Brad Burnett
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Posts posted by Brad Burnett
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2 hours ago, Zeb said:
Plugs are gapped at .28 I was wondering about the optical being an issue as well. Figured we'd try the wheel and then if that didn't do it just bite the bullet on one of those $500 trigger kits. The log file I sent was revving the car in neutral. It happens just the same on the dyno.
it's Paul Chamberlin's new car (Wiseconcepts) I think you two know each other.
Yes sir. I know Paul from back when he lived in texas many moons ago. I spoke with him on the phone a hour or so ago. The aem disc wont fix an optical issue at all. Let me review the cal and log and ill get back with yall.
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How much boost and what is the plug gap?
And an aem trigger wheel will not fix the problem if the issue is the optical pickup. Ive been down that road a few too many times.
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The only things in the cluster that is CAN based is the coolant temp and some of the small indicator lamps.
You should be fine with most everything else.
I have done both the altezza plug in and link wire in unit on multiple IS300s with factory cluster.
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ITB balance issues are the most common issues i see with starting and idling issues, Most people never touch them.
I also run an ITB 1st gen 1uz.
Buy a couple sets of these:
Just make sure that all the balance tubes are disconnected so the throttles arent pulling from other cylinders.
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Are you running ITBs? If not there is no reason to have load set to TPS in most cases.
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Wiring is correct as described, just make sure that the 12v source on 85 is switched with key.
Set up general purpose out put as IGn8 and switch conditions to Map > X.
I would add conditions to secondary fuel pump to include if the primary pump is on, differential fuel pressure < Y, Inj duty>Z, etc.
You can get creative with adding different logic to trigger the second pump.
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does it lose the signal or is it just going lean off the selected scale due to over run fuel cut?
Maybe configure the autotune to disregard any value that is occurring on overrun?
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Is the fire ring/valve seat for the WG valve in place between the WG and the manifold? That is the main reason I can come up with for had boost now you dont.
And adding springs will not fix a creep issue. That is an issue caused by too small of a gate or poor wastegate priority. Id bet on priority as you have a 66mm gate.
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Ive come into this issue many times. But I rarely have the ecu calibrate the TP main/sub values.
Just manually work the throttle blade with the power connection disconnected and record the min/mx values for TP main/sub.
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I would recommend a retune. You will 100% need to resync the ignition.
I have gotten by with a simple copy and paste all the pertinent data.
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I may be incorrect, but from the last convo I had with Adam regarding this exact scenerio(2jz w/ altezza pnp), I recall him telling me to just wire both sensors to the same input pin and just adjust your gains as necessary.
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Just set it as a GP input with a range of 0-100. 0 being full left, 50 straight ahead, 100 full right.
Thats how i did it in G4x. But then i added a math block on top to subtract 50 from value to end up just as you desired, -50 to 50.
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Simple question.... (I do play with a ton of ITB's)
Were the throttles sync'd at idle?
I find that most lambda issues with ITB cars is that a lot of people dont bother to sync the throttles. This is typically apparent at low openings as you have mentioned.
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When I still had my 280z I used a crank trigger kit from these guys with good success.... https://www.racetep.com/
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For tps you will want a 3uz from a tundra or sequoia. They are a direct replacement for the ae111 black top tps. And available at most parts stores.
Ive played maxon motor games and have a couple in a drawer. You can also stack the planetary gear sets for better drive ratios if necessary. But in the application where I was aiming to use a maxon motor, i just ended up with a billet ATPower unit.
For my Black top throttles on my beams motor, i just used the e46 bmw M3 actuator, works fantastic.
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Did you sync the triggers?
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1 hour ago, Whiterabbitrexy said:
Curious I haven't seen this anywhere on subaru forums That AEM wideband 02 sensor have terrible analog outputs? And confused what u mean by analog outputs? It works on voltage output signal and send to ecu ? I've seen heaps of 600hp STI with AEM Wideband and never reported a problem ?
There is normally a slight discrepancy from what the aem uego gauge will show vs what is seen in the ecu. You can fudge the 0-5v curve in the ecu to get it closer, but there will still be a slight discrepancy.
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23 minutes ago, MGV101 said:
Won't the lower voltage on Ign 5 effect the operation of the solenoid and require a higher duty cycle as a result? Tuning on the car had already been done, won't this require a retune of the boost control?
boost solenoid aux operation drives to ground, so positive voltage level will have no effects.
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Are you basically seeking the unlock code for the ecu?
If so, in your situation, you will need to get with Link HQ NZ and supply the serial number(should be on end of ecu) and they can try to help you sort that out.
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yes the snake trail will show you were the over run area of the ignition table is. Typically i would expect something in the region of 30-35 deg on over run while not trying to sound like a fart box. I would drop that down to to sub 10 deg, maybe into the negatives if you really want some spicy farts. Its all about getting the fuel mix to combust in the exhaust.
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turn overrun fuel cut off and subtract timing in the overrun area of the ignition map
And yes it does get annoying.
SR20DET Timing Sync Problem Stock CAS
in G4x
Posted
Adam, I spoke with the owner of the car yesterday and discussed eliminating the ignitor and going with readily available 350z coils.