Brad Burnett

I see the "hiccup" at 2:25. There is a battery voltage fluctuation immediately before that. And the injector pulse width drops in that area as well.

could you please attach the corresponding .pclr file?

What fuel equation are you running, Traditional or Modelled? What Adam was saying was, from the base calibration, you should have only needed to adjust the Master fuel value in the fuel setup tab if in traditional mode. If youre running the modelled equation, you would adjust the fuel injector size value in the injector setup tab. Doing this would have got you running fairly close without the need to touch the values in the main fuel table. Pending how far along you are with the tuning, maybe take a step back and start from square one to reduce the amount of plugs you need to buy?

Outside closed loop control range. If the rpm hangs to high it won’t try to correct.

did not even think about this. but ive got money on this.

Please put a modified spark plug wire between the ignition coil and spark plug and try again. Basically cut off the end that would go to the coil, strip back about an inch, fold the stripped section over and shove into coil, then electrical tape into place. Attach timing light to plug wire. This is a more accurate method of attaching a timing light. Also i believe that your retard amount may be doubled due to the multiple spark from the wasted setup.

gonna need to elaborate a touch here my friend. What vehicle? What sensor? Is it a 2 or 3 wire? Example: a ton of toyota 3 wire sensors are pin 1 12v pin2 ground pin 3 signal.

@Mr2@villela 1: Did you resync/verify the ignition timing after all was reassembled? 2: Did you make any adjustments for the double capacity fuel system?

cool .. Was trying to get ideas for my turbo/rewire thats about to happen. The idea of a maf sensor for this very purpose was on the table. But id be concerned with maxing it out in the turbo application as im not going to be running any huge pipes.

Davidv is 100% correct in this. You will primarily only see zero advance at idle and the primary reason for this lack of oil pressure to move the cam. On subaru applications, you will also see zero advance at the top end of the rpm scale as it makes the most power on stock cams. Once you go to aftermarket cams with more lift and duration, then you will find that you advance the cams to keep the power climbing with RPM. Aside: Davidv, was this a motor that only had VVT on the inlet cam? Was it a turbo motor?

@barge is this some wild engine build with high compression, high lift cams and large valves?

Ive tuned a large amount of AVCS subarus. There is no point to degreeing the intake cam as it is variable and will move via the ecu, so its best to just adjust on the dyno as you tune the motor in. Im pretty sure that the setup of doing the "Cam angle test" to find the correct offset value for each cam is what you are after. I dont know what cams you are using to be concerned with "poor quality control" but I never ran into said issue with the majority of the aftermarket cams I ran in subarus. IE Kelford, GSC, BC, etc. You can degree the exhaust on the stand as you wish.

But you also have a rather hefty idle open percentage commanded via the ethrottle table at 5% and then the 2% additional via the idle speed base table. Maybe start by zeroing out the top end of the idle base table and adjusting your ethrottle table to get stable idle with minimal closed loop feed back.

May want to post a copy of your calibration so we can see if theres anything strange.

I know there are a couple threads on this site with documentation for retrofitting a 300zx plug in into a r32-34. @Adamw will definitely have the pin configuration changes needed.

base map is in the link g4+ file on your computer from the software download. Help file in the software has set up instructions for the microtech ltc display and i know if you search ecumaster on this forum you should find the egt set up

@Adamw @Simon would either of you guys be able to offer a definitive answer on this subject?

if you arent using the hold power, the drive can be configured as ignition. merely a wiring pinout change.

Last time i had similar issues, the voltage regulator was on the way out. Car was driving fine down the highway and then the entire cluster took a shit, car still drove fine and the all. Then not long after that it just shut off from draining battery.

Ls1 coils will work but they can be large, bulky, and need remote mounting with plug wires. As far as laptops go, just about any PC will work pending its XP or newer. I have used a variety of stock toyota coils with coil on plug conversions, it just depends on what fits the application. Heres a link with a variety of different toyota coils https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide/ And heres a link to a large variety of coils from different manufactures testing output power.

As Cj said, there is no comms between ecu and airbag system on 2005 MY subarus. You will need a better scanner to read it. I would assume maybe a sensor got unplugged and is causing the fault. As for the dash error, yes the canbus is unhappy but it is only for display functions such as temp gauge and tacho. 2005 was the first year that subaru implemented CAN into the legacy/liberty models. But it is very limited and I wouldnt sweat it. Maybe just add some gauges for the details you would want to see such as coolant temp, oil pressure/temp, and RPM. I at one point had used a 07wrx plugin on a 2010 wrx drivetrain. The I/O is all the same, just didnt have proper dash functionality.

Did you do a store when you changed over to direct spark? Im not 100% on this with link, but i know some ecu manufactures will require the power to be cycled after a large change such as wasted/distributed to direct spark. Try a store(control+s or f4) then try power cycling the ecu.

Its just a solenoid that you want active while vehicle speed is less than X.

I had no idle valve before i went to DBW and i didnt have any issues with idle control or stalling. You may be forced to run a slightly higher idle speed but its very doable.

If you already have a guy that did the tuning, why not just have him fix the idle/stalling issues?