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Gavin Magee

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Everything posted by Gavin Magee

  1. The box I have here came from a 335i. I picked this one as it has the shorter ratios. It's from one of the earlier models, but I'd need to double check the numbers to try and find out what year exactly.
  2. I've been waiting for an ECU that will also provide control for the BMW DCT transmissions. I did hear a rumour that the G5 platform may be able to do this. Just wondering if this is the case and if so, how has this been implemented? Ideally, direct control would be excellent, but even control via CAN may be a viable solution. I know that some people will suggest that I could decode the OEM CANbus myself but I don't have a vehicle hear to do that (neither am I experienced enough with CAN at this stage for this particular task). Many thanks Gav.
  3. Thanks Vaughan, That makes at least some sense with regards the dwell time (runtime) values so I'll rule that out as a possible issue for the moment. You were indeed right on the base timing. I checked again and I was roughly around 10deg out (retarded from target). I can only assume I must have referenced the wrong mark on the crank pulley by mistake. That has now been corrected and verified with the engine running. Again today, I was able to fire the car from cold and continue to make some adjustments during warmup. Although this time I let the logging run. Again once the engine got above 90deg or so, I noticed one or two slight hesitations. I restarted logging and managed to capture the issue. It seems I am loosing trig 1 signal (only when the engine is hot). You can see the log below 'CRX rpm drop trig err'. I also tried cranking when hot and I'm consistently getting a loss with the trig 1 signal. I've tried reducing the voltage threshold around cranking and idle with no joy. I also tried increasing the trig filter and neither helped at all. Possibly just an old and worn sensor (this car being a 91 model)? Logs are attached along with the current calibration and the scope file during cranking. CRX cranking trig V thresh reduced filter 3.llgx CRX cranking trig V thresh reduced.llgx CRX VT trig scope cranking.llgx CRX rpm drop trig err.llgx Niall CRX VT.pclx
  4. Hi all... I have a quick query about dwell time on cranking. I currently have a Honda CRX VT (91 model obd0) on the dyno. The car was running perfectly as I was adjusting idle/fuelling etc before getting into tuning. Suddenly the engine stopped (unfortunately I wasn't logging at the time). This was as if someone just switched it off... no spluttering, no hesitation or anything, just stopped immediately. After some basic checks I noticed that the dwell time on the tuning parameter list was showing more than 50ms which is of course ridiculously high. I then tried cranking the engine to see what dwell was doing and it was showing between 20ms and 50ms, yet the highest figure in the dwell table is 6ms. Needless to say, the engine is still not firing and I got one or two loud backfires when cranking. I am still seeing a spark during cranking although it doesn't look particularly strong but not the worst I've seen. The question is... why am I seeing these huge dwell times in the logs during cranking? Is there something going on in the background of the software during cranking that results in massive dwell times? Surely the dwell table should already account for the lower battery voltages when cranking? Just to add, this is the civiclink92-95 G4x ECU with an adapter harness to suit the OBD0 vehicle. The trigger setup also required changing to work with the OBD0 distributor. Only mentioned for reference. The calibration and a couple of logs of cranking are attached... Many thanks Gav. Niall CRX VT.pclx CRX cranking 1.llgx CRX cranking 2.llgx
  5. It's a 2 wire sensor, which I had assumed is a normal reluctor sensor, but maybe it is a different type? I drove the car to at least 50-60mph and still zero signal. This was a bare shell rebuild and so only the required components were refitted, hence the single abs sensor and no more CANbus or ABS unit etc.
