Adam Grosso

I never had the issue with my laptop and ECU until I upgraded to the newest version of PCLink. I don't have another laptop to try but I will see what i can do. Any word on finding a closed loop mode for a stepper ISC? Adam

I'm running the latest 1.9.2 version firmware. I am also using the latest PC Link 3.4 (as I'm forced to I think with the firmware upgrade) and is it just me or does it crash an awful lot. It crashes every 5-10 minutes and is very annoying. It seems like it just locks up for no reason. Sometimes it does it right when I connect to the Link ECU, while other times it does it after 10 minutes of use while I'm navigating to a different section within the application. Is it just me getting this problem? Thanks, Adam

I have an Idle Control 4 wire stepper motor using a Link G2 Plus setup on a Chevy LS1 motor. It is wired up to Aux Channel/Output 1. When I go to the Idle Speed Control setup in PC Link I do NOT get the option for OPEN or CLOSED LOOP mode. If I change the Aux Output to ISC Soleniod then I get these options. My question is how do I setup the ISC to work with a stepper motor in CLOSED LOOP mode? It appears that when I select ISC STEPPER as Aux 1, I can only get what woudl be an OPEN LOOP mode. Basicaly i set a step position for a given Engine temp and for an AC request at a given Engine Temp. Does a CLOSED LOOP mode even exist for a stepper motor ISC? Hopefully this will get answered quicker then my last question, which was Dec 2008 with absolutely no replies. But it was only the trigger calibration so it wasn't very important. ha ha ha ha ha And apparently nobody in the US knows crap about settingup these LINK ECU's. So some help would be greatly appreciated. I wonder if the level of frustration I have had with these ECU's is coming across clearly or if any of the sarcasim is giving off the wrong impression? Thanks, Adam

One more thing. I tried figuring out what the actual timing is so I found 0 TDC and marked it. I then changed the Lock to Timing to ON, the timing light was showing 23 degrees AFTER TDC. I then changed that setting to OFF and the CRANK TIMING was 10 BTDC, and checked it with a timing light and saw 13 AFTER TDC. So this tells me that the computer is ~23 degrees late when compared to what the actual top dead center is. But my question is how do I correct this without Physically moving the crank sensor which is impossible? Also, when I changed the CRANK TIMING setting to anything else, I never saw a difference in the reading when using the timing light. So how do I get the CRANK TIMING to affect what I read with the timing light? DO I have to do a store in a certain way, or change the setting and then store and then change the lock to crank timing to off? As I understand it, the computer will fire a TDC when that setting is ON, so how do I get to fire at what the crank timing is set too? Because when it is off the crank timing is greyed out? Thanks, Adam

Hello, Does anybody know where I can buy a pigtail or the electrical connector for the Link 2.5 bar 5V MAP sensor? It's a 7 pin (blades actually) flat rectangular connector. Any info, links, or sellers would be helpful. Thanks, Adam

I also would like to add that I have no tigger errors.

HEEEELLLP. lol I have a Link G2 Plus ECU with a LS1 sub-board fitted. I have an LS1 motor of course. It runs but the timing is VERY retarded. So much so that it makes no power and fuel is not being burnt up in the cylinder. We were running at 28 degrees timing in the chart with this problem. We then changed it to 36 degrees (which is way too much for this motor) and made double the power. So I obviously need calibrate the triggers and timing as it is way off. My question is how do I do this? I have read the calibration steps but how do I actually adjust this? I can't physically change the sensor location on this motor, nor can I change the timing wheel locations. I figured there would be some way to change the setting in the ECU but it doesn't seem to be that way. As I understand it I have to use the "1 Tooth per TDC" trigger mode since I have a G2. The sub board takes the LS1 trigger setup (I beleive 24 tooth crank, 1 tooth cam) and converts it to 1 trigger per TDC. So if I have a timing mark at 0 degrees TDC for cylinder 1 how do I calibrate this. I can go and lock the crank timing to ON and set it at 0 degrees to check if it is correct, but if it is not how do I adjust this. I can set which cylinder fires after the sync position but that is still not a real adjustment. Also, if I only have a timing mark at 0 degrees TDC, will that be an issue for startup since it seems that the Link ECU uses this crank timing under the calibrate trigger menu. Do I need a timing mark at 10 BTDC or can I use the 0 degree TDC mark I have? If the ignition is not firing at either mark I set, how do I adjust for this? Or do I just have to add the value to the ignition table? Like if I find the ignition timing is off by 13 degrees, and I want to set a certain sell to 28 degrees advance, do I actually have to set it to 41? Please help, Adam

Simon, Did you get the email I sent a week ago with the PCLink file in it? I am still having issues as the engine is not starting. I get spark and fuel now but it doesn't seem to be firing or even attempting to fire. Let me know if you got the file or not. Thanks, Adam

I need some help. I have a Link G2 Plus with a Chevy LS1. I have the coils wired up to the fuel pump relay and I'm getting a spark when I turn on the computer and when I start cranking. I heard this is due to the relay activating before the ECU. Not my main problem but how do I fix this? My main issue is that I get no spark at all while cranking and no RPM registered on PCLink. When I crank the fuel pumps turn on like they should. I also get a Trig1 and Trig2 = OK after a second of cranking. I get NO TRIGGER ERRORS either. The funny part is that when I do the ignition test the coils fire. Each test has always fired the correct cylinder and only that one. It sparks like mad until the fuel pumps shut off which in turns the coils off. So the ECU knows how to fire the coils and which ones they are. The triggers are getting something as they turn on the fuel pumps and get no errors. (I also have the latest firmware and PCLink running. My question is, which of the trigger setup options do I choose "LS1 3/12" or "LS1 5/10"? What would cause the coils to work and triggers to work with no errors but to not get any spark during cranking? I wired the entire thing myself and know it very well. So please point me in the right direction. Thank you, Adam

I am having trouble getting my Link G2 Plus to work properly with my LS1. I have everything hooked up and I'm getting ready to start the engine for the first time. I put the trigger setup to LS1 and changed the dwell time toe falling edge instead of rising. (When it was rising I got NO spark at all) Now I only get 1 spark from each plug and then they never fire again. I get a trigger OK message from both triggers. I also get NO trigger errors. The fuel pumps start while I try to start the engine so that is good. I do NOT get any RPM while starting the engine on the PCLink gauge. When I turn the Ignition test on for a particular cylinder, it does spark like crazy. So the coil packs work. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? It is a dwell time or some other setting that I'm not getting right? It seems to be more of a software issue then anything as the coils do work and the triggers are hooked up properly. Please let me know if you guys have any thoughts. Thanks, Adam