Steve Bull

So touch start and Stop/Start are almost the same. Now i know that touch start will also stop the engine that good. Ill get the PDM to send a tigger the accusump before starting. Then once it up to 20psi, via another group output ill send the signal for touch start on CAN DI 1. Then also get the pdm to send signal to stop on can di 2. Ill work something out. The accusump needs to be on before cranking with the logic that the start button has been pressed and RPM is zero, or Starter control /= engine running. i was using a few timers and logic and it worked somtimes but had trouble starting. When i by passed it and just has the ecu stop the engine it was fine. Must have a signal stopping and starting at the same time.

Looking into setting up starter control from my Can Keypad via a PDM. Now ive seen theres 2 options that will work 1) Stop/Start 2) Touch Start. With the 1st option do you have to keep the button pressed for it to work, rather than just one touch. With option 2 from what i can see just one touch of the button will start the engine. But will another input as the stop switch stop the engine. With both of theses when i press the Start button i want the Accusump to prime the MOG before the engine turns. I've looked into a few way for it to work, but it would mean holding the start signal until the oil pressure is 20psi.

Thanks any help greatly apricated, Ive emailed you.

Thanks any thing would help with the initial set up. If you could send the link. Trigger wise mine either the 8 pulse or 24-1.

Had the link ECU for a while but not had time to fit. But the bike is running not rich enough on boost. Ive bot got the time to do a full ecu swap so i was wondering if the link xtreme could be configured just to control the boost injectors. Not sure what the minimum data/info it would need to do this. Once it on the bike could then slowly start letting it do more. Still waiting for anyone who may have a base map for timing (and fuel) for the bike, just to give me a starting point.

With my EWP it needed 8v for it to work. So I also set PWM so it was getting 8v until around 75 c then increased to 12v/100% @ 88 c. Having it running at full power isnt needed as it will take too long to warm up. I found that mine worked better on for 3 off for 6 seconds and then on for 6 and off for 3 seconds, until it was 65 c.

The sensor uses a modern hall effect it needs a 5v supply and will output a voltage between 0-5v depending on the position of the magnet inside the shifter. Its not a conventional hall effect sensor it just uses the hall effect to work. https://en.ad-asahidenso.co.jp/technology/sensing-technologies/gear-position-sensor/ I wouldnt worry about what its called, just that it needs a 5v supply to give a signal voltage which will let the ecu know which gears has been selected.

If its the same sort of thing as mine is detects how close the metal/magnet. Then by wizardry converts that to a voltage, its not just on or off. No you dont have to convert any signal. When its all wire into the ecu just look and the AN Volt input its on. Open and view the parameters voltage, and enter this into the relevant gears voltage. The output from this sensor will be constant and will be between 0.5 and 4.5volts. The lugs on the side of the sensor allow you to position it to get the best signal, ie the best separation of voltage between the gears. Depending on which gearbox it is sometime the same signal is given for 1st and reverse. Mine one of these but its the same https://s1sequential.com/product/rotary-position-sensor/?ph=b82a332abf8a7f066ad85174

You need to give it a supply from the ecu 5v output, then the signal wire needs to go a "AN Volt input". Then you just configure the output voltage to the corresponding gear in the Gear Detection heading.

This looks similar to the one on my gearbox. If it has 3 wires then it will be the same. One for 5v input, ground and the signal. If that the case it will give different voltage for each gear. Which the ECU will work with. Otherwise this sensor isnt a position sensor. I cant see how it could otherwise send a signal for which gear has been selected. Unless it give a variable resistance which is it does you can use it as an analog sensor and just use the pull up/down resister to make it work

Thanks for that. For some reason i couldn't enter a formula as long as the one above. So i had to do it in two parts. Checked the values going through the gears and it seem to work. Then i changed the the CAN to channel transmit user stream 1. Then on then loaded generic dash stream onto stream 1. That allowed me to change the frame 3, 1st parameter gear (status) and substitute that with the maths channel. It works, now we have "R" and "N". Changing the CAN stream should now allow me to send what i want to the dash just by altering/substituting/swapping the CAN parameter on frame.

I decided to get another haltech Dash for the bike along with a G4x Xtreme. The only issues im having is the gear displayed. 1 to 6 is fine but on the car when reverse is selected the ECU sends 11 on the CAN which the Dash shows "11". Similarly with neutral the dash send 10 on the CAN and the dash displays "10". Ive been told that in the haltech dash need to have 0 for neutral and -1 for reverse sent as a CAN message. Is there any way that the Link ecu CAN value for reverse and neutral be changed. If not ill have to use a bit of smoke and mirrors on the spare PDM logic procedure to change the value and then substitute it for the CAN value sent to the dash.