  6. Having some trouble getting any signal at all from this sensor (in normal use). This car is an MX5 NC. It has a Honda K20 engine with G4X DC5 plugin. I have wired the front right abs sensor (2 wire sensor) directy to DI2 input (via OEM ECU header). This is an isolated sensor... as in, it is not connected to any ABS system etc... just the Link ECU only. I can connect and disconnect the sensor itself while watching the F12 window and I can see some random frequency data showing as I do this, so I know the wiring is at least making a connection. I have tried reversing the polarity of the sensor by switching the sig/gnd wires. Yet when the sensor is connected and fitted I get zero signal from it when spinning the wheel or driving the car. I should add that this is a brand new sensor and hub assembly from Mazda and I have even went as far as trying a replacement sensor from another known working vehicle. Still no signal. Tried changing all input settings I could see in the software (internal pullup, trig edge and so on). I assigned GP speed 1 with DI2 as the input. Then set driving wheel speed source to GP speed 1 (driven wheel speed source OFF) I would be reasonably confident there is something I have overlooked. Calibration attached below. If someone could take a quick look it would be appreciated. William MX5 K20.pclx
  7. Hi, I currently have a Porsche 993 in the workshop, (last of the air cooled I believe) and it's up and running with G4x Monsoon. What I am trying to familiarise myself with is the engine cooling or temperature measurement and control. These engines are also largely cooled by their dry sump oil system. Firstly, does anyone have a calibration for the OEM engine temp sensor? This sensor is mounted directly in the head, close to cylinder 3, however it is tricky to impossible to get the laser thermostat anywhere near it to be able to create a decent sensor cal. Also, if anyone has any experience with these engines... could you give a brief idea of the normal temps expected from this sensor? What is acceptable, what is too hot etc? Lastly, I would suggest that running these engines a little richer than the average water cooled engine may help slightly to keep temps down... has this been others experience? Of course any other relevant info is always useful. Many thanks. Gav.
  8. I'm about as confident as I could be with regards the wiring. That was my first suspicion. The wiring was done elsewhere but I've tested each individual wire for continuity and shorts and also tested for proper 5v and gnd etc. All looked good as far as I can tell. I have found a bosch throttle pedal (from a mk1 Audi TT) that uses the same connector but with a different pinout so when that arrives I should hopefully be able to put this one to bed. I'll aim to report back in any case with the results. For now... thanks again for the help
  9. Tested again. I changed the APsub100% setting to 100% just incase that was causing some weird logic. I also adjusted the input error voltages to rule out the potential bug you mentioned. Currently it's not triggering any error codes like this when using setup mode. I did several throttle presses this time and when you look at the voltage in the log it looks even more erratic. This is now both pedals tested today that are giving erratic signals. I'm now starting to think that I have been very unlucky and received 3 dodgy pedals. Latest log attached... APSmainsub log pedal2.llg
  10. Yeah potentially a dodgy pedal and also a throttle switch rather than a variable voltage. If that's the case though... why would the OEMs run a 5V, sig and GND when all they need is a GND and sig wire for the switched output? Makes no sense to me.
  11. Thanks Confused. Yeah that makes sense. Although two points that are still not convincing me... 1. There are three throttle open/close movements in that log. You can see that on all three, when I hold the throttle open, the APSsub eventually drops to zero volts on its own, then when I begin to close the throttle, the APSsub suddenly jumps back to full voltage and only then does it slowly drop on it's own 'curve'. Strangely, these traces look different to the image you posted above. 2. I just retested the original throttle pedal and it is struggling to show any life at all now on APSsub. I've attached a similar log with this pedal. This is telling me that the sensor (at least in that pedal) is actually faulty and degrading further. Hard to tell for sure and I'm reluctant to go ahead and order a 4th pedal lol. I'm just waiting for some hero to arrive and declare that these pedals are garbage and they have had the same problem. APSmainsub log pedal1.llg
