Brad Burnett

Dwell is controlled by ecu as the toyota ignitor is just a standard dumb ignitor. Very similar to the celica ST185 coil and ignitor. I would copy settings from the base cal for the st185 which has a dwell of about 4ms.

The subaru Base calibrations stop with the 2007 GD chassis as that is all the newest plug in unit. They never proceeded further and reverse engineered the CAN for ABS and DCCD.

Oh i read it correctly the first time.

i take it you are not one to think outside the box? Because i can guarantee you that you can make it work either which way you wire it. Will it be the most convenient? Not always the case. But you can make it work. Just to add, I prefer the outputs wired to their respective cylinders and configured in the software to what it needs to be. I.E. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3 etc. But just because its inconvenient, doesnt make it wrong.

I can totally understand your point here, but I wouldnt call it "wired incorrectly" as there are a number of different ecu manufacturers that actually recommend that you wire the ignition/injection out puts in the firing order. Say with a 1-3-4-2 4 cylinder, out put 1 to 1, output 2 to 3 and so on. As long as the installer and calibrator know whats going on it will work, it may just create confusion for others down the line.

Seriously though, i have had a couple sw20s come through my hands that had the large power wire to the engine bay fuse box literally corroded through.

I find this odd. I have done several plug in ecus on the hondas and other makes. I havent seen any instance of the link ecu interacting with the AC fan speed. Only thing i can think of is that the actual ac controls are faulty. I may be wrong, but there is usually a resistor pack on the blower motor that handles this.

On the sw20 mr2 chassis, ive had issues with the main power wire corroding where it meets the fuse/relay box in the back left corner of engine compartment. I would start there. this is where the power the the ecu is taken from. Basically you just need to follow the power from the battery back to the ecu, checking voltage levels along the way. I have a feeling you will find significant voltage drop at that last box.

Im not famous in the slightest but have a good bit of experience with the link platform and the 3sge beams that i run in my own personal car. Where are you located? And there is a base calibration in the software pack which should get a stock engine up and running with minimal effort.

I would disconnect all sensors then check what your 5 volt looks like then crank the car as you attach each one back.

Can you plug the V44 back in and get everything back to working?

I have had issues in the past trying to calibrate the TP. Ive had success in those times by just manually entering the values that I would achieve without doing the auto cal.

Have you input the unlock code for the new ecu?

If the MAP reading at key on engine off is close enough (+/- 5kpa) to the baro the ecu will let you calibrate the map sensor and you "should" be fine that way. But me personally, i would take the time to set up a custom cal table with the specific data for the sensor.

Did you happen to also count the teeth on the secondary trigger wheel(trigger 2) while in there?

I would start by pulling the dizzy cap and rotor off and snap a pic. I have encountered dizzys in the past that had funny patterns stock and not just the 24 and 1. Seen some 12 and 2, 24 and 4, etc.

If you are doing a tgv delete, just use the tgv wiring. I have done it that way many times with no ill effects.

the timing lock is for the trigger calibration setup. Have you calibrated the triggers? You will want the current setting of "multitooth" not the 3sge vvti setting. Your log has the trigger errors maxed at 255 and spikes from a nice cranking rpm to north of 7k rpm. Try calibrating the triggers and see what you get. I like to calibrate with fuel mode set to off and trigger lock at 0 degrees.

Pretty much anything is possible. Yes the vanos is controllable.

I second the compression test. If you have tried swapping coils and injectors around with no success it is possible that it is a mechanical issue.

set the idle stop on the throttle body so at warm the idle is just below idle target with no idle valve operating.

but you have 2 DI's set to ac request, DI 3 & 6. From the log, DI3 isnt doing anything. Id say turn DI3 to off and set engine fan 1 "on with AC" to off.

Thats not what im saying. The warmup and crank enrichment values are percentages applied to the main fuel table. As Adam said, you will really dial these in after the main fuel table has been fully calibrated. But adjusting the injector scaling initially will get you in the ballpark. For Injector scaling, I hardly ever have them exactly set to what they are said to be. I adjust the value to get the outcome i want while keeping the fuel table within a usable range(in modelled mode the max fuel table value is 150.) If you find that you are maxing out the fuel table, you can scale both the injector size and the fuel table by the same percentage to get more resolution. When you say you have to double the "injector VE" value, are you refering to the value in the main fuel table?

Thats not what im saying at all. you have some set up in the ac/fan area that needs addressing. But as far as the hiccup is concerned, a sudden voltage drop will cause similar effects.

your fans kicked on right before the voltage dip. My car makes a similar hiccup if the fans kick at low rpm causing a voltage drop. Not sure why you have 2 DI's set as AC request. But they are opposing so its always trying to run the AC? Compressor clutch is always engaged, or at least thats what the log shows. Might have something to do with why its also running so cold and the fans are cycling.