Michael Lusby

Hi Guys, Just trying to figure out the best way to setup Antilag on my vehicle. I am thinking about this now before I go and replace the rather small stock throttlebody (56mm) which uses a 6-terminal stepper to a much larger throttlebody and incorporate a two wire ISC solenoid and free up three sorely needed outputs at the same time. My question is this, would it be more appropriate to install a small solenoid for controlling idle? and a much larger solenoid that is controlled as a GP Output dependent on the Anti-Lag standby switch being pressed? I already have an appropriate anti-lag switch fitted and wired so no problems there. My next question is which mode is better to be used, Mode 1 says to be used with an idle-up device (such as the large solenoid i mentioned earlier) but this would flow large amounts of air even at idle, so therefore am I correct in assuming that I would need to turn the anti-lag switch off everytime I wanted to the motor to idle at low rpm? Would it be better for me to use Mode 2, have the idle up device switched on with anti-lag standby and use cyclic idling? However I notice that this assumes that the throttle plate has been forcefully opened, which in my case it wouldn't be. So am I able to use mode 2 in this configuration? It appears to me that cyclic idle operates regardless of the anti-lag standby switch as it assumes the throttle is always open a significant amount? Or if I set my cyclic idle limit at say 2000rpm, and the throttle plate is almost closed and is jsut enough air to support an 800rpm idle, will the cyclic idle affect this as the rpm is too low and it would run the ignition with no retard to try and get the motor speed up? but when I press my anti-lag standby switch, the idle up device comes into play and the cyclic idle must then retard the ignition to suit? Looking for a good solution, and if there are any decent small and large two wire ISC solenoids?

Hi Guys, Wired in my gearbox cooler pump the other day to injection #8, it is active low and the ecu sinks the current flowing the relay winding. The relay winding is wired to ignition switched 12V, and the relay is open when the ignition is fully off and the ecu is powered down (i.e not powering the ecu up via freewheeling diode). I can turn the ignition on and the ecu fires up, primes the fuel pump etc etc and I can then test the output of injection #8 by pulling the output is low (gearbox pump running) or high (gearbox pump off), it also sinks current from a small bulb in the dash (also wired to ignition switched 12V). When I turn the ignition off, and the ecu goes into hold power mode to reset the idle stepper the gearbox pump fires into life so the ecu must be pulling injection #8 low to sink current. The ecu is holding the main relay open which is providing power to the relay winding and the bulb. When the ecu turns the main relay off the pump stops. It appears to me that the ecu firmware is setting injection #8 low when in hold power mode. Regards, Mike

Actually it appears I have answered my own question, there is 10-bit adc resolution between 0 and 5V, so 1024 levels, this gives me a quantisation difference of 4.882mV, so i would technically have 7 different possible readings. The output from the sensor needs to be amplified then. Mike

Hey guys, Just as the title says, I have an autometer 5249 thermocouple pyrometer; maximum output voltage at 930C is about 37mV. Does the ADC of the LinkPlusG3 have suficient resolution to provide decent accuracy at such small input voltages? and can I simply calibrate it from 0.00V to 0.04V by extrapolating the expected temperature at 0.04V? Or do I need to design an amplifier circuit to increase the output by a factor of 100, increasing the output at 930C to say 3.7V? Cheers Mike

Hi there, I have connected the vehicle speed sensor input into digital input #1. The input is configured with a pull-up resistor and the sensor is nothing more than a magnetic reed switch driving the line low as a tooth passes. Digital input #1 is unable to read the frequency or speed of this input however when configured as a general input the level of the signal is able to recognised as on/off. Interestingly configuring digital input #3 to be a speed input with the same settings as digital input #1 and connecting the vehicle speed sensor to digital input #3 results in the ecu recognising the frequency of the square wave. Reading through the manual says that digital input #1 is fine for a frequency/speed input, whats going on? is this is a firmware/software bug or is my LinkPlus G3 faulty? Surely if the ecu is able to quantise the signal to low and high conditions for a GP input it simply extends this behaviour to measure frequency/speed by counting the number of edge transitions (edge depending on which triggering option chosen falling or rising) in a given period of time. Link in question is LinkPlus G3 Firmware Rev 1.7.1 and PCLink 3.34 Whats the deal?

Hi there, I was just looking through the traction control options and was dissapointed to see that it only maps ground speed against rpm, meaning that permanent traction control is not possible due to %slip changing with the selected gear. Is there any plans to implement ground speed vs gearbox mainshaft speed so traction control would operate independent of gearing, therefore allowing permanent usage; this would also mean that %slip would be easier to calculate as it would simply be the ratio of gearbox mainshaft speed to ground speed. Setting a maximum permissable slip value, or maximum speed of gearbox mainshaft, against the known ground speed would be highly beneficial. This would make the car far easier to drive in the wet Are there any plans to implement such a feature or am I just out luck? Cheers Mike

Hi, I have a quick question regarding if the LEM G3 would be sufficient to run my engine or do I require a LinkPlus G3. I have a fairly modified Rover T16 Motor; over bored, flowed head, modified cam grind etc, the turbo chosen is a large trim GT2871R. My main aim with this motor is to maintain drivability and reliability with high power output. I would like to make use of the anti-lag (enabled by a switch on dashboard), launch control and flat shifting features, run direct ignition. I am tempted by the knock control offered by the LinkPlus G3 as the motor will run reasonably high boost (~18 - 22psi) as it provides me some insurance for the money I've spent on the engine. From what I understand about group injection versus sequential injection is that the main difference lies in low engine speeds; where group injection tends to wet the walls of the runner. My main question how much of a difference does sequential injection make to low engine speed drivability, if any? I also notice that the LEM G3 only has a single digital input and two trigger inputs. Using the two trigger inputs for the crank angle sensor and the cam angle sensor leaves no room for ABS sensor connections to detect the wheel speed difference between driving and following wheels; if either LEM or LinkPlus supports this type of sensor for wheel speed detection otherwise I would be required to fit a logic level compatible proximity sensor?. The single digital input would mean that I can't use a clutch switch for launch control and flat shifting, and an anti-lag enable switch at the same time right? So I’m basically looking at maximising what I get from this engine, and I guess I have already answered my question as I haven’t penny pinched on any other area of the engine build. The reason I ask is that the engine builder I am working with advises me that the LEM G3 would do the job I want it to sufficiently well and getting the LinkPlus would be a waste of money, but I’m not sure so I figure its best to hear it from the horse’s mouth. What do you guys reckon, LEM or LinkPlus? Cheers in advance, Mike