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Brad Burnett

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Everything posted by Brad Burnett

  1. you need to sync the timing between the motor and the ecu to start. Open the PCLink software. Click on help, -> contents, -> tuning functions, -> triggers, -> Calibrate. This will explain how to sync the timing. I would recommend verifying that the distributor is locked down securely and not move it afterwards. In some small cases, it is possible to have the rotor phase angle set poorly. In this situation the spark can jump from the rotor button to the incorrect cap tower. To rectify, it is best to set the motor to roughly 15-20 degrees BTDC and adjust distr
  2. regardless of what base map you start with, you will need to configure all I/O to match your application. You will still need to calibrate all fuel and ignition settings for your specific engine. Did you set the base timing? Most base calibrations are solely intended to be used to get the vehicle started and onto the dyno.
  3. I would set your wastegate tables to have target boost on the y axis as opposed to MGP.
  4. sensor pin 1 is signal pin 2 is sensor ground
  5. the 2.0 diagram that you posted the pic of seems to be a usdm non avcs diagram?
  6. Ive seen all the variations of subaru avcs. a)The early 2.0L variant that had crank sensor, cam sensor, and the 2 avcs cam angle sensors b)Then the later 2.0 and 2.5L single avcs had crank sensor and the 2 avcs cam angle sensors c)lastly the quad avcs motors. in variant a) you would wire crank to trig 1, cam to trig 2, and avcs sensors to di 1 and 2 variant b) crank to trig 1, lh avcs to trig 2, rh avcs to a di channel 1-4 variant c) you need not worry about in your case.
  7. If you are going with the r8 coils, you would really be better off getting a Storm at minimum. You can make the r8 coils work with the atom but it will be configured as wasted spark and semi sequential fueling. Also with an atom on a turbo car, you are going to consume every bit of I/O and wish you had just ponied up for a larger ECU from the start.
  8. DBW will be dependent on board revision. AVCS, oil and fuel pressure shouldnt be an issue once you shuffle the I/O around. Turbo speed will work if you get a frequency divider as it will get higher than the digital input will allow.
  9. Dwell is controlled by ecu as the toyota ignitor is just a standard dumb ignitor. Very similar to the celica ST185 coil and ignitor. I would copy settings from the base cal for the st185 which has a dwell of about 4ms.
  10. The subaru Base calibrations stop with the 2007 GD chassis as that is all the newest plug in unit. They never proceeded further and reverse engineered the CAN for ABS and DCCD.
  11. Oh i read it correctly the first time.
  12. i take it you are not one to think outside the box? Because i can guarantee you that you can make it work either which way you wire it. Will it be the most convenient? Not always the case. But you can make it work. Just to add, I prefer the outputs wired to their respective cylinders and configured in the software to what it needs to be. I.E. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc. But just because its inconvenient, doesnt make it wrong.
  13. I can totally understand your point here, but I wouldnt call it "wired incorrectly" as there are a number of different ecu manufacturers that actually recommend that you wire the ignition/injection out puts in the firing order. Say with a 1-3-4-2 4 cylinder, out put 1 to 1, output 2 to 3 and so on. As long as the installer and calibrator know whats going on it will work, it may just create confusion for others down the line.
  14. Seriously though, i have had a couple sw20s come through my hands that had the large power wire to the engine bay fuse box literally corroded through.
  15. I find this odd. I have done several plug in ecus on the hondas and other makes. I havent seen any instance of the link ecu interacting with the AC fan speed. Only thing i can think of is that the actual ac controls are faulty. I may be wrong, but there is usually a resistor pack on the blower motor that handles this.
  16. On the sw20 mr2 chassis, ive had issues with the main power wire corroding where it meets the fuse/relay box in the back left corner of engine compartment. I would start there. this is where the power the the ecu is taken from. Basically you just need to follow the power from the battery back to the ecu, checking voltage levels along the way. I have a feeling you will find significant voltage drop at that last box.
  17. Im not famous in the slightest but have a good bit of experience with the link platform and the 3sge beams that i run in my own personal car. Where are you located? And there is a base calibration in the software pack which should get a stock engine up and running with minimal effort.
  18. I would disconnect all sensors then check what your 5 volt looks like then crank the car as you attach each one back.
  19. Can you plug the V44 back in and get everything back to working?
  20. I have had issues in the past trying to calibrate the TP. Ive had success in those times by just manually entering the values that I would achieve without doing the auto cal.
  21. Have you input the unlock code for the new ecu?
  22. If the MAP reading at key on engine off is close enough (+/- 5kpa) to the baro the ecu will let you calibrate the map sensor and you "should" be fine that way. But me personally, i would take the time to set up a custom cal table with the specific data for the sensor.
  23. Did you happen to also count the teeth on the secondary trigger wheel(trigger 2) while in there?
  24. I would start by pulling the dizzy cap and rotor off and snap a pic. I have encountered dizzys in the past that had funny patterns stock and not just the 24 and 1. Seen some 12 and 2, 24 and 4, etc.
  25. If you are doing a tgv delete, just use the tgv wiring. I have done it that way many times with no ill effects.
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