Jon

Hi Chris I have a hand controller here in Christchurch. It was bought new in 2007 but was barely ever used. Are you still looking for one?

Ok cool thanks. Good tip on the timing, i've just read more into that and yeah the process i'd used for setting the timing might not be right.. i'll give it another go tonight and see what happens

to clarify, yes i am using the internal map sensor on the g4+. the external sensor has not been used since the g1 was in it. my question is: was the external map sensor typically wired in separately or was it normal to wire it in to the factory AFM plug? i didn't own the vehicle when this was done so i don't know if they might have made other wiring changes to accommodate their use of the AFM plug, and could that be causing my issues now.

I have another G4+, just as before. The old map i'm referring to is the external MAP sensor I was running with the old G1. It hasn't worked right since i first changed to a g4+ (and removed the external MAP from the g1)

Hey guys Bit of an update. About a month after the last post, the car was stolen. Since the car didn't actually run properly they didn't get far with it but that didn't stop them from taking my ECU and everything else they could carry. While I was lucky enough to get the car itself back, I'm now back to where I was a year ago in regards to tuning. Same problem exists except now i don't have the option of putting the old G1 back in it since the old map sensor was among the parts they took. One thought I have is that whoever did the original G1 install had the old external MAP sensor wired directly into the factory r32 AFM plug, does anyone know if that's normal and would they have had to modify the loom for that to work with a G1 plugin gtslink? I think the key thing to note here is that it did run fine on the old G1 with the external MAP sensor so i'm sure there is some difference with how something is connected now vs then. The only way i can get it running is to up the master fuel value to 35-40ish and almost gas myself to death in the garage.

thanks adam my thoughts also on the post start enrichment. i have already tried winding up the master fuel way beyond 25%, to the point where the idle got very lumpy, and it would at least stay running but the moment you give it any accelerator it dies again. it also seems the warmer the engine gets the worse the problem becomes. once warm it will only start, then die instantly. if i can't sort it, i may even resort to putting the g1 back in it so i can at least drive it back into town and get to a tuner.

hey guys, anyone managed to have a butchers at this?

Hey Adam Here's the tune and the logs of this happening. Today it's happening when the engine is pretty much still cold. Not sure what other info is relevant but it's really an rb25de+t and is running 390cc injectors currently. Let me know if there's anything else you need. Thanks! r32tune.pclr Log 2017-05-14 2;50;53 pm.llg

awesome, thanks adam. i should be out there again on the weekend so i'll get a log then.

hey guys i'm having further issues with this. turns out we fixed one problem but now i've tried to get the car back into town the other night and discovered that it only runs ok while cold. it seems that once above about 40~50 degrees the fuel leans off enough to stall it, and dies instantly with throttle. i'm able to start the engine again but if its warm then it will die a moment later. this tells me crank enrichment is probably the only thing that's getting me going in the first place. i'm running pretty much just the included base tune on the G4+ on what is essentially a pretty stock rb25det. i haven't played with any major settings other than calibrating the tps & map. i found that if i wound up the master fuel to 40 (normal ~14) it would idle rough but i could at least drive it around the property at idle and it wouldn't stall. will still stall if i give it more than about 2% throttle. everything worked fine until i put in the G4+ so i'm confident this is just a tuning issue. i'm guessing the fuel tables on the base tune don't work all that well with my setup. anyone able to offer some suggestions on what i should be looking at or maybe some resources i could learn basic tuning from? i just need to get it to the point where it can be driven into town for more work and a tune (about an hours drive). thanks!

Have sorted this. The engine runs reasonably well on the base map after connecting the onboard map sensor instead of the external. Had to adjust the master fuel up considerably as the default setting was getting nowhere near enough fuel and would stall moments after starting. Not much left to do now before I can get a tune! Cheers for the help

Awesome, thanks so much for the help! appreciate it

Yep the ecu is brand new. I didn't realize it had an on-board MAP, I was assuming it ran off the external map sensor like the old G1. The manual seems pretty light on details around this, all mention of map sensors seem to refer to externals. I don't suppose you know what size ID/OD vacuum hose it takes?

