to 44'C.

Also fuel related, but I noticed that when moving the air con trim is 0. But when stopped it's at 0.01 ms? I would like to be able to have it adding fuel when moving, is this possible?

Okay I've got the IACV working pretty good now. I had to wire up the power steering digital input to a switch on the dash and set the power steering value to 4% to allow a more steady idle at higher IAT. At low IAT it's fine without it. I'll eventually hook that to an analogue out to get the air temperature compensation working perfectly, but at the moment I am just finding the optimum change over tempature. I don't think my Wideband does voltage compensation which means it's pretty much useless for doing closed loop due to battery voltage variances. The wideband output voltage for 14.7 @ 13 volts is not the same as 12 volts - DAM annoying as I found during the day it was perfect, come night time and it was all over the shop. So I've just set it up to do the idle @ 14.1 and it works a treat, cold start is awesome and very stable now. The last thing I am setting up is the boost control which is proving quite hard to get it consistently right. at different air temperatues. However I've setup a dual map. Map 1 has nothing, so the wastegate is off. Map 2 has the wastegate values and is activated when boost reaches about 14 psi. This improved spool very nicely and also seems to have helped a lot in controlling the boost. However I'm still not entirely happy, what else do you recommend to get it right?

I think I can see the problem. In Open Loop she idles fine but struggles a little when you load up the alternator or the air temp changes to much. However when the throttle is opened the idle duty goes to my base setting - VERY GOOD. The problem with the Closed Loop idle is it has some weird logic in it. When the throttle is opened and the car revs up to 4500 rpm for instance it opens up by about 6% above the base. Say base is 40, it will hit 46 and the idle will take ages to come back down from 1500-2000 rpm to 900 rpm and you usually see RPM Lockout - idle high or something similiar which prevents it from coming back down quickly as well. I want the IACV to shut to my base setting when the throttle opens. Having it open reduces my engine braking effect around a racetrack and it's been proved that unless running over 300 kw atw a bigger throttle body doesn't help in anyway for all conditions. Is there anyway to add some more functionality into the closed loop? On a positive note I was testing out the launch control today - you sure got that logic right, it's sensational, can't wait to use it at the drags P.S. I know there is no difference in potential times between the Mtech and the Link I am hoping for a <11.4 when I get eveyrthing sorted 100%

Yeah I think you're right regarding the coolant water, I was hoping it would help the idle but it didn't. I setup the car today and had it running fine with the idle in 25'C manifold air temp and did many test runs from 80'C to 100'C ECT without an issue. Then I went off to Calder Park and several drag runs (well actually about 20), and as soon as the air heats up under the bonnet and it just fails terribly in both open and closed loop - I had to add 4 units to get the idle to come up. It might work okay for 2L / TD04's but it really struggles with anything bigger by the looks of things. Btw ran an 11.6 @ 195 kph which was good still 0.2 off the Microtech but I'm getting there. It took me about 10 runs with the data logging to sort out the gearing and boost . Also I didn't use the factory IAC valve as I had it removed for when I ran the microtech and MY99 ones are rare and near impossible to replace without forking out huge $$. P.S. I have it connected to the positive terminal on one of the coils. I am thinking of wiring it elsewhere to test but I highly doubt that would be the issue.

Interesting, that makes a few things more clear. It's a LINK G3 and I think I'm using AUX 5, and it's set to 200 hz (I rang up and spoke with someone when I set it up).. The plumbing is very interesting because RS 1989-1994 and WRX MY92 - MY98 all use fresh air as the idle air source. The MY99-00 uses the cold side intercooler air to the manifold which therefore does act like a bigger throttle body. I've just set mine up like the older WRX / RS. However now that you mention the above I'll replumb it. Also something else to remember is all the WRX and RS throttle bodies and the idle air control valves are heated with coolant water - I always wondered what they did that for but now I am thinking it's to help keep the idle air at a constant temperature. Anyway will play around and see how it goes. Cheers and thanks

Okay the car is tuned well from cold to hot although at the moment I just want the hot idle to work properly.. Now I've used your figures and the car is behaving about the same to be honest. I did some more testing and it seems the main problems are: 1: The Link solenoid seems very erratic. I've set the minimum clamp to about 27.5 and this is where the solenoid is closed and any less than 27.5 and it opens up the other side. The car idles at about 450-500 rpm when the solenoid is closed or disconnected. Now setting the base idle using the open loop setup is where things get interesting. I set it to 45 and it idles fine from say 80-100'C. Several restarts later and all of a sudden 35 is the new point. I then watched the solenoid open and close and it seems that 45 set once is never 45 again. Why is it doing this? I would've thought that 35% is always a certain gate open amount? 2: I did some logging and when boosting the solenoid is open - sometimes 60%. Shouldn't it close the gate so I am not effectively having another wastegate? Also above you said I can adjust the link solenoid, how do I do this? It seems it's locked in position?

I've installed the Link idle air control valve and got it working but found setting it up is one of the hardest things I've had to do with regards to tuning. I get it perfect at a certain air temperature but as soon as the air temperature changes it turns to sh!t and there is no air temp compensation, only water. Also what does the Link IACV do under boost? Does it close up completely or do I need a one way valve - I'd assume not because the stock Subaru units don't. Another question is the Subaru stock computer remembers the CLL adjustments made through the map so after driving for 15 minutes the car hits the perfect AFR targets for cruise etc very easily and a lot quicker. Is this something the link does or could do in the future? I get around 10L / 100 km country which is exactly what my Microtech gave me and it didn't have CLL so for such a refined unit I am going to pushing it for a lot more and would like to see 9L / 100 km

Yeah they're only 272/272 with 11 mm lift so not to big and idle is quite easy to control but it loves to idle at 13.5. At 14.7 it sounds lumpy That AFR table will be awesome when it arrives. Something else I've noticed is the voltage effects the wideband dither. Voltage to low and it will cause the dither to run lean. Voltage to high and the dither is rich. I am using the injector voltage compensation to adjust but not sure if this is the correct way as when CLL is turned off the AFR's are fine again. Maybe a dither for different voltages would work? I've used an innovate and turboxs wideband and both had the voltage compensation issue.hmmmm

It's a wideband What is there any reason why you shouldn't be running CLL at idle with bigger than stock cams?

Due to big cams my car likes to idle at 13.5 AFR. However cruise it's fine at 14.7. Having the ability to have the ECU switch between the two dependant on rpm, tps or vehicle speed would be cool

Hi there, Just wondering what the value is for this type of coil. I previously used 3.5ms with another aftermarket ECU and that worked fine although it had different ignitors (these will be stock LINK units). I assume 3.5ms will be okay for 12-13V? Cheers

Hi there, I've been reading through the manuals and forums learning the ECU (my new LinkPlus G3 arrives soon). But I have a question regarding the Link ECU software. Under closed loop AFR and closed loop Idle you can set target values such as stoich (auto set to 14.7) and 750 rpm for example. Where do I find the target values for the closed loop boost control? Cheers