Kelly Gordon

Now that we have upgraded processing power, can we get a fuel film model for acceleration enrichment or the option to use fuel film modelling vs the multitude of enrichment tables we currently have?

I know you guys are hard at work on the G4+ replacement ECU. Any estimates on when it may be ready for prime time. I'm looking at a Fury but would hate to have a new, more capable ECU come out right after I buy a G4+ Fury.

Dyno results for my Full Race EFR 7670 kit on CA91 octane pump gas, pump and 50/50 meth, and C16 with inadequate boost control tappering to 25 psi at redline. Actually all three tunes taper to 25 psi except for the pump gas tune @ 16 psi.

Not really sure what a good price is. I was looking for around a grand for the ECU and an Innovate lc-1 wideband. No loom inlucded.

I have a Link G4 Extreme Pro, Silver box with all the features and I'm looking to upgrade to the G4+. Is it all right to post items for sale on the forums?

Are there any options for CAN wideband sensors with the G4+

The latest version of PCLink for the G4 should work. Just make sure you don't use the PCLink for the G+ range of ECUs.

Depending on the settings for edge triggering and the pull up resistor can effect how the sensor reads.

Previously Mitchell Middleton wrote: Hi Link staff. Just got my Nissan S15 tuned with plug in G4. It is fairly stock but it also has the Link 3 port boost solenoid running 14psi. However I noticed my tuner has tuned it in open loop mode. ( not closed loop ) Is this unusual?  That would be a question for your tuner. All Link did was provide options of either open or closed loop for tuning, you tuner decided to choose open loop. Its easier and quicker to set up open loop boost control so ask him if that is the reason.

I run the AEM 150 psig sensor for my fuel pressure and oil pressure indication. You really need to make sure the +5v and analog out wires aren't swapped on the AEM sensor compared to the stock one. Other than that there is no reason it shouldn't work.

Previously Jeremy Towers wrote: Hi I am running a silver G4 Xtreme using internal knock control. I seem to be getting valid knock readings when the system is working. The problem is that every time I load a saved pcl file from my laptop the knock control turns itself off. It can take several attempts and stores to switch it back on again. Can you suggest what might be causing this? Also, on the 'knock setup' page there is an entry for 'Freq' and 'Gain', then lower down there are two more entries with the same names. Are there two lots of filters? Can you clarify that? thanks. Maybe my settings are causing the problem above. I am running 4.9.8.1540 PCLink and Firmware. Knock sensors are the standard LS2 ones. Cheers, Jeremy  Everytime to upload a new map knock control will turn itself off. Not sure why but it does. To speed things along, upload your map, store and save it. Disconnect then reconnect then you will be able to enable knock control again. Perform another store and save and it will be active until you upload a new map. As long as you make your map changes online there is no reason you have to upload the map from the PC. I know some people open the last save version of their map then hit the connect button and it ask if you want to upload the map but if no changes where made it should be the same map currently loaded in the Link so you can just click no.

Just an FYI, 2000 miles since going back to 4.9.8 firmware and the injector problem still has not resurfaced. Is it possible for the firmware to be corrupted on download but the EMS not show any errors or faults? Like I said before the only thing that has changed since I had the initial problem was the firmware.

Just and update... The car has been running great for the last 850+ miles since the firmware roll back. Is anyone looking for possible glitches in the 4.9.9 firmware. I have attached the map I was running and had problem with. The only thing to change was the firmware.  I came very close to hydrolocking my motor more than once due to this problem and it could very well be an expensive glitch for someone if they aren't paying attention.

Previously murray douglas wrote: hi i have a link g4 extreme with a g4 adaptalink for my r33 gtr when i bought this years ago i also got an inovate lc-1 wb now i got a loom as attached  but have lost the bit of paper that told me what wire is what does anyone have the wireing guide for this for an lc-1   Check out page 12.  http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/g4-engine-management-documentation/subaru-v10-adaptor-manual#

No other changes where made besides the firmware rollback. So far I have about 300 miles on the car and the drivability has been great.  The last dyno session I had (with 4.9.9 firmware) had to be cut short because the engine was very knock happy and wouldn't take more than 13 degrees ignition advance without maxing out the knock sensors on cylinders 2&4. On the same map and a map with a slightly more aggressive timing map loaded the knock sensor has been essentially silent so far. I haven't really taken the time to flog the car yet but so far the car is running wonderfully. Â

I rolled back to firmware 4.9.8.1540 and put over 100 miles on the car today without a problem. I'm going to continue daily drive the car the next few weeks to see if the problem show itself again. If it doesn't come back I it would be wise for you guys to look for glitches in the latest G4 firmware.

Before I send the ECU back I'm going to go back to 4.9.7 firmware

Another thing that was changed on this build was my upgrade to from 4.9.7 firmware to 4.9.9 firmware. Are there any know issues with the latest and greatest firmware?

I attached a copy of my map and a log file that shows the problem happening a running engine two times. I've marked the times when the AFR goes full rich and runs like crap.

What else besides an ECU problem could cause something like this? I've already looked over the harness pretty throuroghly.

I have a silver G4 Xtreme Pro, S/N: 10594 w/ the Subaru V10 adapter harness. I recently dropped a new motor into my 2007 STi and everything ran fine for the first 3000 miles but recently I have been experienceing some odd injector behaviour. My car has fairly good fuel mapping on it right now but sometimes after I've been driving a while my wideband will go max rich (<9.5:1 AFR) and the car runs like crap. Sometimes it clears up, sometimes it doesn't.  The first time this happened it was on the #2 injector. The #2 injector turned on as soon as the key was turned to the start position and stayed on over the course of a few days. I initially though it may have been a harness issue and I proceeded to go over both the engine and the chassis harness' but found no signs of a grounded wire or any sort of damage.  I put everything back together, started the car and idle and AFR were perfect. I then went on about a 30 minute test drive and everything was fine for most of the trip but I had two occasions when the car went max rich again. I pulled over and performed the injector test function to make sure all the injectors are firing and this time it was injector #1 that was stuck on.  I cycled the key and tested the injectors again and they all clicked as they should @ 50% duty cycle. Cylinder 1 at times would cut out then begin clicking again after some time which has me thinking it may not be a wiring issue like I first suspected but maybe an issue with the injector drives. The same problem has shown itself on injector drives 1 and 2 so far, is this something anyone back at the factory has seen in the past. I think I may send the Link back for you guys to test it out for me. How can I make that happed. Thanks.

You need to know you r B.S.F.C., engine displacement, volumetric efficiency, expected boost level, and a host of other things in order for you to estimate your injector duty cycle. Odds are on most 4 cylinders you will have more than enough fuel with 1680 c.c. injectors unless you're runningin in excess of 40 psi and ethanol.   In short, no one will be able to tell you what you ask for with the data provided.

The cable comes with the ECU. Â If you purchased the ECU you have the necessary USB cable. Who tuned your car?Â

You need to look at you PC link file and determine what sensor you have wired up to AN volt 9 (analog #9 voltage) input. Â Once you figure that out you can determine if you need to tweak you error voltages or if you have a failing sensor.

What is the frequency the Link uses to control the fuel injectors and how does that compare to the stock fuel injector carrier frequency? I installed a methanol injection kit recently and the minimum trip for injection to start based on IDC should be 12% but with the trip pot at the minimum the meth flow is starting at around 1.5% IDC.  I would like to use a PWM table for meth flow but I'm not sure how to wire the aquamist into that. i have an inj + and inj - in my aquamist harness that can be wired to the ECU for meth flow control. Flow usually mirrors IDC.