Trying to do some CAN. If you sending "Generic dash" on one of the channels. Do you still have to go to streams and load stream "generic dash" to that stream. Or is this done automatically under Mode tab, Data heading and selecting "Generic dash" in the mode box. CAn more than one CAN device receive the same channel and CAN ID. All it is i need the Haltech ic-7 dash and Hardwire pdm to get the same data. It does work at the moment fairly well, with two generic dashes being sent on different channels/CAN ID. But its a bit messy and all the channel are being used. Thanks

Finally got time on the car today.....And it's fixed itself. Fly by wire found, calibrated, working and doing its stuff....Must have been a Pixey issue and they fixed it.

ill do it tomorrow

I didnt know if the upgrade had altered or any settlings need to be recalibrated, as sometimes happens. Its not registering the throttle movement or power going to Aux 9/10. APS reads correctly, it just that ill all worked prior to the upgrade, then didnt the second it rebooted.

Did the latest up date for the g4x xterme. It fly by wire, afterwards i noticed my throttle on start up was 3%, normally it was on 9% before the engine started and was cold. On trying to calibrate the TPS it keep coming up with errors. I can here the throttle clutch switching on and the throttle moving but the TPS reading doesn't change. Any ideas

If you look at the pin out diagram for your ECU then it will show the sensor ground(s). The xtreme has two i think, one for each A & B connector. So ive always tried to have the ground for a senor and the sensor input on the same connector. At one stage i was using all the inputs and each one, where needed, had a sensor ground. So you can have more than one sensor on each ecu senor ground. Im not 100% sure but i think the reason for using the ecu sensor ground it so you get a stable common earth that allows a better reference for the input and ecu.

Ive got the same Wideband and ive just wired it into the CAN. Much better and easy to configure, also Im told more accurate. The ground you on about if its the black is back to battery, but the brown for the 0-5v i originally put that to sensor ground on the ecu.

Ok then, ive got a G4x extreme in the car with a Haltech ic-7 dash. The dash which Im fairly happy with, admittedly not as good as the Aim but at nearly 1/2 the price, its good. Second project is the bike, which we are slowly spending on. That is also getting a G4x xtreme, was going to go for the Fury but the bikes got load of inputs for its basic operation ( Side stand, clutch and all that) and it has got 8 injectors which wouldn't have been an issue, less so as we're going down to 4. But i dint want to think if only i had 2 more. The first thing was a decent wideband just to check what's going on, or not, before we start the tear down, just to make 100% sure where the issues lye. One of the reasons for not getting the fury, i wanted to see first. Now im now thinking of rather than getting another dash putting the haltech dash on the bike. I was considering putting a Windows or android in the car before i got the Haltech. But the Haltech won at the time as some of the coms between the ecu & dash and boot up time wasnt good. However these things seem to have been sorted out. One thing i wasnt that happy with was the boot up time, some coming in at over 1 minute. Which if it had been on the bike i could have done 3-4 miles and not even been aware Ive been speeding. Which i dont think would be a good get out of jail excuses saying my speedo was booting up. I honestly didnt know i was going that fast. All i saw was that spinning round hour glass thing. So can anyone give me some advice on, if the windows/Android tablet thing, with something like Realdash and the G4x xtreme will it work well.

I just tried to look at the above file and cant get it to load on the link software. Is it some odd file.

Yes thats what i originally wanted to do, but there are so many other opinions out there it sometime make me think that i might be wrong as hardly anyone has done it. I thinking about installing just 4 1000cc Bosch injectors, which should be enough, at the moment. The only thing stopping me at the moment is that the bike will have to be off the road while i sort it out. looms can take a while to make and then theres all the trial and error of setting the bike up. It all the parameters like cam timing info that isn't to readily available. The wanted list still grow as well as the cost, i know ill do it in the end. It would be good if i could have a look at the map you did for it to give me a good starting point. I dont have any info on the timing (amount of advance).

Do you have any maps for them as i have no idea on timing and setting up all the parameters. I know that theres about 3 different crank timing, i think the bike is a mixture of Gen 1 and Gen2. Engine maybe an early Gen1, so that could be 8 timing teeth. But as for which would suit the build better, theres no real difference.

I been asking around the Hayabusa world for advice on the right direction and as always everyone got their own view. Some even saying keep the stock ecu as Suzuki knew what they were doing and you cant beat it. Any ideas on that one, would a Link ecu out perform a stock ecu or stock ecu + Power commander. I could go to 4 1050cc injectors but i want to be able to have traction control. So as i see it theres really only 2 ecus, G4x xtreme and furry. As the bike only a 4 cylinder both will do. Now the Furry has a built in Lambda but cost more, the xtreme could have a CAN lambda which would even the spec and price. Which ecu would be the best option. As normal ive had a mixed opinions to which one will work the best, Furry with in build Lambda, xtreme Can Lambda or xtreme lambda on a 5v input. Ive got my own view which should be the best but would like to know from the people that are in the know. Any help advice or even opinions would be a great help

Still not sure if to with 4 or 8 injectors which will limit my ecu choice. Ive been looking into anti-wheelie control and ive seen some linier potentiometers which will cover the whole travel of the front folks. Question is how would you configure the ecu to stop me flipping the bike.