Patrick Garvan

We did all this and also found that my laptop wouldn't allow us to download the latest firmware and it was 2 versions old. Bit disappointing on both counts. After much work and fiddling around we finally got it to startup. Now off to Advan for a few days tuning. Looking forward to the finished result.

In the next 2-3 weeks we will install the unit into a pretty highly modded Porsche 944 turbo. Just curious to know what sort of base map material does it come with? It will be put together with a new motor going in but then off to a LINK agent dyno. My mechanic is concerned that he won't be able to start the car and check for all the usual things upon new startup. Nor do I imagine the dyno guys want a completely fresh motor. What about fuel and maps? It is a road/track car and I will of course have to run off normal pump fuel on a day to day basis, but would like to use race or E85 for the track. The octane level of normal pump fuel in Sydney can be pretty unpredictable so I assume I will start with a pretty conservative map for this, but is it just a matter of flicking a switch to use alternative fuel? Do you have to drain the previous fuel out before you do so? I've not had a standalone before so excuse the newbie questions.

Since the Link Dash Display is on Planet Unobtainium can a generic dash display be hooked up?? http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=1082,1079,310&action;=category

Is this for a turbo or n/a car? Just curious.

Looking for a D Display. Link HQ are out of stock for a while and I need one before then. If anyone wants to offload theirs I'd happily pay what you did + shipping to Sydney. T.I.A. Patrick [email protected]

PS if anyone has one you can email me at [email protected] Thanks in advance.

I want a Dash Display asap. I'm in Sydney and will pay a fair price and shipping. I'm open to offers. Patrick

I've contacted Peter Hopkins at Advan in Silverwater and now that he's moved workshops and is settled in he seems keen to help me out. He sounds very thorough and experienced and knows LINK well. Tell me is the Knockblock really just a tuning tool or is it something that should be a permanent fixture to the car's setup?

Oh can you give me a ballpark figure of a days tuning $$? I won't hold anyone to it but is it $300 $800, $2000? I just don't know what to expect.

Yes that is a secondary benefit for sure. It's a nice idea to see what you get for all your money and time invested. At the moment it may be time that has me doing it twice. thx

Well there's a Kiwi guy at Advan Performance who is the only one listed on your site. I have contacted him a few times and they didn't sound overly keen, but they were moving their workshop so I'll give him another try. I would like someone that knows the LINK as that will save time compared to someone that doesn't. I'm surprised that there isn't more than one agent listed for the whole of Sydney. 5 million people now...

Ashley, I am now rather hurriedly going to be installing a G3+ w knockblock system. The exhaust may not be ready in time for the first tunes. Also I am waiting on a custom header set AND change of turbo. My current turbo is reasonably large, but I'm switching to a GT35r. Is it pointless to do some tuning with the older exhaust and turbo or will it allow us to set up some good base maps, and then do some tweaking when the other goods are installed? I am working to a deadline so I may have to do some tuning next week or so before the new mods arrive. thx.

As it says, who's used anyone in Sydney of note? Is it crucial for the dyno operator/tuner to be fully up to speed with Link (G3+, Knockbox etc)? What about if they're not familiar with my type of car? If I'm provided with a base map am I dreaming that they will sort it out in one day? If not, would it be likely that I could drive it home that night to return next day? Sorry for the newbie questions. Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated. thx.

I am looking at getting a new exhaust system going up to a larger size. I have been running a full 3" from turbo all the way back without a Cat, but I have decided to get a removable high flow Cat that I can use on the street, but change out for a straight pipe for the track. What I'm wondering is how much difference can I expect in a/f's and Egt's etc? I realize that this is way to open a question but at a guess is this something I would need to dyno test and make a different map for, or could I just play with the a/f's and watch the egt's? To explain a little further. I currently am running a MAF with chips and piggyback. I can also use an SMT6 to tune the a/f's and timing. Once I get my new motor later in the year I will be using the G3+. Any advice is welcome.