  12. Hi, I'm currently having an issue with a customers vehicle. The car arrived to me already built and running. It has a Hella throttle pedal which is commonly found on VW vehicles. Same or similar to the model shown here... https://www.autodoc.co.uk/hella/10117984 The problem is that only one of the position sensors in the pedal will read a linear variable voltage. The second sensor acts more like a switch. I have a suspicion that this second sensor may be used for a kick down type function by the OEMs. This second sensor shows zero volts almost all the way through the pedal travel and then switches to almost full voltage for the last few percent of the travel. I have now tested three of these pedals both in the car and on the bench with the multimeter and all three give the same output. I originally thought it may have been a faulty sensor but it seems that may not be the case now. I find it unlikely that 3 different throttle pedals all have the same fault with the same symptoms??? Although maybe so. When I opened PClink on this car I found that the E-throttle was still in setup mode which was the only way the throttle would work at all. I wouldn't feel happy about tuning the car and letting it leave in setup mode (like the last guy did lol), as it would obviously have no failsafes in operation. Questions are... Has anyone encountered this issue before and found that maybe there is a common fault with these pedals? Is there a way that PClink can be configured to operate the E-throttle in 'ON' mode while only having one working variable pedal position sensor? The throttle body itself is a Bosch unit and so that is working fine. I have attached a quick log showing some throttle movement. If you look at APS main and sub voltages you will see that APSmain is tracking perfectly, while APSsub shows very erratic and random voltage in comparison. Calibration also attached for reference. Regards, Gav. Escort Cosworth APS testcal.pclr APSmainsub log.llg Just to add... Looking at that datalog once again, it certainly does seem like the APSsub sensor is faulty as it is erratic and inconsistent. However all three pedals gave the same symptoms
  13. Thanks guys. I hadn't realised the CAN protocol had changed for G4x. I suppose I would have done had I not been too lazy to check Thanks anyway though... sorted now.
  14. Thanks Adam, So after changing that setting I now have a reading on lambda 1 other than zero, but it stays at 65.535 lambda. I assume that is simply the signal reaching it's limit in the software? Still not out of the woods. I have attached another log and the current calibration. PS.... On a separate note... I just realised that I thought I was replying to another thread on this topic that I had read through. My mistake lol. The thread I was supposed to reply on was the one below, which I see you also replied to previously. Makes little difference but worth mentioning. Mini R53 Lambda to CAN fault1.llgx Jimmy Mini R53 start.pclx
  15. Hi, I was hoping to revive this thread as I am having some issues with a Mini R53 G4x and ECU Master Lambda to CAN. I have it wired and I am not getting any CAN errors that I can see. I have re-checked wiring and it all looks ok. Unfortunately still getting basically nothing on the lambda signal other than some very random spikes in the log. I am using the CAN setup file from the previous calibrations above. I have a log attached and also the calibration which is just the Link base file with the CAN setup added. I also tested tested the CAN H/L pins with everything connected and I was seeing around 2.4V on both pins which doesn't sound correct according to the previous posts in this thread. If anyone has any ideas, it would be much appreciated. Many thanks Jimmy Mini R53 start.pclx Mini R53 Lambda to CAN fault.llgx
  16. Thanks Brad, I'll switch some functions about so I can use aux 1-4
  17. Hi Guys, I was hoping to use this circuit to run a Geartronics gear display as I am using the 0-5v signal from the barrel sensor as an input for the Fury ECU for closed loop shifting. I realise an easier way would be to simply splice into the barrel sensor signal for both the ECU and the display, however I have been told by the distributor of the Geartronics system that this will not work as it will give inconsistent results (not sure why this would be the case). The current problem I can foresee is that the Fury does not allow me to output a PWM signal with a frequency greater than 300hz. Can anyone confirm the best way around this? Thanks.
  18. Hi all... I have fitted a hall effect crank sensor to an rb26 as it was suffering from the usual factory CAS/rpm issues. It's using a custom machined 36-1 wheel on the crank pulley. The question I have is... Can I use the factory optical CAS for the cam sync/reset? Or does this require the higher resolution factory 360 tooth input to operate correctly? I realise I only need a single tooth input from the cam but does the ECU have the logic to decipher a reset even with 6 differently spaced slots on the cam? Cheers in advance.
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