Nathan Pryor

Hi Simon, you have helped me out alot in the past with my Link Plus so could I throw this question at you? RB25DET in HJ Belmont ute I got a turbo kit in mind from HKS, I see that in there product information they have the integral wastegate plumbed directly to the outlet of the turbine. So it begs the question, Do I need to run boost control? I only have a grasp on the basic theory of turbos. Thanks, Nathan

G'day, Mate wondering in your wealth of knowledge if you would know where I can obtain new replacement pins for a RB25turbo engine loom. I thought i'd ask since the other end of its spliced on to a Link Plus wiring loom. Cheers mate if ya can help.

Hi Ashley I have a narrow band oxy installed. The car is still on a base map before a proper tune. I want to road test the vehicle to check brakes etc. When I am giving it a bit of pedal what sort of oxy voltage should I see? At the moment it hangs around 0.4 - 0.6 volts at idle and no load rpm. I see from the book it should be at 0.8 in a perfect world. At what point (voltage) is the average vehicle considered to be in the lean zone? (For protection of my engine) Can the voltage be converted to a ratio? If so, whats the formula? Thanks Nathan

Hi Ashley Apologies for cutting you off during our phone conversatioin on Friday, dirty pre pay phones. Success, did as you said, took 40 units off the master fuel, and managed to get hold of a tuning module to change the cyl/sync ratio. I still can't get the timing bang on (5deg off from factory setting) but it's close enough to impress my mates with the sound this thing makes. Next engine start will be at Lodge Auto centre for a tune and a tank of Av gas. On a side note, I have wired a hot wire switched from the ignition relay, to the link and this wire also feeds power onto the fuel and engine relay coils. Now when I switch off the engine the ign relay drops out but it appears I get a back EMF from the Link. It self powers itself keeping the fuel and engine relays engaged!!! It must be the noise or something generated within the link been sufficent enough to generate enough voltage to back feed my fuel and engine relays. I banged in another relay to solve the problem but it was a weird find. Is this something you guys know about?

Hi Ashley, You were right, I have a triggering problem. Ran the diagnostic menu via PC link... Cyl pulse = present Sync pulse = present Cyl/Sync error = 200ish after a 5 sec crank. The rpm gauge on the gauges menu shows roughly 200rpm when cranking. Priority is set to sync. I cannot find the cyl/sync ratio adjustment anywhere in any menu??? Sequential fuel and multi coil modes are selected. I am running a LPV10b Link plus. Firmware version info 270202 Using PC link version 2.5 The subboard settings are Offset = 0 Sync = B (Guessing that's 11) I have again belled out the CAS wiring and it checks out as per the CAS schematic on this web site. Looking forward to your reply Thanks mate, Nathan

Hi Ashley Using an old school Link Plus. Been pretty busy at work, sorry for not getting back sooner. I have pulled all the fuses and bascically explored every menu and function via PC link and had a play with the sample programs. Trying to learn a little. With regards to starting, I haven't attemted again till I have my shit sorted out. Awaiting oil pressure sender that went faulty on me, then i'll check for trig errors. Please note that the little sub board is set up and I have 1 flash of the LED per 1 CAS rotation. I was just wondering about the Nissan factory Bosch O2 sensor. With power on the sensor to the heater wires and no CAS rotation, I have a reading on the Link of zero volts. Is this normal at atmosphere, ie no exhaust gases? (Closed loop lambda function is currently switched on)I will confess to droping it after a few beers and a massive session of dark side of the moon up at the shed sometime last year. Cheers Nathan Industrial electrician (just so you know im not all the way completely dumb)

Hi All Tried to fire up the beast finally, just got a shed full of fuel, a bang out the exhaust (hope the turbo survived, it was a big one)and some muffles of an engine trying to fire. oh and the rev counter works when cranking but when trying to fire it stops completely. Sometimes when cranking it flies right off the scale??? Right, I know nothing of engines and Links, I simply hope to start it and drive (or trailer) to the tune shop on a reloaded map after supplying the link with cylinder info spark injector etc. Done all that and still no joy. Only change from factory is wasted spark conversion plus the usual other mods. I have preformed the initial set up as per the book. I think I have a timing issue. You have to treat me like a six year old here, and walk me through it. Unfortuantely the paid professionals in my area have their hands full for a good couple of weeks. The link is running MAP control and I intend to change that to MAP + TPS and perform a TPS span calibration. Any help appreciated, cheers Nathan Hastings

I was planning to utilise the factory six channel ignitor. I can compromise and mount the pack on the fire wall near right on top of the sixth cylinder. Can I mount the ignitor say 600 mm away from the coil pack I hear that this needs to be as close as possible??? and secondly, whats your opinion on using the factory ignitor? Cheers Nathan Hastings

G day all, I have a question not really Link related but I am using one so can I ask it??? I want to ditch the individual coil packs off the top of the spark plugs and go to a single six post coil pack. Whats a good replacement coil pack? I was thinking of an EL/AU Falcon (wasted spark)because its a nice fit on the chassis. Secondly, a propose to hide it away and it will increase the length of spark plug leads to longer than I have seen in most factory set ups (approx 1.4m from pack to furthermost plug). Been wasted spark my lead resistance will be double because of the return via the opposite lead. Am i asking for trouble? I really want this to work. By the way this engines in a Kingswood ute, hense the non factory approach.

Hi all I have a Nissan series one RB25DET sitting in my Belmont ute. This is a Sunday project for me, so I would like to get the wiring finished with minimal fuss as starting the engine for testing sensors etc is currently not an option. I would be stoked if someone could supply the details of the firing order after the sync pulse that the v14 Link Plus uses so I can get the injectors and coils, loomed up real nice. Im 23 and this is my first major project so please excuse any nievety. Thanks Nathan Hawkes Bay, NZ