Thanks Ashley. I'm in discourse now with David and Dave McGrath in the US. He is the front engined Porsche representative for Neil. I just don't want to tread on Neil's toes either as he is both my engine builder and apparently the LINK agent in the US or So-Cal at least. I won't discuss costs but I believe that they're much cheaper here than the US? That's a first for Porsche stuff let me tell you! I need to find out what ignition and size of injectors and other stuff too. This may not be known just yet as this is an original project in part. thx

Hi David, thx for reply. The E85 is 85 ethanol and 15% of some other more regular fuel. It works very well for turbocharged cars. Has an approx oct of about 115. You need to use about 30% more fuel so we have to run bigger injectors and maybe two fuel pumps. Possibly change the fuel lines and any other rubber components too. The issue for us in Australia is that race fuel is about $5 per litre which is approx $19 per gallon! The E85 will be approx $4 per gallon so you can see why we are interested. The engine is breaking new ground for the little Porsche 944 turbo world and will have some totally custom parts on it. We don't know the hp tq levels yet. Anticipating over 700hp. The companies building the motor are Performance Developments in Costa Mesa Cal. and Custom Engineered Performance outside of Chicago. Neil Harvey of PD is ex BMW F1 when they won 2 world championships and he will be doing the bulk of the build and mapping. He is apparently the agent for LINK in his part of the world. They will use 93 pump to get me some street maps, and were going to use race fuel, but maybe do E85 depending on what we turn up in research. It will be the G3+. The reason that I was going to buy it in Sydney, Australia was that it's way cheaper here, and it may help my relationship with the tuning outfit that I'd work with here. I assume that the maps that they do in the US won't be 100% perfect due to fuel differences so will probably need some minor tweaking. Anyway, long story, but thx for any advice. Feel free to email me too if that is more convenient. Patrick [email protected]

Again a newbie question, but I am very interested in getting my new motor to be able to run E85. Not as the main type of fuel, but as my choice of track fuel. It is due to be on sale in Sydney in 2008 at approx. $1 per litre and when you consider race fuel is about $5 per litre you can see just why it is so attractive. You can advance timing by at least 5 to 7 degrees if not more, by all reports but it needs approx. 30% more fuel to run properly. So can I assume that the G3+ can run at least 2 maps and as you have to have larger injectors and possibly 2 fuel pumps, is there any potential issues when just running the street map for say 98oct pump? Can anyone outline whatever else I should be thinking of? This motor is getting built and tuned in the US before being shipped out here so we believe that they can tune the road map on their 93 pump which should be pretty close to our 98oct, and do a race map for the E85 which should be pretty much the same too. Any thoughts there too? Also, I have been advised to use Advan Automotive in Sydney for further tuning when it gets here. I have contacted them a number of times and they don't seem interested in my project. I was going to buy the complete system from them too, but again no interest. Does anyone have any advice as to where to go in Sydney for Link expertise? Thanks in advance. Patrick

Thanks Ashley. Yes pretty silly question of mine but if you don't ask etc... I like the idea of the onboard barometric pressure and intake air correcting. What does it use to measure the intake air with? I currently have an MAF kit, chipset, and piggyback and can use an SMT6 to tune with. Not a bad system out of the box, but ultimately lacking some of the features of a properly set up LINK G3+. I initially selected the current system over standalone as I had heard the stories of people spending countless hours and dollars on the dyno and that doesn't turn me on. I want to set the car up so I can just drive it on the street from time to time but the focus is for the racetrack and don't want to be doing hour upon hour of datalogging and re-tuning. I just want to drive the car. Of course I realize that there will be some tuning to do but I am hoping that we cut to the chase pretty quick and don't need to constantly alter the settings. I'm hoping that this is absolutely possible. Thanks again, Patrick

I have a 1989 Porsche 944 turbo. This is stock 2.5ltr. I am having a highly modified 3.5ltr motor built and my engine builder is keen on using LINK G3+ and the Knock Box for protection. This will be built in the US and shipped to me in Australia. I am doing some research on whether I can ship some of our local 98 oct. fuel and maybe some 102 Shell WR race fuel also so they will have the two fuels I use. If that is not possible and they tune on their local 93 pump gas will I have to do much extra or fine tuning when it gets back to me? They have different oct ratings and our 98 is meant to be closest to their 93. How good is the Knock box in terms of protection? Our stock Porsche system even from back then was very good and could pull timing and boost if needed? I am being told that you don't tune up to knock then just dial it back a notch as this doesn't allow for bad fuel or altitude changes etc. I'm not sure if it's politically correct to ask in here, but anyway, why should I choose LINK over other brands? I am not unhappy to use LINK but I really don't know either way. My builder is the US agent for LINK so I guess that's a good thing. lol Anyway if anyone can give me a few ideas or impressions I would be grateful. Thanks in advance, Patrick