Darryn Green

Hi There, I was looking into wiring for my rally car and I like the look of the Motec PDM or the Racepak smartwire, then I got thinking that maybe a PDM could be integrated into the new Link G5 (if and when it comes out), It would simplify wiring hugely to be able to do away with relays and fuses etc and just hard wire everything to the ecu, then with the right software we could see current draw etc on all the circuits which would make fault finding easier. If you have a look at http://www.racepaksmartwire.com/ you will see what I mean. Just an idea but I would be interested in your thoughts, thanks Darryn Â

I have a Davies Craig electric water pump that I would like to control with the link, the davies craig controller (that I could buy for more $$$ but I would rather not) works with a combination of variable voltage and duty cycle from the research I have done, here is what I found, Phase A: The EWP pulses at 6V-- 10 sec.ON, 30 sec.OFF until coolant temperature is approx. 20 degC below the 'Set' temperature. Phase B: The EWP pulses at 6V -- 10 sec.ON, 10 sec.OFF until coolant temperature is approx. 5 degC below the 'Set' temperature. Phase C: The EWP is ON and supply voltage increases linearly with temperature from approx 5 degC below to 'Set' temperature. At 'Set' temperature the EWP is at full output. So is it possible to set up an output to do the above? I had a quick look and could see how to set up a PWM output but thats about as far as I got, would be good if it could be setup in a sort of open loop mode based on the ECT as the engine will not be running a thermostat, also could it be set to run for a set time after the engine is shut down? Any info or if you could point me in the right direction would be great! thanks alot Darryn

Hi there, Im not sure where you are located but this may be of some use to you, I did the last course and I learnt alot http://www.speedtechnz.com/Training/EFI+Tuning+Stage+1.html I have done alot of road tuning on rally cars etc and you should be able to tune all the map you will use on the road providing youre brakes are up to the task! I use a innovate wideband kit for logging, you can set it up to log so you end up with a table the same as the fuel map but with the afr in each cell, so just one run throught the map holding in each cell for a couple of seconds using the brake and accelerator to let the afr stabalise and be logged, then just calculate what you have vs what you want and change the fuel number to suit, after a few runs you will have it sorted, ignition map really needs to be done on the dyno but can be done on the road providing you have a knockblock or similar, as for ya car getting too hot on the dyno it isnt really a problem as each run doesnt take that long and it puts no more stress on ya car than tuning on the road hope some of that helps! Darryn

Hi there, could be alot of things, could you post a file of youre map etc and Ill have a look and see if theres anything obvious (if its pclink capable), is it running a map sensor? check the map reads 100 when the engine is stopped and drops to around 40 to 60 when the engine is idling, could be timing or fueling at idle too so check the maps for holes, sorry if any of that was over youre head Darryn

Hi Jurgen, thanks for your reply, the rallycar im using it on doesnt have E throttle tho maybe it could be an option to retro fit one with a bit of kiwi know how! i like to run the antilag pretty agressive so ill need a reasonable solenoid, iv currently got the throttle held open all the time but its a bit of a pig to drive on the road so im keen to find a solenoid that will work, keep up the good work! Darryn

Hey sorry to hijack ya thread but this does seem related, does anyone know where i can get a ecu controlled air bleed valve from that will bypass the air for antilag? is there something made aftermarket somewhere or a part off a common vehicle i could make work? thanks alot Darryn

also forgot to ask, what is the max boost the internal map sensor will run? thanks Darryn

Iv got a 1840cc turbo BPT mazda engine and a V14 linkplus to run it, its supposed to have a base map in it for this engine according to the guy i brought it off, when i got it it was set up for group injection but i rewired it for sequentual injection as its in a rally car and i want to run antilag on mode 1, the engine cranks over but wont start, iv done alot of checking and have narrowed it down there being a problem with the trig 2 signal, when i crank the engine the sync/cyl error counts up, iv checked the dizzy, the trig 1 signal puts out 5 volts, the trig 2 signal only puts out 0.4 volts, could this be the problem? any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks Darryn