Hey Adam, it's a pnp gts-link. I'm pretty sure I was getting a static MAP reading with the key on of 99kpa. That's a neat trick with the vacuum hose, I'll test further when i can get out there next, probably on the weekend. Also I was getting a fault code for the stock o2 sensor at 0.00 volts - she's a dud. I've got a spare so will replace that but I didn't think that could be causing this issue, correct me if i'm wrong. Thanks very much

Thanks for the response Simon TPS is calibrated, base timing is good and advance looks to be working fine as the rpms are lifted. Default master fuel value was on 7 which is horribly rich for my setup, took it down to 5 i think before the idle smoothed out and black smoke disappeared. I haven't touched the existing MAP sensor, which is likely to be as old as the G1 link that was in it. Is there likely to be any compatibility issues there? i don't know what scope that one has, should i need to set that somewhere i.e do i need to tell the link whether it's a 1bar or 3bar sensor etc?

Hey guys I've recently pulled an ancient G1 out of my car and have put in a G4+. Since the G1 was pre-pc tuning days (2001-ish) it wasn't possible to export the tune off the old one. I've got it started and running with the rb25 base map provided, but the problem is the engine tries to stall when it gets any kind of throttle, i.e starting and running at full vacuum is fine but once it gets near atmospheric pressure it just stalls. What should i be looking at here? Do the default settings have it trying to run off the original AFM even though it already has a MAP sensor? The main problem for me is the car is stored some way out of town so I need to get it somewhat drive-able so i can get it into town to a tuner. The engine is basically an rb25det minus the vct, running some oddball 390cc injectors, apart from that you could say it's pretty much stock, as far as the ecu will be concerned. I'm assuming there may be some part of the base map that doesn't agree with my setup. Apologies for the noob questions and thanks in advance

the tune was initially done in auckland somewhere, likely on 98 fuel. when the car was in nelson after a few months it started losing power a bit and it went to a workshop who said timing was too advanced (no 98 available in nelson), and wound the cas to the most retarded position they could. ran ok from then on, and it stayed at that position after the headgasket job. if i advance the base timing any bit at all it makes it idle very rough (didnt even bother trying to drive it like that) . strange because now i'm in christchurch running 98 and thats how it used it used to run.. perhaps the first workshop changed a setting using the hand controller or something? thanks for the advice, much appreciated

I have a G1 gtslink. I would like to know if the g1 stores fault codes and can cause Rich&Retard like the stock nissan ecu's do. Reason i ask is that after having my head gasket replaced, my car didn't run well at all, it was severely lacking power and felt like the timing wasnt advancing properly or something. I found the problem to be fixed after the car sat in the shed for a number of months and the battery had drained completely dead. so after i jump started it and went for a drive it was pulling hard again like it used to.. it then got used a few times over the next few weeks but after a couple days of the battery having charged up, the problem came back, so back into the shed the car went and i left the battery disconnected, a few days later fired it up and what do you know, it runs properly again. so it seems that whenever the ecu has battery power, it develops issues after a day or two and goes into "limp home" mode like an oem ecu would. when the ecu loses battery power and drains completely flat, problem goes away - temporarily. this problem initially started once i had my head gasket replaced. anyone have any ideas?

i am based in nelson but the car is now based in christchurch, undecided whether its coming back at this point as i may end up down there as well by new year. either way i'll be going to a new g4 with the help of nzefi they seem to know their stuff. thanks for the advice, much appreciated

ok well the car was making a lot more power before i had the head gasket done. i have spoken to another mechanic and was told to take the car to an auto electrician who will be able to read the engine fault code from the ecu but im doubting this as its not a nissan computer would i be correct assuming this? the engine idles fine and runs smooth enough but once it comes on boost it is really lacking in power. would you have any idea what could be causing this? i thought maybe the timing wasnt advancing but have used a timing light and it is. so i wouldnt have a clue. could it be a faulty map sensor or something?

well that would depend on where you are welding wouldn't it? if its somewhere near the ecu then perhaps its a good idea to get it out of the way to be safe, but otherwise i wouldnt think thats necessary.

hey guys, i have an r32 skyline gts-t running an rb25de+t. i bought the car out of auckland about two years ago and it ran really good for the first few months, but it seemed to have slid downhill fairly quickly. the engine was built and tuned up in auckland and im guessing they tuned it on 98ron fuel (a luxury we dont have in nelson)as you would if you live somewhere with a constant supply of it. i would like to hear from someone who knows whether running a 98 tuned engine on 95 would cause the engine to not run so great? its had a bad head gasket for a while and as such didnt see any use over the last 12 months or so and i thought that was the cause of the issues, but ive just had the head gasket replaced amongst other things and now it is running better than before, but still feels like it is out of tune and doesnt pull nearly as hard as it did when i first got it. also my ecu is the old school G1 that can only be used with a hand controller. im a bit of a novice can someone tell me what the lambda setting does? it can either be set to on or off. thanks in advance