Brad Burnett

Krohelm, he has an issue with trigger one. Even if you have an issue with trig 2 you will still get an rpm reading.

Adamw, he is most likely using a Aquamist HSF2/3/4 system. I have used tons of the alky/meth injection systems and have never had an issue with what style of rev limiter I used. It sounds to me like his rev limiter is just set up to be pretty aggressive. If he tones it down and does more of a "OEM" style rev limit it will reduce the bangs he is referring to.

could you post your .pcl file so we can look at all the trigger settings? I believe you may have over looked something as those numbers and settings you listed should be correct, but the offset will need to be adjusted once running to make sure the timing is syncd.

What are you using for transmission control?

They both contain the same data. Hp tuners just has a different format when compared to EFI Live. So to make it easier to just copy and paste, ID was kind enough to supply both data sets to ease your copy and paste adventures.

You are going to need to be a bit more clear. What ecu do you have? I'm going to assume it will be going into a 2005 Subaru STi. What market? What engine? Please elaborate a bit more on, "I purchased a male connector that will fit directly into the supplied "wideband' 4 pin female end on the ecu"

Post your pclink cal file and a log showing what is going on. We will need to see those in order to better assist you.

Just out of curiousity, Scott asked about fuel pump operation and pressure. Did you ever check into that? No fuel pressure will largely impact how much fuel makes it into the motor.

Have you looked at any of the base calibrations that are included in the software download? I know the v7-9 and v10 Subaru cals have good starting points for the avcs Subaru engines.

I find that 04-06 Subaru pedals are all over ebay for around $40-50 US. A while back I modified a Greddy manifold for SR20 with a Subaru flange to suit DBW sti throttle body.

I have done this before. Only thing you have to do.is change the pinout.

Adamw, IF that was some erroneous tooth on trig 2, why does the polarity seem to change from the typical tooth to the erroneous one?

With a blue G4+ Storm, I would pair the injectors and run the motor in semi sequential. But as for get the best ecu for what you have available, I would look into either a storm black, fury, or Xtreme as these will allow you to run full sequential fuel and ignition and have much more useable functionality. Brad

Primary differences are hardware. Firmware is the same so: 1 yes it can support both traditional and modeled fuel. 2 The fuel table values may change regarding sequential or batch injection, but that is typically a setting that would be configured before tuning.

There are entirely to many variables for idle so with out seeing a .pcl file or a scope trace everyone would be shooting in the dark. Possible that the idle ignition table is active with weird settings?

What motor is this off of? To make a Subaru v7-9 trigger mode work, you would need to remove some teeth off the cam gear. You will need 2 teeth left that are 90 degrees apart. would need to consult with the Subaru gear to make sure they are in the right spots. Is this thing VVT?

solenoid 1 is just an on off solenoid solenoid 2 is the pwm idle control valve

last one I did had an offset of 0. But you will still need to check it with a timing light to make sure its stable and doesn't drift.

the older nissans had a typical IACV solenoid as well as an idle up solenoid to add air for extra load (ac, ps, elec.) yes both get +12v switched and an aux out. you really only need the PWM solenoid which will have an adjuster screw on it and a 4 bolt flange to bolt to the manifold. The one with the adjuster is a pwm valve while the other is just on or off. you want the main one with the adjuster.

Pieter, I have been using the Map load for the fuel equation on quite a few ITB motors with great results. Even the beams with the ITB still has a pretty stable Map reading. Honestly, you can get to the end result both ways. Its just a matter of preference.

As far as the triggering goes: I have a sxe10 beams engine in my car. Low rpms cranking, I have the trigger 1 arming threshold at .3, which I believe is the base value in the altezza base cal. I have had zero issues with triggers on my engine. If you are having triggering issues, it could be a voltage issue. As Adamw said, I would start off with one of the maps provided and adjust the master fuel until you get it lit off and running while warm.

Even when I set up dual boost tables that do not interpolate between each other, I always have the wastegate tables the same and the only difference is the target tables.

I had a look through the map. Connect a vac hose to your map sensor and drop the attached cal file in, should help point you in the right direction. I dropped in my cold start fuel settings and adjusted your fuel table a hair. You may need to tweak the master fuel mult as I run modelled eq. Changed the load axis on your timing table from MAP to TPmain You had the max clamp on the IACV set way low like 15 or something. changed that to 90% Didn't make many other changes other than changing load equation to MAP instead of BAP. ( I know the manual says BAP for itbs but Ive tried both ways and its way easier to deal with as MAP with load axis on the fuel and ignition tables as TP.) corollafuelmainup2ndattemptwarmVVTon Brad.pclr

SO has the issue with the G4+ Xtreme red been solved? I ask cause I have one and have not experienced said issues with the trigger scope. Granted, my unit has been on a shelf for a little less than a year and is not running the newest firmware.

PJM, Sounds like you may need an ignitior as Simon said. Not that many waste spark coils with internal ignitors.