steveb

I've had it suggested that the OEM Mk1 MX5 cam angle sensor triggering system is in-sufficient and I'd need a crank trigger wheel to sort this out? I notice in the G3 trigger setup page it also lists MX5 OB2, is this the mk2 setup that has an OEM trigger wheel? If so, if I bolt on the setup from the mk2 will this work?

I've just rewired my Eunos to use toyota COP's, changed settings to direct ignition, all 4 ignition channels are set to ignition, put appropriate dwell times in. Turned the key and it started, but only running on 1&2. Used the ignition test function and 1&2 fire fine, no life from 3&4. I checked wiring for continuity ecu plug to COP plug and all fine, checked ground and power all fine. I'm a bit stumped, it appears to be a software problem as it appears although the ecu should be firing channels 3&4 it isn't. Any suggestions? cheers Steve B

Any ideas? Its really annoying having to route around under the dash to unplug the display every time I want to connect the laptop.

I have just found that if I have my Link Display plugged in and try to plug my laptop in then the laptop can't find the ECU. If I unplug the Display and try again the Ecu is found all ok. Is there a solution to this, I don;t really want to be unplugging the display each time I want to make ecu changes? Thanks Steve

I just bought a display link to plug into my G3, I want to totally remove my instrument cluster and use the diaplay instead. I've been told problem may arise with the lack of an odometer, as it maybe a requirement for MOT for a road car, I also currently have a mechanical speedo, I can get a digital sender form a later model car so getting a speed signal i've not been worried about. Is there an way a G3 + display combo can record mileage? If not do you know of a simple odometer solution? thanks Steve 1997 Mazda Eunos Turbo G3 + Link Display

Got it working, thanks for the help. Had to reverse the LC-1 output.

ok i'll take another look thanks.

I can't get this working, I've moved my wideband to AN1 with voltage points reversed as (5v as voltage point 1 and 0 as voltage point 2) described (why does it need this doing?), when logging it correlates with my WB gauge so all fine. With CLL OFF the cars fine but if i enable CLL it tries to make it run too lean, I'm only allowing it 10% change from the map as its very close anyway, but for idle for example it goes straight to -10% and takes AFR to 16:1. Altering the dither voltage in the cll menu doesn't make any difference, so any suggestions? thanks Steve

never mind, realised i need to hit enter, not click to next box

Hi ashley, i've swaped the volt 1 to wb ~1 and volt 2 to boost adjust, selected cll, selected stoich mode and the other boxes appear. Trouble is say I enter a dither voltage (or anything else for that matter) as soon as i click out of the box it reverts to 0, it won't save any changes. cheers Steve

I've just tried altering the settings on PC link ready to sway the wires over tomorrow and it won't let me store any changes under the CLL menu, I select stoich mode on but then can't edit anything?

Ok, so how do I do this setup, do the LC-1 calibration the opposite way round with LM Programmer or in PC link swap voltage points A & B or both? P.S what sort of dither voltage should I give for the LC-1 being used for CLL Thanks Steve

I have a boost adjust pot on AN Volt1 and Wide band O2 on AN Volt2 with an LC-1, I'd like to run cll but can't unless I swap boost control to AN2 and loose the Wideband input, bit of a shame really especially with the LC-1 having simulated narrow band. I'd have thought most people would expect CLL as a standard function and spare channels for other applications. I've been happy without it, but having it available but not really practical annoying. I did consider an upgrade to the PLUS, but on a 4 pot it seems overkill, benefits I can see would be sequential injection & the ability to do the above with the PLUS having 6 available inputs, but then I'd loose the on-board MAP sensor, so basically not worth it for the extra cost/ hassle involved, the ecu, fitment & an external MAP sensor being required. For a 4 cylinder car thats been converted to turbo from normally aspirated the G3 LEM is almost perfect,..

Hi guys, I've had my car cut out twice now, once putting my foot to the floor in 5th at 60mph on smooth motorway revs build, boost build then dead - I start coasting and it cuts back in as if it never happened. Then again whilst datalogging 4th gear after flooring it through the gears sudden total loss of power and with in a fraction of a second all normal, the data log looked normal, not near any limits etc. Chatting to a friend he said hes experienced the same. Any ideas, its as if its doing a random hard cuts?

Yep confirmed 8/95 the ECU pinouts totally changed on mx5/eunos/miatas becoming 3 plug and the 2 plugs 26pin & 22 pin that remained the wires were all jumbled up. So the Adaptalinks not so plug & play, going to have to try and compile pin diagrams and un-pick the plugs on my loom and put them all in the pre 8/95 configuration. I guess LINK wasn't aware of this, so wouldn't have an appropriate 8/95 - 12/97 1.8 Eunos pinout diagram?